/ Options for small-width cams?
I've currently got DMM Dragons 1-5 on my rack, and was considering of getting the 0 and 00 to complete the set. However, all these cams are the same width and thus would have been no use in that pocket - which appeared to be the only option for a bomber placement.
What narrower cams would people recommend? Would the DMM 3CUs be the way to go?
I've been in exactly the same situation a few times recently and after spending a good while looking at various things in various climbing shops have decided to put some Black Diamond C3s on my birthday and Christmas wish lists.
Best option would be Black Diamond C3 or perhaps Totem cams...
There was an interesting cam coming from the states as well, but they might not be available anymore... Splitter Gear 2Cams and 4Cams ( http://www.angelfire.com/trek/coolclimbinggear/protection.html )
The DMM 3CUS are not made below a size 1 anymore and aren't really any narrower than the latest model of 4cu in that size anyway.
the largest C3 is quite a lot smaller than a size 1 dragon so may have been too small.....
Aliens used to be the way to go but now they are UIAA rated they cost too much :-(
depending on the exact shape of the pocket a 4cu may well have fitted (despite it apparently measureing wider as the axel pivots are included in the width measurement but often dont limit placement).
For small width cams the BD X4 look nice, the BD C3 are great in micro placements. The metolius master cams are also something you may want to look at but apparently corrode easily when exposed to salt water.
There is also esoteric stuff around like sliders.
The small pink tricam is great as it will go in any pocket my thumb does. I carry a set of alloy offsets and small black, white and pink tricams on a krab - it gets me out of trouble quite often!
According to my database:
Dragon 1 (20-33mm) width 40.2mm
Camalot X4 0.5 (19.6-33.5mm) width 33.7mm
Totem 0.8 (17-27mm) width 32mm
Below that, you're into tricams and the like:
the x4 and totem basic are both narrower, the 4cu has more bunched together lobes but the pivots are quite wide (but as mentioned often don't limit placement and allow it to go where the same size dragon will not). I personally think a few 4cus (sizes 1,2,3) compliment a set of dragons nicely. Micro cams then for sizes smaller than the smallest dragon. Obviously you wouldn't need to carry all the cams on most routes!
tricams are just too much of a faff to place on routes above VS for me.
They're there (as Fixe Aliens), but I can't find a head width for them online.
I considered getting some but then decided on the BD C3's.
I hear DMM are working on some microcams too.....
is it me or does soft metal and a 16 degree camming angle seem like a step backwards?
I'd prefer hard metal and 13.75 myself.
Wow Alan - that's a seriously geeky spreadsheet! But I was just about to do something similar, so nice one! :)
You don't have the width for the DMM 3cu's in there... as they're going at about half the price of the X4s and Totem's, it would be interesting to know if they would fit the bill? I know they are supposed to be a fair bit narrower.
I guess they are being discontinued in anticipation of the DMM micro cams that another poster has suggested they are developing?
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