/ Worn out toe bale on boots, crampons etc.
At the moment I've got a second-hand pair of Nepal extremes and terminator crampons that seem to do the job nicely. The only problem is the front toe bale of the boots is starting to get very worn down, and though the crampons still feel secure it's potentially a bit sketchy. So, my options seem to be
- Resole the boots, the green mid-sole is looking a bit cracked and worn so I guess that'd need replacing as well- expensive! and keep using the crampons.
- Buy some C2 crampons, and leave the boots as they are. I'm sure these wouldn't limit my climbing (for a fair few seasons, maybe ever!) and could be lighter as well. But the boots might still need to be replaced in a couple of years.
- Replace the boots.
- Carry on and hope for the best, at least until they start feeling unstable.
At the moment they'll mostly be used for easyish winter climbing (III-ish) and alpine stuff, but I'd like to get on steeper stuff soon.
Any advice appreciated!
Not true. The frame of my terminators broke after about 8 seasons of regular use http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_3bhSo6922y4/SXihls4U5UI/AAAAAAAABRs/-mVPI3JmK7I/s1600-h/terminator2.JPG but the Nepal Extremes I always used them on are still OK and, because I generally use them on snow, I haven't needed to resole them yet.
Ed, terminators have the metal "safety" strap from the bail to the ankle strap which makes them much less likely to fall of completely so they stay on my very worn nepals OK. Nevertheless, if you can afford some decent all round crampons with the plastic strap at the front - it's not a bad investment. For various reasons I ended up doing my hardest ice climbs this last season in my Grivel g12s, and when its not very cold or early season I've come to the conclusions they work as well as the terminators, and thats for vertical water ice. I suspect on Scottish III they won't make any difference at all and are better for summer alps etc.
I think monos are clearly better on mixed climbs. On water ice I'm yet to be convinced that monos are better than G14 and I agree the difference between g14 dual and g12 is IMO not that large on water ice (as long as its not mega hard / brittle)
I'd be tempted to leave the boots as they are and get some strap on crampons and sell the terminators.
I think the strap is a superior fitting for the following reasons:
- If you have a well fitting newmatic style crampon where the crampons stays on the boot when lifted without doing up any of the clips / straps, once the strap is done up properly I think this is a more solid fit than a bail bar (there is always some play in the bail bar due to the way it connects with the crampon frame, this can always be moved a bit to the side and usually a tiny bit up and and down.
- straps are quicker to put on
- bail bars change shape with use generally meaning reduced front point protrusion, strap fittings the front point protrusion is nearly static.
- bail bars rely on the boot welt which does tend to get less secure with time. I found the nepals welt is prone to cracking, once cracked I don't think this fitting is safe enough (in many cases)
> I think monos are clearly better on mixed climbs.
Probably, although i'm not sure if at III (or even V for that matter) it makes much difference.
> Probably, although i'm not sure if at III (or even V for that matter) it makes much difference.
for most climbs I agree.
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