/ Who said trad climbing is dying...
What?! the train is wonderful!! :)
What probably have happened is all the people who usually go to Gogarth went to Cloggy instead! Was wondering if it would be to hot there (Gogarth, not Cloggy!). Yes, not often climbers complain about it being too hot! It was much less busy on Sunday. Some of the more popular routes still got two or may be three ascents each but you didn't really have to queue.
Yes, an amusing interview. I have a mortgage and my washing machine has broken down, so I guess I tick both boxes at the moment ;-)
Hi Misha - hope the old firm are still paying the mortgage ;) Too hot on a low lying crag yesterday, pretty damn cold on the Mot today. Both good even if I am still trying to forget bolt clipping and remember how to place 'pieces'. I have the excuse of both mortgage and age on my side!
No evidence of "trad dying" in the South West. I have to go to relatively obscure crags if i don't want to see other climbers.
All the popular crags always have some others on them. Plenty of young trad enthusiasts out there in the SW
Jon, just realised who you are, or rather that you've got a new user name! Yes, they are, just about ;-) Hmmm, sounds like you should have visited these crags the other way round...
Not true...I heard it all the time in the UK when the mercury cracked 25 degrees!
For me that's debilitatingly hot. Anything into double figures is a bit on the warm side. Being from Glasgow may explain it.
I was talking to a chap at Auchinstarry who said he was 56 and during the 70s you couldn't move for climbers at Auchinstarry. Said every route was riddled with people. Nice summer days recently and you are lucky to see a couple of teams throughout the full quarry. I have climbed days and nights recently with my partner(s) and I the only people there. Is this because more people have more money and more transport now? But where are they all going then?
I think we were in this traffic jam on White Slab. Was very small. Just enough time for some water and sweets.
Cromlech was jammed Sunday too. Although we were asleep by the boulders so were on our second route before most people turned.
I think its all fart. I would say well over half the people I saw out were between 20 and 30.
Mortgage is good. Washing Machine sounding clunky.
Was that the dying on it's arse thread posted in the winter? Mostly refering to crags being empty last summer when it rained every fecking day for 6 months? Sounds silly now doesn't it?
Great to see people getting out and doing it. Were places like Horeshoe quarry and Giggleswick packed at weekend too?
Karin and I were queuing to get on Cave Route Right Hand in Gordale. Face Route and Ivy Groove saw ascents too!
Sorry - I started climbing in at the mid sixties but haven't done much in the last 15-20 years since becoming a Dad. We used to walk up to a crag, climb it with ropes and running belays then abseil off or walk on to the top of the mountain. Is that what you call "trad" and how does that differ from "modern"?
"Sport", which involves the belays being fixed bolts, or indoor in climbing walls.
I guess the latter is more popular simply because it exists in far greater numbers than before. And there aren't any midges, and it isn't pissing down, and you can go without leaving your city so if you're darn Sarf an evening's climbing is more feasible.
The crappy weather sure was a factor. I didn't get much done last year, partly due to that. I was never really convinced that trad was dying a death. Have heard people saying that trad gear sales and the CC guide book sales were down but again the weather will have had an impact there. Here's hoping we get a decent summer and lots of routes will see lots of ascents.
Trad is what you are used too - leader placed protection. Sport is climbing protected by bolts.
Don't worry ......Trad is still the dominant style in the UK!
I was surprised at how quiet Bamford was on Sunday.
I was surprised at how quiet Stanage was on sunday! (Also by how hot and sweaty it was - Kinder on saturday was much nicer...)
Maybe everyone was off at Cloggy...
> I was surprised at how quiet Bamford was on Sunday.
I was surprised by how busy Bamford was on Saturday!
> I was surprised ... by how hot and sweaty [Stanage] was - Kinder on saturday was much nicer...
Nice weather. Standard.
Elsewhere on the site
This years ROCfest will be slightly different. We've decided to run a Climbing Festival, not just a competition! Over... Read more
Steve Dunning has made what is likely the tenth ascent of The New Statesman, the classic and bold gritstone arete at the Cow... Read more
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more
The release of Peter Jackson's new film The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies on 12th December may not appear to link to... Read more
Climbing Technology’s range of winter hardware continues to grow and for winter 2014 they have a crampon in the range to... Read more