UKC

So who's contributed to the NW bolt fund?

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 kevin stephens 14 Jun 2013
With 410 posts and 14,549 views (so far) on the Rockfax North Wales guide post there is clearly a great deal of interest in supporting the fund, but this being UKC and me being (maybe a touch too) cynical I wonder how many folks have put their hands on their pockets, especially since the other thread started?

I have backed off a few NW sports climbs due to old crap bolts and in a small way helped with equipping the Gallery - and can really appreciate how much effort and cost goes into re-bolting.

How much? Cost of a tank of petrol to climb at LPT? Cost of a cam to protect a similar trad route? (ie rather more than the profit margin one one book).

So if you donate and don't prefer to be anonymous then sign up below

http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/

Kevin

In reply to kevin stephens:

Kevin Stephens
 The Pylon King 14 Jun 2013
In reply to kevin stephens:

not me.

Bolts. horrible things.
In reply to kevin stephens: Me, twice
 Martin Bennett 14 Jun 2013
In reply to kevin stephens:


Nearly had me dipping in me pocket there Kev - titling it NW bolt fund - since when has NW meant anywhere but God's country - North West England? I presume since the trend began of ascribing an acronym to just about everything, talking of which what the f*** is LPT to which your tank of petrol is going to take you?

Mmmm let me see . . . tank of petrol, depending what your driving, say 500 miles . . . from Leigh Lancs . . . would get you to, say, Orkney. Wot! You're going to bolt The Old man of Hoy?

 bpmclimb 16 Jun 2013
In reply to kevin stephens:

Hi. Sorry if I missed it, but I couldn't immediately find a clear statement of exactly what the North Wales bolt fund covers. Can you confirm that it is exclusively for the replacement of old bolts (i.e. never for new routes or retrobolting). Thanks.
In reply to bpmclimb:
Hi, The "other thread" makes it clear several times that the bolt find is only to replace old bolts.
In reply to kevin stephens:

The other thread drags on but with the notable exception of Alan's Rockfax commitment to talk to the bolt fund no one else is admitting to put hands in pockets. As ever on UKC; self righteous words and spraying are cheaper than actions.
 Dave Williams 17 Jun 2013
In reply to kevin stephens:
> (In reply to kevin stephens)
>
> The other thread drags on but with the notable exception of Alan's Rockfax commitment to talk to the bolt fund no one else is admitting to put hands in pockets. As ever on UKC; self righteous words and spraying are cheaper than actions.

Now this is a very good example of one of UKC's old favourites - 'the sweeping statement'.

I think you need to revisit the thread, tiresome and odious as that may be, and then perhaps come down from your (self righteous?) high horse.

Dave
 Ally Smith 17 Jun 2013
In reply to kevin stephens:

Yes - i'm a regular climbing on the north wales and have contributed multiple times. I feel it's an obligation to contribute to local scenes, be it through bolt funds or volunteering for crag clean-ups. Everyone should do it.
 3 Names 17 Jun 2013
In reply to kevin stephens:


I have not contributed to this bolt fund
 AJM 17 Jun 2013
In reply to kevin stephens:

I'd be careful about assuming a lack of responses mean a lack of donations. I wasn't going to respond to this thread because of the whole "look at me I've donated now I can feel morally superior" vibe which I didn't want to give off.

Since you seem keen to use the thread as some sort of moral yardstick though, I donated years ago to whatever the bolt fund was at the time. Since I've to date dome 2 routes on nWl and maybe a dozen more on slate I'm probably still karmically speaking about even.

In terms of my local area I've donated to the bolt fund, attended a couple of crag clearance days and proof read a couple of guidebooks. I hope that's sufficient to avoid being looked down on from the moral high ground.
In reply to AJM: Cool, no intention to occupy any "moral high ground" - (my "Karmic Balance" is same as yours). But it is good to get people talking about giving to the bolt fund rather than getting all high and mighty about guidebook contributions, which I understand will not be anywhere near enough to pay for re-equipping of existing routes. And there IS a contingent on UKC accusing certain publishers of not pulling their weight but unwilling to pay themselves
 3 Names 17 Jun 2013
In reply to kevin stephens:
> And there IS a contingent on UKC accusing certain publishers of not pulling their weight but unwilling to pay themselves

Is there?

 Quiddity 17 Jun 2013
In reply to kevin stephens:
> (In reply to kevin stephens)
>
> The other thread drags on but with the notable exception of Alan's Rockfax commitment to talk to the bolt fund no one else is admitting to put hands in pockets. As ever on UKC; self righteous words and spraying are cheaper than actions.

I have contributed to show support even though I have never climbed there, I just wasn't going to make a big deal about it.
 Quiddity 17 Jun 2013
In reply to kevin stephens:
> (In reply to AJM) Cool, no intention to occupy any "moral high ground" - (my "Karmic Balance" is same as yours). But it is good to get people talking about giving to the bolt fund rather than getting all high and mighty about guidebook contributions, which I understand will not be anywhere near enough to pay for re-equipping of existing routes. And there IS a contingent on UKC accusing certain publishers of not pulling their weight but unwilling to pay themselves

I think the main issue is that guidebook publishers stand to benefit commercially from the bolt fund if the area becomes more popular through the rebolting effort, that and Alan made a big deal about saying, more or less, that everyone should chill out as rockfax supported the bolt fund when on closer inspection this turned out to be wilfully misleading.
In reply to Quiddity: is it ok that he says that there will now be a contribution?

