/ Who said trad climbing is dying...

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Misha - on 10 Jun 2013
The earlier thread about trad climbing dying off came to mind when we were at Cloggy on Saturday. There were 25+ teams there and a steady stream of people going up Great Wall all day long - so much so that one team didn't manage to get on it at all and had to get up there again on Sunday morning! There was also a bit of a traffic jam on White Slab at one point when one leader took a little while on the crux. Sunday was less busy but there were still at least a dozen teams on the crag. Great to see so many people out and lots of routes being climbed. We figured there would be a few other people there but weren't expecting quite so many! The conditions were great - the rock was dry, it was almost warm even in the shade and hardly a breath of wind. The only annoying thing was the noise from the train! I know a single popular weekend isn't evidence of some kind of resurgence in trad climbing but it's great to see nonetheless.
highclimber - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Misha: We were planning on going up to Cloggy on sunday. kind of glad I didn't now. Hopefully the rain that's due won't ruin the fun to be had! I had a good day at Gogarth though, even if it was a tad warm! mustn't grumble too much though as it's often too wet and/or cold!
ERU - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to highclimber:

> Who said trad climbing is dying...

This guy, called Johnny, reckons "people are farting around and no one's done anything good yet. Modern climbers are too interested in laundry and mortgages."

http://www.vimeo.com/67293102#
The Pylon King on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Misha:

> The only annoying thing was the noise from the train!

What?! the train is wonderful!! :)
MFB - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Misha: Scafell was busy at weekend
Misha - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to highclimber:
What probably have happened is all the people who usually go to Gogarth went to Cloggy instead! Was wondering if it would be to hot there (Gogarth, not Cloggy!). Yes, not often climbers complain about it being too hot! It was much less busy on Sunday. Some of the more popular routes still got two or may be three ascents each but you didn't really have to queue.
Misha - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to ERU:
Yes, an amusing interview. I have a mortgage and my washing machine has broken down, so I guess I tick both boxes at the moment ;-)
puppythedog on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Misha: Quite a few people at Wyntour's on Saturday.
Rachel Slater - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Misha: We were at Cloggy on Saturday! Managed not to queue for anything though :)
Skyfall - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Misha:

Hi Misha - hope the old firm are still paying the mortgage ;) Too hot on a low lying crag yesterday, pretty damn cold on the Mot today. Both good even if I am still trying to forget bolt clipping and remember how to place 'pieces'. I have the excuse of both mortgage and age on my side!
Skip - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Misha:

No evidence of "trad dying" in the South West. I have to go to relatively obscure crags if i don't want to see other climbers.

All the popular crags always have some others on them. Plenty of young trad enthusiasts out there in the SW
Misha - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Skyfall:
Jon, just realised who you are, or rather that you've got a new user name! Yes, they are, just about ;-) Hmmm, sounds like you should have visited these crags the other way round...
Morgan Woods - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Misha:
> (In reply to highclimber)
>Yes, not often climbers complain about it being too hot!

Not true...I heard it all the time in the UK when the mercury cracked 25 degrees!
ericinbristol - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Morgan Woods:

For me that's debilitatingly hot. Anything into double figures is a bit on the warm side. Being from Glasgow may explain it.
Milesy - on 11 Jun 2013
Crags in central Scotland have been really quiet the last 2 seasons. I think a lot of people can't be bothered with changable weather and midges in the summer. The Glasgow Climbing Centre and The Climbing Academy in Glasgow are both packed to the rafters week in and week out.

I was talking to a chap at Auchinstarry who said he was 56 and during the 70s you couldn't move for climbers at Auchinstarry. Said every route was riddled with people. Nice summer days recently and you are lucky to see a couple of teams throughout the full quarry. I have climbed days and nights recently with my partner(s) and I the only people there. Is this because more people have more money and more transport now? But where are they all going then?
Liam Brown - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Misha:

I think we were in this traffic jam on White Slab. Was very small. Just enough time for some water and sweets.

Cromlech was jammed Sunday too. Although we were asleep by the boulders so were on our second route before most people turned.

I think its all fart. I would say well over half the people I saw out were between 20 and 30.

Mortgage is good. Washing Machine sounding clunky.
Enty - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Misha:

Was that the dying on it's arse thread posted in the winter? Mostly refering to crags being empty last summer when it rained every fecking day for 6 months? Sounds silly now doesn't it?

Great to see people getting out and doing it. Were places like Horeshoe quarry and Giggleswick packed at weekend too?

E
Steve Crowe - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Enty:

Karin and I were queuing to get on Cave Route Right Hand in Gordale. Face Route and Ivy Groove saw ascents too!
Rigid Raider - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Misha:

Sorry - I started climbing in at the mid sixties but haven't done much in the last 15-20 years since becoming a Dad. We used to walk up to a crag, climb it with ropes and running belays then abseil off or walk on to the top of the mountain. Is that what you call "trad" and how does that differ from "modern"?
Neil Williams - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Rigid Raider:

"Sport", which involves the belays being fixed bolts, or indoor in climbing walls.

I guess the latter is more popular simply because it exists in far greater numbers than before. And there aren't any midges, and it isn't pissing down, and you can go without leaving your city so if you're darn Sarf an evening's climbing is more feasible.

Neil
ads.ukclimbing.com
Misha - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Enty:
The crappy weather sure was a factor. I didn't get much done last year, partly due to that. I was never really convinced that trad was dying a death. Have heard people saying that trad gear sales and the CC guide book sales were down but again the weather will have had an impact there. Here's hoping we get a decent summer and lots of routes will see lots of ascents.
Darron - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Rigid Raider:

Trad is what you are used too - leader placed protection. Sport is climbing protected by bolts.
Don't worry ......Trad is still the dominant style in the UK!
Darron - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Misha:
I was surprised at how quiet Bamford was on Sunday.
Ramblin dave - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Darron:
I was surprised at how quiet Stanage was on sunday! (Also by how hot and sweaty it was - Kinder on saturday was much nicer...)

Maybe everyone was off at Cloggy...
patrick_b - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Darron:
> (In reply to Misha)
> I was surprised at how quiet Bamford was on Sunday.

I was surprised by how busy Bamford was on Saturday!
Liam Brown - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Ramblin dave:
> (In reply to Darron)
> I was surprised ... by how hot and sweaty [Stanage] was - Kinder on saturday was much nicer...
>

Nice weather. Standard.


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