UKC

Crags with lots of good quality 7a's/ 7a+'s/7b's

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 ilovetoclimb 15 Jun 2013
Looking for a crag with a good number of good quality 7a/7a+/7b routes. Where could I find such a crag?
 JLS 15 Jun 2013
 john arran 15 Jun 2013
In reply to ilovetoclimb:

The best around here (Ariège) I'd say would be Alliat - especially Passe Murailles, le Livre and Spoulgas sectors. But Sibada and Saut de l'Ours are excellent too.
OP ilovetoclimb 15 Jun 2013
In reply to ilovetoclimb:Sorry, forgot to mention I'm looking for a crag in the UK!
 JLS 15 Jun 2013
In reply to ilovetoclimb:

Aarr, thee be lookin' in'd the wrong place then sir...
OP ilovetoclimb 15 Jun 2013
In reply to JLS: Thought that may be the case, thats why I'm having difficulty possibly. There must be somewhere!
 The Pylon King 15 Jun 2013
In reply to ilovetoclimb:

Froggatt edgwe in the peak has a 7a and a 7b:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10876

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=88973

and Curbar has a few including this 7a

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=250816
OP ilovetoclimb 15 Jun 2013
In reply to The Pylon King: Looking for sport! No E10's for me......yet
 snoop6060 15 Jun 2013
In reply to ilovetoclimb:

the orme, Llandudno. Mayfair wall would be a great start.
 adam 24 15 Jun 2013
In reply to ilovetoclimb: Portland is Dorset has a good quantity of climbs in the 7s, probably several hundred in that range. Most of the climbing is vertical and quite techy. Bonus of being one of the sunniest areas in the UK.
 RBK 15 Jun 2013
In reply to ilovetoclimb: Chapel Head.
In reply to ilovetoclimb: Portland is good at that grade range.

Wallsend South springs to mind as perhaps the best individual crag with perhaps 20 two or three star routes but there are superb low 7s on most of the western facing cliffs from Blacknor North to Coastguard.
 Jus 16 Jun 2013
In reply to ilovetoclimb:

What style?
OP ilovetoclimb 16 Jun 2013
In reply to Jus: Any style!
 The Ivanator 16 Jun 2013
In reply to ilovetoclimb: As others have suggested Portland has a host of routes at that grade, best areas are...
Wallsend South: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=268
The Cuttings: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=276
Battleship Back Cliff: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=265
Blacknor North: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=260
Blacknor Central: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=261
Blacknor South: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=262
Blacknor Far South: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=263
...should keep you busy for a while.
in the Wye Valley Ban-y-Gor has a good selection of routes in that grade range too (pack your mozzie repellent):
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=70
Steeper and juggier than most of the Portland climbing, biceps rather than fingers!
 Andy Farnell 16 Jun 2013
In reply to ilovetoclimb: Malham has some reasonable routes in that range. Try Trow Gill after an extended dry spell.

Andy F
 The Pylon King 16 Jun 2013
In reply to Jus:
> (In reply to ilovetoclimb)
>
> What style?

Gangnam Style
 Mehmet Karatay 16 Jun 2013
In reply to ilovetoclimb:

What about Weem crag or Dumbarton rock? The various sport crags near Gairloch may also fit the bill according to the new Scottish Sport Climbs guidebook?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=394
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=189

Mehmet
 1234None 16 Jun 2013
In reply to ilovetoclimb:

I would say that you'd be hard pressed to beat the Ormes at those grades. Some really great routes including Night Glue, Axle Attack, Mayfair, Bloodsports, The Bloods etc. All great quality...
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