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Topic - Home bouldering wall, angles/space etc...

Tom Last - on 12 Jun 2013
Hi all.

I'm after some advice on building an interior bouldering wall.

Basically what I'm asking is which of the two rooms available should I put it in?

I'm moving to a new flat and have a choice of two reasonably sized rooms in which to put it. There are no exposed ceiling joists so the whole thing needs to be free standing.

The two rooms are as follows.

The largest room is about 14x9' whilst the smallest is 12x7' or thereabouts. Both rooms are built into the roof, so part (most) of both their ceilings are angled at about 50 degrees off vertical.

In the larger room the length of the diagonal is about 10'. This runs from low to high across the shortest (9') axis of the room, so the width of the overhang is the full 14'. The remaining horizontal ceiling space is about 18 inches.

In the smaller room, the length of the diagonal is about 7'. This runs from low to high across the longest (12') axis of the room, so the width of the overhang is about 7'. The remaining horizontal ceiling space is about 6'.

So on paper, the larger room looks well, larger! However, given that 50 degrees overhanging is probably not an optimal angle for a small bouldering wall, I'm wondering which room I should choose.

In the larger of the two rooms, as the overhang runs from L-H across the short axis, I will have less space to change to angle to 30 or 45 degrees, although I will be left with a lot of traversing space. Whilst in the smaller of the two room, given that I've got a full 6' of horizontal ceiling space and the overhang runs L-H across the long axis, I can comfortably change the overhang to a more optimal angle, but the overall area will be smaller.

It probably helps if I explain a bit what I want it for. Basically, I want to increase endurance, whilst maintaining strength and hopefully making some gains there too.

I understand that about 30 degrees off vertical is considered best if you're not a double hard bastard and don't want to cover the thing in jugs. On the other hand, since I want to train for endurance (mostly), could I be better off going with the larger room and 50 degree roof and doing longer circuits hauling away on jugs after all? I do think I might get a bit bored with this though. Also, generally if I find myself upside down on a route outside then something's gone very, very wrong - so no need to train for being upside down specifically.

Bouldering, I can sometimes on-sight about 6B+ and climb up to about 6C+/7A. The aim of this wall would be to push this up to about 7B+. So I'd want a range of stuff covering 6A-7B. I also want to increase endurance to enable me to push my trad from very occassional E2 on-sight limit up to E3/4 etc. I dunno what I'll need to set circuit-wise for this.

As for the build of the thing, as I say it has to be self supporting. I'm not exactly the World's greatest builder of stuff, so I'll be keeping the whole thing simple and non- adjustable.

So which room should I go for you reckon and what angle?

I hope that some, at least, of that made sense.

Cheers all!
Tom
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