UKC

Hi all,

In need of a replacement harness as my BD Momentum AL is too large for me now I've lost weight. They don't make the same harness anymore, the new version is nothing like the old one and I don't fancy it (doesn't look as though it will last as long, the old one is tough and comfortable!)

Had a look at a few today, including the DMM Renegade.

With regards to gear loops, any advantages of angled loops over the straight ones? I reckon the wider/flat loops on the Momentum are quite roomy, I imagine tapered gear loops to be a pain with all the gear bunching forwards?

I liked the floating waist, very neat feature that I can't see having a disadvantage.

There is no haul loop. I've only used mine for anchoring myself when belaying at the wall to be honest. Don't think I'll miss not having one as I only hang my belay device and trainers on it. The extra gear loop would be useful though.

Weight isn't really an issue for me, but wear (the old Momentum Harness had leather (or similar) in the high wear places. I've a lot of wear on the back of the harness.

I might keep my Momentum for winter (it'll fit over layers!), in which case I just need a good trad harness. That or an all-round harness for trad and winter use. Any recommendations? It must be tough, all-day comfy, weight not much of a concern, and plenty of space for racking gear (I like to spread things out a bit).

To be honest, the Renegade was the only thing that interested me today, but I wasn't sure about the angled gear loops. If the Momentum still fitted I'd be sticking with it as I can't really afford a new one right now.

In reply to Martin1978: I was dissapointed recently when looking for a new harness. I wanted, fixed leg loops, 5 gear loops and ice clipper slots. I could not find this combo. I ended up with getting a petal hirundos and sowing a gear loop on the back.
In answer to your question slanted gear loops are a pain for read cause when you take off say your nuts biner that space is replaced by the gear sliding forward.

In reply to Martin1978: try camp AR

In reply to Martin1978:

Why not take your gear to the shop where you tried the harness, and rack it up and see how it works for you ? Was the Renegade the old or new model ? The new one has the front gear loops angled back rather than forward. Said to be better for keeping the stuff out of your crotch.

Rug

In reply to Martin1978: Well, I've got the renegade - really like the 7 loops (was really fed up with only 4 on my previous harness), I've not noticed any problems with the angled loops.

In reply to rug: I was thinking this tonight, going to try racking my gear on one but still interested to know how folks find them in practice (I didn't consider the gear loops until I got home). I thought it was a new harness, but the loops were angled forwards so maybe not. DMM website is down at the moment so can't check.

Cheers, Martin

In reply to John Kelly: Have you got a link? Can't find the AR harness. Thanks.

In reply to cyberpunk: I thought that might be the case, will take my gear next time I head to the shop and give it a go though. Cheers.

In reply to Mark Kemball: Thanks Mark, it does look like a good harness, except for the angled loops. Hopefully trying my gear on it will answer that question.

In reply to Martin1978:

I've been using the Renegade weekly or twice weekly for five years now. It a fantastic harness and I've never been bothered in the slightest by the angle of the loops. I like have the seven as it makes racking feel 'spacious' and un-cramped.

In reply to TobyA: Thanks Toby, will give it another look.

In reply to Martin1978: I like my Arcteryx R300 harness. There are only 4 gear loops but the front 2 are large and all 4 loops can be angled in the direction you want them. It is very light and packs up small and when wearing it I have to keep checking I still have it on, it's so comfortable.

In reply to Martin1978:

I have a Renegade but don't get on with it - too many gear loops sloping forwards etc. but it's quite old now so newest version may have changed slightly.

I recently bought a BD Aspect. Lightweight, full adjusts, lots of features eg. Clipper slots, haul loop. Can be found in a number of retailers.

http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/climbing-harnesses/aspect-harness-BD651...

In reply to Martin1978:

The angled gear loops are a terrible idea. The only reason for them is so they can squeeze the extra gear loop on each side, which is so far forwards that they're next to useless. It's a shame, as if you cut them off and replaced them with 2 straight loops on each side, it'd be pretty close to perfect.

