/ First Ice Screws
I can afford 4 to 5 screws, which will mainly be used for UK winter (up to grade V). I'll get a long one for threads, but what sizes should the other 3-4 be? I was thinking all/mainly short, then buying mediums later when I can afford them.
I've only used crap old school screws and BD express screws so far, but am sold on the idea that it's worth investing in easy-place versions. With that in mind, any views on which type to go for?
I've been looking at BD Express, Grivel 360 or Grivel Helix.
you may find 360s more expensive, but its worth having at least one for restricted placements.
this idea of a 22cm for threads then the rest short would work. probably wouldnt make them 'shortest' (as in 10cms) but 13s, maybe with a 16 (so you can use the 22 and 16 for belays).
old turbo expresses can still sometimes be found at good prices. no little twirley handle, but still not too hard to place.
I have a 22cm BD express turbo, most recent design, still in shop packaging, obviously unused
also 13/16/19 of the same. Contact me if interested.
Telemark Pyrenees have some great prices on 16 cm BDs at the mo' http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/blackdiamondexpressicescrews-p-732.html
1 x 10
2 x 13
2 x 16
1 x 19
And rely on rock gear for most of the belay.
Yes, I know that's 6 but you should find a bargain at this time of year. I bought three Petal Laser Sonics new for £25 each this Spring. They are very good to place and outstanding value if you can find them anywhere near that price.
My winter partners have 3-5 of their own screws, so just want a few to get me going. We going to Rjukan early next year so wanted to make sure we had at least 10 screws between us. My mate's just got a set of lasers, so I'll have a play with his.
bd express are the best I've used and rack nicely too. I had a grivel 360 but didn't like it and sold it on.
I would get one of each of the lengths if I was you
ie 10cm, 13cm, 16 cm, 19cm, 22cm. From there you will likely mostly want screws in the range 13 -> 19 cm. For brittle well climbed (and cracked / screwed) euro ice 19cm ones feel much safer!
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