/ La Sportiva vs 5.10?

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Kemics - on 25 Jun 2013
I've basically only ever climbed in Anasazis (VCR, Verde and Blanco) and been happy with them all. I get a good fit, they climb well, seem to last a good while.

But, the Katanas/Murias seem quite appealing as an alternative? Though I'm told they are super sticky..but wear out very quickly. Would anyone recommend switching? Or is it a case of if it's not broke, dont fix. I cant say I've ever felt my shoes hold me back even slightly
puppythedog on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to Kemics: I have both Miura VS and Verde, there is nothing I can do in one that I cannot do in the other I suspect. It would be important to compare like for like though. Verde's have a little less support but they are not aimed at exactly the same thing, they seem like a good alrounder for people climbing our level. Miuras are stiffer and seem very comfortable and good a steeper limestone whereas on Grit I wished I'd got my Verdes.
Anoetic - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to Kemics: for me the heel fit is different. I have no problems with sportivas, but 5.10s just don't seem to have a snug fit around the heel.
Double Knee Bar - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to Anoetic: there is supposed to be a little dead space in the Anasazi heal. The idea is that the heal forces your forefoot into the toebox to prevent rolling.
hellboundblr - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to Kemics:
These days my climbing is mainly indoor bouldering, so perhaps not best qualified to answer your question. But here goes anyway:

I wear Anasazi VCS size 8.5 and Katanas Velcro 7.5
I find some problems i can do in one shoe but not the other. But I guess it will vary from person to person depending on ability, technique, shape of foot, temprature and loads of other things.
I find the Katanas are generally better for heel hooks. They also seem to be more sensitive and give more feedback through your feet. When i first got them they were great on tiny foot holds, but as they have worn in i have found their edging ability has deteriorated slightly more than my Anazazi's have over the same period. Also the extra sensitivity very occasionally makes it painful when my weight is all on one toe on a small hold.
The Katanas seem to wear out a little quicker than the Anasazi's, but not to a ridiculous extent.
In general I prefer the Anasazis. They seem to perform excellent on really small holds and last longer and are a bit cheaper.
Overall i guess if it aint broke...
Anoetic - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to Double Knee Bar: Hi, i dont just mean a little dead space. I find that when doing certain moves such as heel hooking the 5.10s just don't feel secure. I wear both miuras and solutions and have found that i trust them more. Also when looking for a cheaper alternative to la sportiva's i have found the high end Scarpa's great shoes (instinct vs & boostics)
astley007 - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to Double Knee Bar:
La sportiva vs 5:10?
Alien vs Predator
Dazing Cows vs Wallabees??
All fighting talk on this web?? thought it was all about climbing??
Double Knee Bar - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to astley007: it was the sheep that were overdazing. Not the cows!
cha1n on 26 Jun 2013
In reply to Kemics:

People have climbed hard in all of those shoes, so performance isn't an issue.

A good fit is the main objective. I switched from sportiva a while back and in my opinion, five ten has superior rubber.
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TimB - on 26 Jun 2013
In reply to Kemics:

For my feet, the toe and heel fits feel slightly different between La Sportiva and FiveTen shoes.

I prefer the Sportiva heels, but the FiveTen toe shape. So I buy FiveTen.

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