/ PRODUCT NEWS: EDELRID Introduce the Lightest Karabiner in the World...
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=5530
"An entire rack of 19G quickdraws weighs in at roughly half the weight of the nearest competitor"
A Edelrid 19G quickdraw weighs 45 grams. A Camp Nano 23 quickdraw weighs 53 grams. That requires a pretty loose definition of "roughly" to make the statement above correct.
"The lengthwise breaking load is an impressive 20kN"
20kN is the minimum required breaking load allowed by the UIAA standard. Passing the standard by the smallest possible margin is hardly impressive, is it?
Edelrid: I'm sure you've got a great product here. You shouldn't need this kind of marketing drivel. Stop treating your potential customer as idiots incapable of independent thought - that's just not a very good marketing strategy. Thank you. Rant over.
I touched on these issues when I reviewed the Nanos vs the Phantoms a few years ago http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1155
I bet a rack of 19Gs would be fantastic for certain situations where lightness is the main consideration but I suspect I wouldn't favour them as my 'everyday cragging' QDs. It will be interesting to see them in the shops though!
have had a play in the shops (theyve been out here a couple of months now), very nice as objects. very small - they actually looke fake or like something that should be sold with sigg bottles and sunglasses straps.
not for me tho. tried them with some gloves in the store - not a chance in hell.
Even for ultra-light applications I'd think twice before picking them over Phantoms, however there will no doubt be others who rate the weight saving as more important than usability.
Possibly too small for gear/cam krabs... thats my view.
Not sure how much of them would be left after 10years weekly use, but I'd entertain them when I loose/drop existing rack.
How do they compare in size and handling to the camp nanos? I've been using a set for trad for a while and I love them, although I can see you might not want them for climbing with gloves on either.
I tried these in V12 at the weekend. No good for me I'm afraid, and I've been clipping gear for 40+ years. There was no way I could hold these and open them reliably every time, they regularly spun or slipped out of my hand. I'd hate to think what would happen if I was pumped or gripped! In addition, there are lots of times when it's neccessary to pull on a krab e.g. when stripping a route, and that was just painful as you can't get a 'decent handful'. Finally I think a scale should have been included on the picture really! When I saw them I thought I had accidentally popped into Mothercare! Shame as light (strong) gear is a welcome advance.
I prefer to stick to the phantoms, considering there is no nose shroud - having the biner opened from contact with the rock during a fall is a real concern and I think gate open 7kn is a bit low, the phantoms are 9kn gate open.
ive not used either besides standing in the shop. nanos feel too small (for gloved use) but i think could still be coped with. for summer stuff i think theyd be ok (and no doubt many like them).
the edelrids tho, are 'f*ck me is that real?' small. as said above, if strung out they might be a nightmare.
To be fair, they would be OK for easy alpine routes in the warm where you aren't wearing gloves and can clip while standing in balance.
Er, read it again - I said the phantoms were the leap forwards!
Any hint as to who actually makes them? ie I doubt that Edelrid, a leading rope manufacturer, has actually set up a karabiner production line; they have the clout and the brand to approach any of several (ok, one or two) karabiner manufacturers and have them made to their own specs under their own brand label. I would think the same applies to shoes. Maybe also to Mammut; although they - I think - own Raichle.
should be great for the punter crowd wobbling up VS's.
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