/ NEWS: Julian Lines Climbs Hold Fast, Hold True - E9/10
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68145
Respect. Massive respect. I'd rate this as a very significant ascent; it's taken a long time for one of Dave's Scottish testpieces to get a repeat, and to add a (probably harder) direct finish must have been the icing on the cake.
Jules is a complete dark-horse legend, and his Icon of Lust on the Shelterstone deserves some attention. I think MacLeod said it might be harder than Walk of Life!
Just one point for the UKC editors; "Free-soloing"? Really?
Well done Mr Lines! Makes me feel quite queasy just thinking about it. :)
It's understandable in the light of the Chris Bevins NIAD interview/triumph because some people reading that clearly didn't get that you can lead solo, aid solo etc. I know in the UK soloing normally means, well, soloing, but I guess Jules is known for his totally mental "free soloing", not for being anti-social and going off to lead solo with a silent partner or modded grigri! ;)
> Just one point for the UKC editors; "Free-soloing"? Really?
Ruddy Americanisms :-)
Note to editors: the measurement of distance is in metres.
The first time anyone other than MacLeod has climbed E9+ in Scotland!
> Jules is a complete dark-horse legend, and his Icon of Lust on the Shelterstone deserves some attention. I think MacLeod said it might be harder than Walk of Life!
He rated Walk of Life as 'mid-E9' I think.
Apparently he had a play on Icon of Lust and reported 'definitely E8' though didn't actually lead it.
Yes, I may have slightly misquoted Dave there, after doing Walk of Life he commented on his blog
"I’m thinking now that Andy Nisbet might well be right when he commented in the Cairngorms guide that Britian’s hardest slab climb might be Icon of Lust"
Don't know if this was before or after he'd actually been on it.
Amazing effort. I had no idea JL was still active at this sort of level - how old must he be now?
Did that warrant E9 with the "baby-bouncer" side-runner arrangement?
*insert enormous unwinnable grade argument here*
I'm pretty sure Rhapsody got a couple of repeats.
And needed to be pushed into going public. Respect is due.
I'm sure though that there's more than just one E9+ climber in Scotland?
Of course the nature of the first ascent now poses a problem to potential repeat ascents. Will a lead ascent with ropes (assuming there is some sort of gear either in the finish or in the parent route) count? Or will it be seen as inferior?
I would say that it ain't that problematic...
Solo with pre-practice is still a headpoint. Onsight with ropes should still triumph on ethical standpoint. Perhaps even ground up would be better.
Judging by the descriptions in the article it doesn't sound like there's any meaningful gear on either the original or the direct, so even with a rope on it sounds like you'd be using a soloists mentality.
One of the most audacious ascents for years, looking forward to the book.
There are two now, although I'm sure that others are capable.
I'd love to see some more of MacLeod's E9/10s getting some southern attention too, it would be interesting to see how they stack up against big numbers in England/Wales.
Don't think so, but I could be wrong. I must admit I'd forgotten about his relocation.
Very inspiring. Well done.
I didn't know about the book until now but I'm very keen to get my hands on a copy.
He wrote a piece for Climb magazine a few months ago, some of it was quoted from the book, if that's anything to go by, Tears of the Dawn will be brilliant!
Oh, and good effort on the climbing too!
I've had a sneaky preview of a couple of the chapters of Julian's book and recommend everyone get a copy, it's a superb read!
> The first time anyone other than MacLeod has climbed E9+ in Scotland!
Or, in the last few weeks:
The same pair put up a route on Eigg 11 years ago which in all likelihood is E9.
amazing. palms sweating just reading that! The book will be a must have.
respect to JL
In his prime obv. JCM.
I saw him talk at Edinburgh Uni one night - he seemed to not enjoy it, sipping nervously from a hipflask though-out.
On the otherhand I thought it was great; self-effacing, engaging and funny. Nice Pink Floyd sound-track too.
Great effort, looking forward to book....
yes I really don't know how I managed to forget about Rhapsody and Long Hope.
Regardless, the first repeat of a MacLeod E9 is quite an event!
> Did that warrant E9 with the "baby-bouncer" side-runner arrangement?
> *insert enormous unwinnable grade argument here*
Yes obviously anything we might say can fairly be classed as armchair speculation!
It's not often though that using side runners wouldn't alter the grade of something.
Cheers for that, I don't think I heard about that
Incredible! Well done Jules...
Even better than the one in Dave Cuthbertson'e 2001 calendar (June) of him on Realm of the Senses on the Shelter Stone? Probably the best rock climbing photo I've ever seen (much better than the one taken at the same time on p115 of the guidebook).
Among stacks of inspiring low-publicity first ascents of his, one that jumped out at me recently looking through an SMC journal was an E7 arete at Clean Cut near Stoer, 'Scotland's answer to Master's Edge', I wonder if that's had any repeats.
> The same pair put up a route on Eigg 11 years ago which in all likelihood is E9.
What route's that?
I guess logistics and weather have a lot to do with the lack of headpointing of routes up here, especially the mountain routes.
Also some of the strongest just don't seem to be psyched for it either; Niall, Tony S, McGeek, Iain Small. Pretty sure they could knock out an E9 between them with enough prepractise.
> I guess logistics and weather have a lot to do with the lack of headpointing of routes up here, especially the mountain routes.
> Also some of the strongest just don't seem to be psyched for it either; Niall, Tony S, McGeek, Iain Small. Pretty sure they could knock out an E9 between them with enough prepractise.
Perhaps, without getting into a "who's the bestest" or "he's a bit of a fanny because he top roped it first" spat I'd point out that Jules has been soloing hard stuff for years, it's what he does and I guess his head is very much adjusted to taking on that sort of thing.
I remember hearing about some fa's he did in the gorms a few years ago in Coire Sputan Dearg , E4s and an E5 IIRC. All solo and of course miles from anywhere or anyone else for that matter. It was pointed out to me that if he'd fallen off he'd have died anyway so the lack of other people around didn't make much difference...
Heck of a line!
Really cool little zawn that and all about five minutes from the campsite. Wish I was good enough! Outstanding line.
I don't think there is even a hint of a spat in this thread.
Looks like universal awe for an amazing effort combined with some musing about the number of Scottish-based climbers who are climbing E9.
If you though that my post hinted otherwise then it must read differently to what I intended.
I'd love to climb that arete on any side!
Great stuff! Such a brilliant line.
Fantastic! I think I saw him shunting the route earlier in the year. Superb effort and at what a grade...
I daresay this won't be repeated anytime soon.
I found this comment funny, not exactly sure why. What made you ask this?
Hahah class comment !!
So Jules is finally getting the credit he deserves -
The most nicest ,modest and big balled man who clearly is a credit to the world of climbing!
It's been a bit of a long standing project for the judge and it nearly wasn't to be, I was kinda praying he wasn't going to solo it and when he injured himself I secretly breathed a sigh of releaf -
But he prevailed as he usually does and now it's time to buy his book and read all about this"national man of mystery"
Well done judge !! Beers on you :)
Btw it is E10 !!
So THAT's who Judge Jules is named after! I always assumed it was some comic-book figure. Live and learn.....
Nice one. I will be buying it. Legend.
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