Perhaps if you don't rack your gear in a specific order on each loop they wouldn't be so annoying, but as it is, if you take something off the bottom of the loop, it's a pain to put it back anywhere but right at the top.

In reply to Martin1978:

Wild Country Syncro Ziplock? I too don't like the angled loops.

M

In reply to victim of mathematics:

On the the original model, they're not on me. They work just as you would want them too. I guess if you are on the borderline between sizes going down rather than up would make sense so that first loops are a bit further back.

In reply to GridNorth: The R300 is not really what I'm after. I could do with buckled leg loops and light weight doesn't usually mean durable (or affordable!). Is it comfortable when hanging around in it? Read a few comments that it's not comfortable for sitting/working in?

In reply to Martin1978: Going to try a few more this weekend, but don't think I'll be wanting angled gear loops.

Cheers all, will start looking around a bit more.

In reply to Martin1978: To be honest I don't "work" routes but I have found it very comfortable on hanging stances.

In reply to GridNorth: Thanks. Was thinking more for bringing up heavy seconds

In reply to Martin1978:
i have a Misty Mountain Cadillac. brilliant confortable harness.
http://mistymountain.com/p/5120-Cadillac.htm
The gear loops on it are all usable, unlike my old renagade. i thought i would miss the rear gear loop but there is more than enough storage with the other six. They will also modify it to any spec you require. $5 for an extra loop or ice holsters etc.

In reply to Martin Wing: Looks good, shame they are in the US. I'm going shopping on Tuesday, hopefully find somewhere with a WC Syncro to try as that looks like it might fit the bill.

Shame none of the other manufacturers have the same wide/flat gear loops of the BD harnesses though.

In reply to Martin1978:
sorry
camp air cr - my mistake
http://www.rockrun.com/products/Camp-Air-CR-Harness.html
http://www.ratrace.com/631/products/Camp-Air-CR-Harness.aspx?origin=pla?kwd...

In reply to John Kelly: Ah, thanks. Looks way to light weight for me though!

In reply to Martin1978:

have a looksee at the BD aspect (skyfall mentions it).
sort of an all round harness that pretends to be specialist if you want to be.

5 gear loops, haul loop, adjustable legs, clipper slots, protective laminate on high wear areas, cool colour (blue).
its a lot like the momentum but a bit more 'alpine ready', not too heavy but not a lightweight g-string either.

an issue tho is for some reason its a bit expensive.

In reply to Martin1978: Sorry for a hijack but has anyone ever used Metolius harnesses ? They look pretty good and durable but are quite heavy weight ! I like my BD Momentum SA with the funky leg loop system but find its does pull down when its fully racked.

In reply to ice.solo: Thanks for that (and to skyfall).

It does look just the job

In reply to Martin1978: Have you seen the new Wild Country Summit? Just bought one to replace my Renegade. Just as comfy and the straight gear loops are better (for me) than the sloping ones on my five year old Renegade. Definitely worth a try...

In reply to Martin1978: Well I bought a harness today after trying on a few. The DMM Renegade was instantly comfortable and fitted me well. It's amazing how much difference there are between similar looking harnesses, and the most padded isn't always the most comfortable.

I racked it with quickdraws and the gear loops actually worked well, both standing and sitting/hanging. I'll not be racking so much in each loop as they are smaller, but there are more of them so I think it will be fine.

Thanks for the above advice, I did check out all of those recommended. Disappointed the BD Aspect didn't fit me very well as it looked just the job (and was on sale in store at £52 in Go Outdoors!).

Thanks for the advice.

In reply to TobyA & Mark:

Used it in anger yesterday, great harness, I can see why you are pleased with it

In reply to Martin1978: Nice one! Did you get the new version in red?

In reply to TobyA: It's the black and red one, which I'm sure gives me at least half a grade extra pose factor :p

https://www.cotswoldoutdoor.com/dmm-renegade-harness-e8210089

I get 20% off at Cotswold so reckon it's the best harness I could find for £54.