/ Czech Republic - knotted slings as gear

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Welly Matt - on 12 Jun 2013
what is the best thing to take to make knotted slings for climbing in these areas where no hardware can be used and there are no bolts?

thanks

Matt
BnB - on 12 Jun 2013
In reply to Welly Matt:

Plenty of slings! :-)
Andy Manthorpe on 12 Jun 2013
In reply to Welly Matt: Old dynamic rope of varying diameter and various widths of tape.
Timmd on 12 Jun 2013
In reply to Welly Matt:

I'm guessing it could be handy to mimic the different sizes you get in nuts and hexes, and make gradually bigger knots?

knighty - on 12 Jun 2013
In reply to Welly Matt:

Monkey fists!!! Just use lengths of static cord. And has been previously suggested, build yourself a rack of fists at different sizes.
Carless - on 12 Jun 2013
In reply to Welly Matt:

A mate went a few years back and bought a whole pre-tied rack for about 8€
humptydumpty - on 12 Jun 2013
In reply to Welly Matt:

Sorry if this is ignorant, but why can't you use hardware in Czech Republic?
ChrisBrooke - on 12 Jun 2013
In reply to humptydumpty: The sandstone is soft and would be damaged by falls onto traditional metal hardware.





And they're hardcore.
jimtitt - on 12 Jun 2013
In reply to Welly Matt: -

Here´s the definitive test for all the usual materials and knots in English:-
http://www.joergbrutscher.homepage.t-online.de/knotene.htm
The rest of his homepage is worth reading if your German is up to it.
ads.ukclimbing.com
gabriel_m on 15 Jun 2013
In reply to Welly Matt:
Was lucky enough to climb with someone who grew up in the Adrspach/Teplice area on his home turf for a few days. Unlike many people's preconceptions, he rarely racked up with any massive monkey fists and instead used much smaller knots or ran it out to the ring bolts.

The principle being that if you're in a crack big enough to need a massive knot then you would have known what you were up against before you left the ground. If you're not up to it, climb something else. Definitely get you crack technique sorted before you go. Interestingly he was more uncomfortable on sections of face climbing, where the ever present sand on handholds and footholds make everything less predictable.

Memorably he scraped out a couple of grams of earth from a tiny crack, untied a 15cm loop of 16mm tape, retied it into a more appropriate shape, seated it carefully and clipped it - all with one hand in about 30 seconds. It wouldn't have been possible to protect that crack without a prodding device. They are essential, seem to remember peoples using shoehorns.

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