/ NEWS: The future of bouldering?

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UKC News - on 11 Jun 2013
The Mega project at Fionnay, 5 kbWhat does the future of bouldering look like?
Obviously, this is impossible to know, but let's speculate a bit...
Most seem to agree it's very difficult to see short power problems getting a whole lot harder. There simply seems to be a limit to what physically possible to hang on to, even for...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68120
Ian Bentley on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News: Nalle said some really interesting things on this in the latest DPM mag. Basically that the line between a problem being impossible and being too easy to be the next level is now down to such a hairline that the issue is as much finding a problem that hard as it is actually doing one. (as he says "i have no doubts we're already capable of climbing 8C+")

It makes you wonder with Jan Hojer's yellow problem, whether the worlds hardest will be on plastic? But that kind of feels hollow surely? there's so much rock in the world there must be one out there somewhere... (and there are 3 options suggested in the article.)
Ramon Marin - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News:

I don't quite understand the nature of this debate. Surely, take whatever limits us humans can hold on to (now 8c for what yo saying), making longer and higher. If it becomes too high, then put on a harness and rope, and keep going! Oh wait, that's what Ondra is doing, dah! ;)
Ian Bentley on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Ramon Marin:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> I don't quite understand the nature of this debate.
I don't think there is one. Just some general musings for the fun of it! (nice to have amongst the usual ukc debate filled forums)(not that they're not fun too!)

>Surely, take whatever limits us humans can hold on to (now 8c for what yo saying), making longer and higher.
Indeed, but where to find such a problem with 15 8C moves back to back...?

>If it becomes too high, then put on a harness and rope, and keep going! Oh wait, that's what Ondra is doing, dah! ;)
Does this mean the future of hard bouldering is sport? Maybe...
Niels - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Ian Bentley:

> >If it becomes too high, then put on a harness and rope, and keep going! Oh wait, that's what Ondra is doing, dah! ;)
> Does this mean the future of hard bouldering is sport? Maybe...

It kind of feels as though that phase has been and gone in a sense with Hubble/Violent new Breed etc. May return though, who knows.
cripper - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Ian Bentley:
>Does this mean the future of hard bouldering is sport? Maybe...

and so when sport reaches the same limitations bouldering is now experiencing, we switch to climbing hard sport on trad gear..
Brendan - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Ian Bentley:

Those three problems look incredible, regardless of the difficulty. Especially the Sisu project, what a line.
Bulls Crack - on 13 Jun 2013
In reply to Ramon Marin:

It all sounds very similar to other 'debates' trotted out over the years at regular intervals - just alter the relevant grade!
Deviant - on 13 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Just thinking about it is putting me to sleep !
Double Knee Bar - on 13 Jun 2013
In reply to Deviant: More PEDs should open up a few more grades. At least get us in to that realm of font 9a

;-)
Davros the Psyched - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News:

I find it intriguing that our (well, their) bouldering limits are more likely to be constrained by geology that physical strength. Should boulderers pack a chisel alongside their toothbrush?
Michael Gordon - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to Davros the Psyched:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> I find it intriguing that our (well, their) bouldering limits are more likely to be constrained by geology that physical strength.

What makes you say that? Surely you wouldn't disagree that there will be a limit to what human fingers can hold and pull up on.
owensum - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News:

The future of bouldering is caving. Stalactites!! Although you gotta watch that stalagmite landing zone...
ads.ukclimbing.com
aln - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News: Is that 15 pads under Graham? Does he have a host of beautiful beings to waft them around the worlds top bouldering spots to manifest beneath him when he might need them?

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