/ Where is the best place for low grade DWS?
...sorry couldn't resist.
It's spread out.
Most (well many anyway) DWS venues will have one or two easy routes., thus Thus Troubled Waters at Swanage, Connor Cove (HVS reasonably safe, a bit scary).
Crane Wall stuff at Portland.
The Lens area at Swanage.
Bass Point at The Lizard.
The Maypole at Stairhole.
Stuff at Pembroke I believe.
I'd get the Rockfax guide if I were you. All the stuff above is good but tends to be surrounded by harder/scarier/more dangerous stuff. There's lots of undocumented stuff about too.
Plimsoll Line Traverse - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=112914
The Long Traverse - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=45252
If they're too easy (might be) there's more challenging and excellent stuff at Berry Head. Magical Mystery Tour etc.
Portland - Deep Zawn.... http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=272
Red crane traverse is an excellent starter.
Swanage - Aquanaut buttress, but does require an abseil descent and a Diff climb out, this can be done with a harness and prussuk on the abseil rope... http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=8231
Torquay - London Bridge... http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2341
All the duck routes are easy and something 6a+/b is Freddie the frog hits torquay, safe and not very high.
Toquay - a couple of long easy traverses that are good.
Pembroke - Barrel Zawn... http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=3959
Not been but is meant to be quite good.
When you get a bit more experience in DWS the higher stuff will open up to you at Swanage, Lulworth, Portland and in Devon. Check out a couple of routes for you to aspire to below.
Buy the DWS Guide, its well worth it. Enjoy!!
But it does go on a bit!
Christ yeah, forgot that too, amazing route.
Must have been a bit of a palaver roped up and bloody hard for HVS too.
Study the Berry Head Coastguard section carefully. I have uploaded several photo topo's. Loads of easy stuff here f2 to 6a. Unlike the main DWS areas of Berry Head it is not bird banned at the moment.
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