/ NEWS: Julian Lines Climbs Hold Fast, Hold True - E9/10

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UKC News - on 28 Jun 2013
Jules high on the direct finish to Holdfast; Hold Fast, Hold True, E9/10 7a, 2 kbJulian Lines recently added a direct finish to Dave Macleod's†Holdfast, E9 7a, on Whale Rock in Glen Nevis. In keeping with his experience as a free soloist, Jules soloed the line after working the route extensively on toprope. Upon completing the route, he named the direct finish†Hold Fast, Hold True...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68145
Jamie B - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Respect. Massive respect. I'd rate this as a very significant ascent; it's taken a long time for one of Dave's Scottish testpieces to get a repeat, and to add a (probably harder) direct finish must have been the icing on the cake.

Jules is a complete dark-horse legend, and his Icon of Lust on the Shelterstone deserves some attention. I think MacLeod said it might be harder than Walk of Life!

Just one point for the UKC editors; "Free-soloing"? Really?
In reply to Jamie B:

Well done Mr Lines! Makes me feel quite queasy just thinking about it. :)

> Just one point for the UKC editors; "Free-soloing"? Really?

It's understandable in the light of the Chris Bevins NIAD interview/triumph because some people reading that clearly didn't get that you can lead solo, aid solo etc. I know in the UK soloing normally means, well, soloing, but I guess Jules is known for his totally mental "free soloing", not for being anti-social and going off to lead solo with a silent partner or modded grigri! ;)
remus - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News: Good effort from Jules, looks like a quality line.
a lakeland climber on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to Jamie B:

>
> Just one point for the UKC editors; "Free-soloing"? Really?

Ruddy Americanisms :-)

Note to editors: the measurement of distance is in metres.

ALC

franksnb - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News: Looking forward to that book! also I'm surprised the pedants didn't pick you up on: "..finding a good but positive hold.." ;)
Michael Gordon - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Wow.

The first time anyone other than MacLeod has climbed E9+ in Scotland!
Michael Gordon - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to Jamie B:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Jules is a complete dark-horse legend, and his Icon of Lust on the Shelterstone deserves some attention. I think MacLeod said it might be harder than Walk of Life!
>

He rated Walk of Life as 'mid-E9' I think.

Apparently he had a play on Icon of Lust and reported 'definitely E8' though didn't actually lead it.


Jamie B - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

> Apparently he had a play on Icon of Lust and reported 'definitely E8' though didn't actually lead it.

Yes, I may have slightly misquoted Dave there, after doing Walk of Life he commented on his blog

"Iím thinking now that Andy Nisbet might well be right when he commented in the Cairngorms guide that Britianís hardest slab climb might be Icon of Lust"

Don't know if this was before or after he'd actually been on it.


Adam Lincoln - on 28 Jun 2013
Can't tell from that report, or maybe i missed it, but did he repeat Holdfast also?
johncoxmysteriously - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Amazing effort. I had no idea JL was still active at this sort of level - how old must he be now?

jcm
Bulls Crack - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Wow.
>
> The first time anyone other than MacLeod has climbed E9+ in Scotland!

Not quite

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=28718
Jamie B - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to Bulls Crack:

Did that warrant E9 with the "baby-bouncer" side-runner arrangement?

*insert enormous unwinnable grade argument here*
Steve Perry - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:
> (In reply to UKC News)

> The first time anyone other than MacLeod has climbed E9+ in Scotland!

I'm pretty sure Rhapsody got a couple of repeats.
Skyfall - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Wowsers!

And needed to be pushed into going public. Respect is due.

Cameron94 on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News: Pretty epic route to solo.

I'm sure though that there's more than just one E9+ climber in Scotland?
jon on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Of course the nature of the first ascent now poses a problem to potential repeat ascents. Will a lead ascent with ropes (assuming there is some sort of gear either in the finish or in the parent route) count? Or will it be seen as inferior?
HeMa on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to jon:
> Of course the nature of the first ascent now poses a problem to potential repeat ascents. Will a lead ascent with ropes (assuming there is some sort of gear either in the finish or in the parent route) count? Or will it be seen as inferior?

