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Topic - how many clove hitches

somethingelse - on 27 Jun 2013
I'm just starting to lead climb and when building belays I have been using clove hitches and 8 on a bite combinations to attach to anchors and seal the belay set-up off. I was wondering, though, how many knots should you really be running through the carabiner attached to your harness? (I have one carabiner for attaching to the belay, and one for belay device, both attached through belay loop).

Say setting up a belay with 3 anchors out of reach I would typically have two clove hitches and an 8 on a bite to seal the loop attached to a big locking carabiner. (I'm using an 8 on a bite to seal the loop because thats what the person I'm learning from does, but presumably I could just use another clove hitch?)

I read on the link below that clove hitches have to be orientated correctly against the strong spine of the carabiner. Does this mean you should only really have one clove hitch per carabiner? Or does it simply mean that each of the clove hitches should be correctly orientated (see diagram in link) with the load running on the spine-side of the knot? If the latter then is the only limit on the number of clove hitches you can have on a carabiner down to the size of the carabiner itself?

Apologies if this is daft question, can't seem to locate a definitive answer anywhere easily.

Link to mentioned article:

http://www.guidetricksforclimbers.com/index.php/appendix/78-gtc-articles/78-use-and-abuse-of-the-clo...

Thanks,
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