/ First Ice Screws

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mmmhumous on 28 Jun 2013
The usual which screws question....

I can afford 4 to 5 screws, which will mainly be used for UK winter (up to grade V). I'll get a long one for threads, but what sizes should the other 3-4 be? I was thinking all/mainly short, then buying mediums later when I can afford them.

I've only used crap old school screws and BD express screws so far, but am sold on the idea that it's worth investing in easy-place versions. With that in mind, any views on which type to go for?

I've been looking at BD Express, Grivel 360 or Grivel Helix.
ice.solo - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to mmmhumous:

you may find 360s more expensive, but its worth having at least one for restricted placements.

this idea of a 22cm for threads then the rest short would work. probably wouldnt make them 'shortest' (as in 10cms) but 13s, maybe with a 16 (so you can use the 22 and 16 for belays).

old turbo expresses can still sometimes be found at good prices. no little twirley handle, but still not too hard to place.
top cat - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to mmmhumous:

I have a 22cm BD express turbo, most recent design, still in shop packaging, obviously unused

also 13/16/19 of the same. Contact me if interested.

TC
In reply to mmmhumous: You won't go far wrong with any of those.

Telemark Pyrenees have some great prices on 16 cm BDs at the mo' http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/blackdiamondexpressicescrews-p-732.html
smithaldo - on 29 Jun 2013
In reply to mmmhumous: for scotland, dont bother with a long one for threads, to be honest for scottish routes I would just go with the 5 x16 from telemark pyrennes.
BnB - on 29 Jun 2013
In reply to mmmhumous: Thread gear is rare for Scotland. And I'd be wary of advice to aim around 16-19. Often in the UK 10-13 is all the ice you've got to play with. Yes, keep some long ones for the belay with nice stances but figure on finding the short screws pretty handy. A protruding long screw tied off with a clove hitch is fundamentally weaker than a short one buried to the hilt/handle. I have two of each at 10, 13, 16, and a couple of long ones. Would then figure on taking 4-8 on the climb depending on conditions. In your budget I'd go:

1 x 10
2 x 13
2 x 16
1 x 19

And rely on rock gear for most of the belay.

Yes, I know that's 6 but you should find a bargain at this time of year. I bought three Petal Laser Sonics new for 25 each this Spring. They are very good to place and outstanding value if you can find them anywhere near that price.

mmmhumous on 17 Jul 2013
In reply to mmmhumous:

Thanks all!

My winter partners have 3-5 of their own screws, so just want a few to get me going. We going to Rjukan early next year so wanted to make sure we had at least 10 screws between us. My mate's just got a set of lasers, so I'll have a play with his.
CurlyStevo - on 17 Jul 2013
In reply to mmmhumous:
bd express are the best I've used and rack nicely too. I had a grivel 360 but didn't like it and sold it on.
ads.ukclimbing.com
CurlyStevo - on 17 Jul 2013
In reply to mmmhumous:
I would get one of each of the lengths if I was you
ie 10cm, 13cm, 16 cm, 19cm, 22cm. From there you will likely mostly want screws in the range 13 -> 19 cm. For brittle well climbed (and cracked / screwed) euro ice 19cm ones feel much safer!

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