I would say that it ain't that problematic...

Solo with pre-practice is still a headpoint. Onsight with ropes should still triumph on ethical standpoint. Perhaps even ground up would be better.
nathanlee - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to jon:

Judging by the descriptions in the article it doesn't sound like there's any meaningful gear on either the original or the direct, so even with a rope on it sounds like you'd be using a soloists mentality.

One of the most audacious ascents for years, looking forward to the book.
Jamie B - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to Cameron94:

> I'm sure that there's more than just one E9+ climber in Scotland?

There are two now, although I'm sure that others are capable.

I'd love to see some more of MacLeod's E9/10s getting some southern attention too, it would be interesting to see how they stack up against big numbers in England/Wales.

Steve Perry - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to Jamie B: Simon Nadin lives in Scotland are you sure he hasn't climbed E9?
Jamie B - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to Steve Perry:

Don't think so, but I could be wrong. I must admit I'd forgotten about his relocation.
Andrew Barker - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Very inspiring. Well done.

I didn't know about the book until now but I'm very keen to get my hands on a copy.
Dan Lane - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to Andrew Barker:

He wrote a piece for Climb magazine a few months ago, some of it was quoted from the book, if that's anything to go by, Tears of the Dawn will be brilliant!

Oh, and good effort on the climbing too!
Sonya Mc on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News: Well done Jules :)

I've had a sneaky preview of a couple of the chapters of Julian's book and recommend everyone get a copy, it's a superb read!
Steve Perry - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to Sonya Mc: I can't wait to read it, soloing E9/E10 is just incredible.
Adam Long - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Wow.
>
> The first time anyone other than MacLeod has climbed E9+ in Scotland!

> [...]
>
> Not quite
>

Or, in the last few weeks:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68100

The same pair put up a route on Eigg 11 years ago which in all likelihood is E9.
jazzyjackson on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News:

amazing. palms sweating just reading that! The book will be a must have.
respect to JL
Hay - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
In his prime obv. JCM.
41,42 maybe...?

I saw him talk at Edinburgh Uni one night - he seemed to not enjoy it, sipping nervously from a hipflask though-out.
On the otherhand I thought it was great; self-effacing, engaging and funny. Nice Pink Floyd sound-track too.

Great effort, looking forward to book....


Bruce
Michael Gordon - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to Adam Long:

yes I really don't know how I managed to forget about Rhapsody and Long Hope.

Regardless, the first repeat of a MacLeod E9 is quite an event!
ads.ukclimbing.com
Michael Gordon - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to Jamie B:
> (In reply to Bulls Crack)
>
> Did that warrant E9 with the "baby-bouncer" side-runner arrangement?
>
> *insert enormous unwinnable grade argument here*

Yes obviously anything we might say can fairly be classed as armchair speculation!

It's not often though that using side runners wouldn't alter the grade of something.
Hock - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon: Dave B did "die by the drop E10" last year, he used an obvious side runner. He suggested E8.
Michael Gordon - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to Hock:

Cheers for that, I don't think I heard about that
creag - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News:
Incredible! Well done Jules...
simon_D - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News: I think origin of the species is one of the most spectacular photo's of Jules I've ever seen, and of a route on granite in Scotland, just seems so impressive and the rock is immaculate. Good man!
Robert Durran - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to simon_D:
> (In reply to UKC News) I think origin of the species is one of the most spectacular photo's of Jules I've ever seen, and of a route on granite in Scotland.

Even better than the one in Dave Cuthbertson'e 2001 calendar (June) of him on Realm of the Senses on the Shelter Stone? Probably the best rock climbing photo I've ever seen (much better than the one taken at the same time on p115 of the guidebook).
Andy Moles - on 29 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Very cool.