Would that contribution have ever existed if it wasn't for the furor generated on the other thread?

These questions do not sit well with me at the moment.
 Jonny2vests 17 Jun 2013
In reply to Martin Bennett:
> (In reply to kevin stephens)
>
> talking of which what the f*** is LPT to which your tank of petrol is going to take you?

Dude, you are missing out. Makes Portland look shabby.
In reply to Jonny2vests:
> (In reply to Martin Bennett)
> [...]
>
> Dude, you are missing out. Makes Portland look shabby.

Martin's a pensioner so he only climbs crap bolted routes abroad now

In reply to Quiddity:
> (In reply to kevin stephens)
> [...]
>
> I have contributed to show support even though I have never climbed there, I just wasn't going to make a big deal about it.

About time you tore yourself away from Portland Nick. Llandudno limestone is well worth a weekend's drive from London

 Quiddity 18 Jun 2013
In reply to kevin stephens:

Too right, it looks ace, been meaning to give it a look for ages. Can't wait for the new guide.
 metal arms 18 Jun 2013
In reply to kevin stephens:
> And there IS a contingent on UKC accusing certain publishers of not pulling their weight but unwilling to pay themselves.

<Rolls eyes>
 timjones 18 Jun 2013
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:
> (In reply to kevin stephens)
>
> Yes - i'm a regular climbing on the north wales and have contributed multiple times. I feel it's an obligation to contribute to local scenes, be it through bolt funds or volunteering for crag clean-ups. Everyone should do it.

WTH are "local scenes"? Do all climbers have to contribute? Does not being a selfish twunt and taking your own rubbish home with you qualify under your "crag clean-up" requirement?
 timjones 18 Jun 2013
In reply to kevin stephens:
> (In reply to Quiddity)
> [...]
>
> About time you tore yourself away from Portland Nick. Llandudno limestone is well worth a weekend's drive from London

But it would be a shameful waste to drive past all the quality mountain routes in Snowdonia to get to the bolts
 AJM 18 Jun 2013
In reply to timjones:

By what route would you drive through Snowdonia to get to Llandudno from London? Or from almost anywhere, for that matter, except for perhaps coastal mid Wales somewhere...

Regarding local scenes, do you genuinely not understand or are you being rhetorical in some sense? I can't really read your tone...
 Martin Bennett 18 Jun 2013
In reply to Jonny2vests:
> (In reply to Martin Bennett)
> [...]
>
> Dude, you are missing out. Makes Portland look shabby.

Where's Portland?

 Martin Bennett 18 Jun 2013
In reply to kevin stephens:
> (In reply to Jonny2vests)
> [...]
>
> Martin's a pensioner so he only climbs crap bolted routes abroad now

Only if I can't avoid 'em. No bolts in The Anti-Atlas!

 timjones 18 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to timjones)
>
> By what route would you drive through Snowdonia to get to Llandudno from London? Or from almost anywhere, for that matter, except for perhaps coastal mid Wales somewhere...
>
> Regarding local scenes, do you genuinely not understand or are you being rhetorical in some sense? I can't really read your tone...

I'd suggest that M54/A5 would be as good as most routes to reach Llandudno. If you prefer you prefer M56/A55 it's still a longer journey to reach the bolts than the mountains. At the end of the day it was only a tongue in cheek comment

My remarks on "local scenes" were intended to highlight the fact that they may seem important to those who like the cachet but many climbers won't feel the need to belong to a "scene" and merely seek to enjoy their climbing in a responsible manner. Should anyone feel obliged to contribute to a "local scene"?
 Jonny2vests 18 Jun 2013
In reply to timjones:
> (In reply to kevin stephens)
> [...]
>
> But it would be a shameful waste to drive past all the quality mountain routes in Snowdonia to get to the bolts

Ahhh see the cunning climber realises that Snowdonia, Gogarth and the Orme compliment each other perfectly weather wise.
 ark05 18 Jun 2013
In reply to Quiddity:
> (In reply to kevin stephens)
> [...]
>
> I have contributed to show support even though I have never climbed there, I just wasn't going to make a big deal about it.

had a quick look in your log book and you have done multiple bolted routes on the slate which is also covered by north wales bolt fund!
 timjones 18 Jun 2013
In reply to Jonny2vests:
> (In reply to timjones)
> [...]
>
> Ahhh see the cunning climber realises that Snowdonia, Gogarth and the Orme compliment each other perfectly weather wise.

Never mind the weather, any day in Snowdonia is a good day
 Quiddity 18 Jun 2013
In reply to adamki:

ok it turns out I did once clip some bolts on slate.
 Jonny2vests 18 Jun 2013
In reply to timjones:
> (In reply to Jonny2vests)
> [...]
>
> Never mind the weather, any day in Snowdonia is a good day

Fair enough, but many would be hard pushed to rank a wet walk over an epic sea cliff. Each to their own.

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