/ Options for small-width cams?

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Bertbee - on 02 Jul 2013
Before taking a big fall the other day, I recall passing a small pocket that would have been great to pop a cam into - but it was just too narrow to fit any of my cams in.

I've currently got DMM Dragons 1-5 on my rack, and was considering of getting the 0 and 00 to complete the set. However, all these cams are the same width and thus would have been no use in that pocket - which appeared to be the only option for a bomber placement.

What narrower cams would people recommend? Would the DMM 3CUs be the way to go?
jwa - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to Bertbee:

I've been in exactly the same situation a few times recently and after spending a good while looking at various things in various climbing shops have decided to put some Black Diamond C3s on my birthday and Christmas wish lists.
needvert on 02 Jul 2013
biscuit - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to Bertbee:

I've got 3 of these and use them a lot. Very handy sizes.

http://www.rockrun.com/products/DMM-3CU-Cams.html
HeMa on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to Bertbee:

Best option would be Black Diamond C3 or perhaps Totem cams...

There was an interesting cam coming from the states as well, but they might not be available anymore... Splitter Gear 2Cams and 4Cams ( http://www.angelfire.com/trek/coolclimbinggear/protection.html )
CurlyStevo - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to Bertbee:
The DMM 3CUS are not made below a size 1 anymore and aren't really any narrower than the latest model of 4cu in that size anyway.
CurlyStevo - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to jwa:
the largest C3 is quite a lot smaller than a size 1 dragon so may have been too small.....
Offwidth - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to Bertbee:

Aliens used to be the way to go but now they are UIAA rated they cost too much :-(
CurlyStevo - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to Bertbee:
depending on the exact shape of the pocket a 4cu may well have fitted (despite it apparently measureing wider as the axel pivots are included in the width measurement but often dont limit placement).

For small width cams the BD X4 look nice, the BD C3 are great in micro placements. The metolius master cams are also something you may want to look at but apparently corrode easily when exposed to salt water.
Offwidth - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:

There is also esoteric stuff around like sliders.
Toerag - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to Bertbee: Tricam is the way to go - narrower cams don't have the expansion range. I think a size 1 dragon has the narrowest head width of any cam in it's expansion range?
The small pink tricam is great as it will go in any pocket my thumb does. I carry a set of alloy offsets and small black, white and pink tricams on a krab - it gets me out of trouble quite often!
Monkey_Alan - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to Toerag:
> (In reply to Bertbee) Tricam is the way to go - narrower cams don't have the expansion range. I think a size 1 dragon has the narrowest head width of any cam in it's expansion range?

According to my database:
Dragon 1 (20-33mm) width 40.2mm
Camalot X4 0.5 (19.6-33.5mm) width 33.7mm
Totem 0.8 (17-27mm) width 32mm

Below that, you're into tricams and the like:
http://alanblanchflower.co.uk/climbing/cams.php?sz=25&rg=full&sort=Width&order=ASC
CurlyStevo - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to Toerag:
the x4 and totem basic are both narrower, the 4cu has more bunched together lobes but the pivots are quite wide (but as mentioned often don't limit placement and allow it to go where the same size dragon will not). I personally think a few 4cus (sizes 1,2,3) compliment a set of dragons nicely. Micro cams then for sizes smaller than the smallest dragon. Obviously you wouldn't need to carry all the cams on most routes!
CurlyStevo - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to Monkey_Alan:
tricams are just too much of a faff to place on routes above VS for me.
Offwidth - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to Monkey_Alan:

The new aliens are CE rated and they also do offsets which are amazing for peg scars, you need an update!

http://www.fixehardware.com/shop/cch-aliens/
Monkey_Alan - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to Offwidth:
They're there (as Fixe Aliens), but I can't find a head width for them online.
GridNorth - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to Monkey_Alan: These may be what you are looking for in their new guise: http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Camming-Devices/Micro-Cams/Basic-Cam#....

I considered getting some but then decided on the BD C3's.
CurlyStevo - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to GridNorth:
I hear DMM are working on some microcams too.....
CurlyStevo - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to Offwidth:
is it me or does soft metal and a 16 degree camming angle seem like a step backwards?

I'd prefer hard metal and 13.75 myself.
cyberpunk - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to Bertbee: BD C3 have the narrowest head can on the market by far.
ads.ukclimbing.com
alooker - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to Bertbee: bd c3s and totem basics are great alternatives to wide baby dragons
Bertbee - on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to Monkey_Alan:

Wow Alan - that's a seriously geeky spreadsheet! But I was just about to do something similar, so nice one! :)

You don't have the width for the DMM 3cu's in there... as they're going at about half the price of the X4s and Totem's, it would be interesting to know if they would fit the bill? I know they are supposed to be a fair bit narrower.

I guess they are being discontinued in anticipation of the DMM micro cams that another poster has suggested they are developing?

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