Among stacks of inspiring low-publicity first ascents of his, one that jumped out at me recently looking through an SMC journal was an E7 arete at Clean Cut near Stoer, 'Scotland's answer to Master's Edge', I wonder if that's had any repeats.
mark s - on 29 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News: nice one pal.how do you fit those bollocks in them pants :-)
aln - on 29 Jun 2013
In reply to Adam Long:
> (In reply to Michael Gordon)
>
>
> The same pair put up a route on Eigg 11 years ago which in all likelihood is E9.

What route's that?
Jamie B - on 29 Jun 2013
aln - on 29 Jun 2013
In reply to Jamie B:

Aye OK I remember that now. Looks hideous but stunning.
Hay - on 29 Jun 2013
In reply to Jamie B:
I guess logistics and weather have a lot to do with the lack of headpointing of routes up here, especially the mountain routes.
Also some of the strongest just don't seem to be psyched for it either; Niall, Tony S, McGeek, Iain Small. Pretty sure they could knock out an E9 between them with enough prepractise.
Eric9Points - on 29 Jun 2013
In reply to Hay:
> (In reply to Jamie B)
> I guess logistics and weather have a lot to do with the lack of headpointing of routes up here, especially the mountain routes.
> Also some of the strongest just don't seem to be psyched for it either; Niall, Tony S, McGeek, Iain Small. Pretty sure they could knock out an E9 between them with enough prepractise.

Perhaps, without getting into a "who's the bestest" or "he's a bit of a fanny because he top roped it first" spat I'd point out that Jules has been soloing hard stuff for years, it's what he does and I guess his head is very much adjusted to taking on that sort of thing.

I remember hearing about some fa's he did in the gorms a few years ago in Coire Sputan Dearg , E4s and an E5 IIRC. All solo and of course miles from anywhere or anyone else for that matter. It was pointed out to me that if he'd fallen off he'd have died anyway so the lack of other people around didn't make much difference...
gaz.marshall - on 29 Jun 2013
In reply to Andy Moles: Richie Betts headpointed that arete but then found out he'd climbed the top section on the other side to Jules.
http://www.flickr.com/search/?w=89964255@N00&q=clean%20cut
Heck of a line!
Tom Last - on 29 Jun 2013
In reply to gaz.marshall:

Really cool little zawn that and all about five minutes from the campsite. Wish I was good enough! Outstanding line.
Hay - on 29 Jun 2013
In reply to Eric9Points:

I don't think there is even a hint of a spat in this thread.
Looks like universal awe for an amazing effort combined with some musing about the number of Scottish-based climbers who are climbing E9.

If you though that my post hinted otherwise then it must read differently to what I intended.

aln - on 29 Jun 2013
In reply to gaz.marshall:
> (In reply to Andy Moles) Richie Betts headpointed that arete but then found out he'd climbed the top section on the other side to Jules.

I'd love to climb that arete on any side!
Michael Gordon - on 29 Jun 2013
In reply to gaz.marshall:

Great stuff! Such a brilliant line.
Wee Davie - on 30 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Fantastic! I think I saw him shunting the route earlier in the year. Superb effort and at what a grade...
I daresay this won't be repeated anytime soon.
Flashman - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News: Does Julian Lines actually exist or is this some massive wind-up?
Michael Gordon - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to Flashman:
> (In reply to UKC News) Does Julian Lines actually exist or is this some massive wind-up?

I found this comment funny, not exactly sure why. What made you ask this?
justin c - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to Flashman:

Hahah class comment !!

So Jules is finally getting the credit he deserves -
The most nicest ,modest and big balled man who clearly is a credit to the world of climbing!

It's been a bit of a long standing project for the judge and it nearly wasn't to be, I was kinda praying he wasn't going to solo it and when he injured himself I secretly breathed a sigh of releaf -

But he prevailed as he usually does and now it's time to buy his book and read all about this"national man of mystery"

Well done judge !! Beers on you :)
Btw it is E10 !!
johncoxmysteriously - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to justin c:

So THAT's who Judge Jules is named after! I always assumed it was some comic-book figure. Live and learn.....

jcm
Jus - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to justin c:

Nice one. I will be buying it. Legend.
Jon Ratcliffe - on 03 Jul 2013
In reply to justin c: Innit Critch! Legend.

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