UKC

I'm looking for beta for the first few moves. Ideally a sequence that would suit someone who might have gotten a little fat and weak of late.

It's the move up and right from the fingernail crushing edge (left) to the pinch level with the first bolt I can't make. I can get into launching position (Rt foot on) but then I just follow my arse downwards.

jk

In reply to jkarran:
I assume that is the same way Brewer showed you? Did he finish it off?
The only thing i can remember is to make sure that the right foot is outside edging to bring you body in a bit tighter?
Also, make sure you get the next hold as a pinch rather than a sidepull, i.e. positively locate the thumb in the notch so it can take a bit of a downwards pull as you rotate yourself back out of the position described above.

In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:

Interesting, I can't quite envisage how the outside edge would work (dropped knee or on a hold out left of the groove). We were both doing the move with the right toe on which worked for Brewer but he's as strong as a horse.

Neither of us ticked it. Brewer just needs to learn the moves better.

Did you get banned again?
jk

In reply to jkarran:
You can use the other side of the nosey bit for your right hand as a (poor) intermediate to set you up for the move to the pinch. Get the weirdly angled positive left hold on the left hand side of the nose/rib feature, sort your feet, move your right so it is using the right hand side of the nose/rib as a big sloper. Which will let you adjust your body position slightly and let you go for the pinch from a slightly higher position. It's not a great intermediate but if your lacking in the beef department (or have been over-indulging in the beef department) then it turns one long more powerful move into two less powerful shorter moves, probably no easier overall but less burlsome. Dunno what the outside edge right foot thing is either??

Or you could man up and lay off the pies.

In reply to jkarran:


I think that's pretty much it - I've seen people use the slopey undercut and/or tiny slot to help them get their weight over their foot. I'm not sure how else you'd do it but it feels absolutely desperate to me too so if there's an alternative method I'm all ears...

In reply to Nik Jennings:

Hmmm... all good advice I suspect, especially regarding the pies! I looked at that hold on the nose but was too tired (busy having a tantrum) to give it a go.

In reply to jkarran:

Not a massively outside edge move, just make sure your toe is pointing a little to the left to get some more strength out of the left hand.

I wasn't banned; just changed name in deference to the ridiculous Daily Mail article.

In reply to jkarran: I had a play on this at the weekend.

On the big rail of footholds (think it's where your hands are before moving to the left hand which you mentioned), there is a kind of square foothold on the corner which allows me to put my knee into a bit of an upside-down dish.

If I really push down with my toe I can get a pretty decent kneebar in and reach the pinch easily, chalk right hand up etc on it. Then sort feet and go to the Jug.

Might be worth a go as it saved me a hard move!

In reply to jkarran: it has been a while since I did Ground Effect, but I'm pretty certain my belayer said something along the lines of 'just pull harder'. That may well work for you as well...

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell:


Just pulling harder worked for me too

In reply to James Malloch:


I can feel the roof with my knee in that position but couldn't make the kneebar stick. I have stumpy little legs. Worth another go at least, thanks.

In reply to Andy Farnell:

I know, I know but it's always a last resort. I hate having to MTFU and just pull harder, it feels like such a failure