/ Desolation Row/Xanadu Access - Great Zawn

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Rich Kirby - on 14 Jun 2013
Any knowledge on the best approach for the above routes....as for Dream Liberator & jump across zawn or is it possible to ab straight into the gully from the top of the Zawn?
GrahamD - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to Rich Kirby:

We abbed in directly. The jump looks terrifying !
Bulls Crack - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to Rich Kirby:

We abbed in..then for some reason prussiked out...think it was too damp!
The Pylon King on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to Rich Kirby:

Abbed down the back of the zawn - in the corner of the Desolation slab.
In reply to Rich Kirby: Hi Rich - Just ab in from spike above Desolation Row and then down the earthy slope to the boulders underneath the routes. Cheers Mark
johncoxmysteriously - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to Rich Kirby:

The jump's nowhere near as bad as it looks and can even be protected (at least in the sense that if you miss your corpse won't reach the sea as it bounces down that hideous cleft). But that won't get you to the bottom of DR, still less Xanadu, without a tedious downclimb.

But anyway, you just abseil down from the gearing-up ledge on the east side of the zawn (aka the west face; don't ask me why. A bit to the right of the finish of Desolation Row, anyway) as per the guidebook. It's an easy scramble to the ledge across Bosigran Ridge (again as per guidebook, path etc and very obvious). I don't know whether you can abseil all the way down from the top of the zawn (at the back, you mean? Going down Omen?). I imagine you can with a long enough rope, though I don't know about anchors. But the guidebook method is simple enough.

jcm
GrahamD - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I'm sure for Xanadu I used a different abseil approach to DR - practically to the foot of the route.
johncoxmysteriously - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to GrahamD:

I'm sure you could do that, but I had the impression Rich wanted one ab point to do the two routes from.

jcm
In reply to GrahamD:
> (In reply to Rich Kirby)
>
> We abbed in directly. The jump looks terrifying !

I can't believe after all these years that jump is still spooking people. Reverse off the ledge and hand-traverse round the back of the yawn - job done!


Chris
Dan Dyson - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to Rich Kirby:
For desolation row you can scramble over the ridge near the brass plaque and scramble down the other side to the very top of the zawn where amongst some long grass there is a rock spike. Ab off that all the way down the gully, from which you can reach the start of desolation row.
GrahamD - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to GrahamD)
> [...]
>
> I can't believe after all these years that jump is still spooking people.

Seriously ! I've never seriously looked at Green Cormorant Face because I've been physched by the leap (neither has my normal partner who is now climbing much harder than I).

Not thought about reversing round the yawn though :-)
kevin stephens - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to Rich Kirby:
A while ago so my memory maybe not to reliable:

You can ab down near Desolation Row and scramble to Xanadu, but may be just as quick to ab down separately to avoid scramble at top. The top and bottom of the zawn are more awkward than, say, Huntsman's Leap

Xanadu is great but takes a lot of drying out - I wouldn't expect it to be much fun any time soon given recent weather conditions....
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Misha - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to Rich Kirby:
As others have said, go over Bosigran Ridge above the gearing up spot, then take a left almost immediately and skirt a buttress on your left - there isn't really a path there but don't be put off by that. Keep skirting the buttress on your left and you will get to a short down climb (couple of metres) to a large grassy ledge, which is the top out for Desolation Row. Looking ahead with the buttress on your left hand side you will see a spike. A 50m ab rope is sufficient but 60m will get you down all the way to the bottom of Desolation Row (good idea to keep on the rope rather than walking down the grassy sloping zawn bed). A 50m might reach as well, can't remember how much rope we had left. I think you can get to the bottom of Xanadu that way as well, though the rope probably won't reach all the way - but it looked ok to scramble down carefully. A good route, apart from the very overgrown steep grass top out!

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