/ Where is the best place for low grade DWS?

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jt232 - on 10 Jun 2013
I'm pretty new to climbing, can comfortable lead about a f5/5+. I tried my first deep water solo the other day, A HS 4b (I think) in the lighthouse area of portland and was totally pysched for more! Unfortunatly it was late and there was a big group of us, so we couldn't get anymore DWS done on the trip. Where is the best places in the UK for DWS of fairly low grade so I can get on some more this summer?
In reply to jt232: Spring boulders, the Roaches
Mark Collins - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to jt232: When you're done at the Roaches, move onto this place:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=221419


...sorry couldn't resist.
jt232 - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Mark Collins: looks terrifying, where is it?
Mark Collins - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to jt232: South Africa according to the link in the bottom left-hand corner of the page displaying it.
Tom Last - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to jt232:

It's spread out.

Most (well many anyway) DWS venues will have one or two easy routes., thus Thus Troubled Waters at Swanage, Connor Cove (HVS reasonably safe, a bit scary).

Crane Wall stuff at Portland.

The Lens area at Swanage.

Bass Point at The Lizard.

The Maypole at Stairhole.

Stuff at Pembroke I believe.

I'd get the Rockfax guide if I were you. All the stuff above is good but tends to be surrounded by harder/scarier/more dangerous stuff. There's lots of undocumented stuff about too.

Good luck!
katherinesydney - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to jt232: Head for South Devon. These ones near Torquay are easy:

Plimsoll Line Traverse - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=112914
The Long Traverse - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=45252

If they're too easy (might be) there's more challenging and excellent stuff at Berry Head. Magical Mystery Tour etc.
katherinesydney - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to katherinesydney: Oh, but at F5+ standard, you might have to swim a bit at Berry Head! :)
Michael Porter - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to jt232: Get yourself the Rockfax DWS Guide, the best places I know for lower grade stuff are below. However DWS is generally better/safer in the higher grades as the added steepness makes for cleaner fall. However there is plenty of safe stuff for you to go at.

Portland - Deep Zawn.... http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=272
Red crane traverse is an excellent starter.

Swanage - Aquanaut buttress, but does require an abseil descent and a Diff climb out, this can be done with a harness and prussuk on the abseil rope... http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=8231

Torquay - London Bridge... http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2341
All the duck routes are easy and something 6a+/b is Freddie the frog hits torquay, safe and not very high.

Toquay - a couple of long easy traverses that are good.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=112914
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=45252

Pembroke - Barrel Zawn... http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=3959
Not been but is meant to be quite good.

When you get a bit more experience in DWS the higher stuff will open up to you at Swanage, Lulworth, Portland and in Devon. Check out a couple of routes for you to aspire to below.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=14951
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=14656
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=164277

Buy the DWS Guide, its well worth it. Enjoy!!

Michael

Michael Porter - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to jt232: Oh yeah, can't believe I forgot, magical mystery tour at Berry Head is awesome!!!
Oceanrower - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Michael Porter:
> (In reply to jt232) Oh yeah, can't believe I forgot, magical mystery tour at Berry Head is awesome!!!

But it does go on a bit!
Tom Last - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Michael Porter:
> (In reply to jt232) Oh yeah, can't believe I forgot, magical mystery tour at Berry Head is awesome!!!

Christ yeah, forgot that too, amazing route.

Must have been a bit of a palaver roped up and bloody hard for HVS too.
Kafoozalem - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to jt232:

Study the Berry Head Coastguard section carefully. I have uploaded several photo topo's. Loads of easy stuff here f2 to 6a. Unlike the main DWS areas of Berry Head it is not bird banned at the moment.
jt232 - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Michael Porter: Thanks man, this is really good stuff!
jt232 - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to katherinesydney: Thanks, and the prospect of a swim is half the fun!

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