I am trying to compile a list of 50 cracks I can climb in the next 7 weeks as prep for a trip to squamish. I am aware that largely it will be poor preparation for the smooth granite, but hey ho, I like a good challenge.
Any ideas for good cracks upto E4 in the fingers and hands range? My initial stab is below (based on previous similar posts on here and things i've already done), gonna be quite a good few weeks. Obviously grit is going to feature heavily, so extra points for none grit suggestions, especially things at tremadog or the welsh mountains. The lakes too, not got much from there on my list. No fairhead please, been this year, can't afford that bloody ferry again!
Also, they dont have to be pure cracks. Anything with a crux requiring jams is good, like ratline (the only bolted route on my list so far). But no cracks that climb like a face route, left wall for example. Bolted good too, partial to a bit of sport climbing.
Based in Stockport.
Let me know.
Regent Street E2 Milstone
Snickersnack E3 Gable Crag
The Asp E3 Stanage
Fingerlicker E4 Tremadog.
Twikker E3 Milstone.
Saville Street E3 Milstone.
Meirionydd E1 Tremadog.
Boadicea E2 Houghton Quarry
SuperCrack E3 Wilton
Boulervarde E3 Laurencefield
Come to the Dervish E3 Vivian Quarry
Calamity Crack E4 Running Hill Pits.
Ratline 7b Harpour Hill
Foil E3 Cromlech
Bob Hope E4 Dovestones
The Toy E1 Curbar
Hands / Fists
The File VS Higgar Tor
Bond Street HVS Milstone
The Grond E2 Dinas Cromlech.
Imposition E1 Ramshaw
Valkery (First pitch) HVS Froggat
The Vice E1 Stanage.
Harvest E4 Stanage
Neb Direct E4 Tremadog
Carls Wall Crack E2 Stoney
Western Front E3 Almscliff
Dexterity E1 Milstone
The Crank & Masochism at Ramshaw
All the Embankment routes at Millstone
Herford's Crack on Clogwyn y Tarw
Bird's Nest Crack & Traditional Climb at Almscliff
Some of the classic HVS++s at Hen Cloud?
Razor Crack at Neckband?
yeah, agreed, have done foil but havent done the asp or the dervish. In any case, not a slate fan so suits me.
True Grit has been added.
In reply to All:
Keep them coming...remember, looking for none grit options too. Wanna spread it out for interest. And a few easier ones too. May end up in quite a state after trying the list that is forming. Will create a UKC tick list.
They say Run Fast Run Free (very bottom end E5) is a nice crack, but I haven't done it. In general I'd say Gogarth is not much use for your purpose - the rock (on, eg, Winking Crack) tends to be too featured and thus allowing cheating non-cracky methods.
In reply to snoop6060: what a good idea. When you are finished can you post it here for the rest of us. And if you complete it can you put up a post with you recomemdations. It would make a cool coffee table book or select guide book. 50 cracks and then maybe 3-5 other routes at each venue to warm up on.
Pity you cannot get to fairhead.
Overhanging crack - Dovestone Edge
Plenty of stuff at Wimberry - The Trident, Blasphemy, Freddie's Finale etc
Tom Thumb - cratcliffe
Robert - Kinder south
Carls Wark Crack & Medusa - stoney
Synopsis, Great Crack, Big Crack, Chequers crack - Froggatt
Great Crack & Grand Cleft - Wild cat
The Golden Tower - Anglezarke Quarry
Knightsbridge and almost every route at millstone
Undercut Crack - Bamford
Falling Crack - wilton 2
Wipe Out, Central Route - wilton 1 and loads of other stuff
Thin Red Line & Forked Lightning Crack (need to do try this) Heptonstall
Zeus - Burbage south
Foord's Folly and plenty of other stuff at Ramshaw
Ping and Ping pong - Water-cum-Jolly
Pollux - Agden Rocher
The Rat - Ladybower Quarry
Flake Crack - Helsby
Dateline - pex and probably some other stuff
Deadbay Crack, Sorrell's Sorrow, Saddy, Elder Crack, Insanity - curbar
Sentenal crack - chatsworth (need to try this one too)
Aye, true about fairhead. Tho was there in June and have done stuff like Jolly Rodger, Halloween, salango and GBH. And a ton of the corners. I may just add them to the list and give myself a head start!
> (In reply to Jonny2vests)
> Yep, though I expect people will say, downhill racer and that has scared the life out of me ever since I saw it. I am basically too much of a pussy for that sort of business!
> Well protected slabs maybe, though we dont actually have many of those here. Maybe you don't over in Squamish? In fact don't answer that, I am going with the mindset that everything is mega safe!
TBH, you can have a great time in Squamish and not set foot on a slab.
Come and join the fun. I expect there will be blood and plenty of tears. This is the first draft though as there is nothing at hen cloud and I plan to go there this week. May drop the yorkshire contingent and replace with whatever horror shows I find at hen cloud. I've just left yorkshire, im not ready to go back just yet
Good news is Ive already done 24% of em, so I can fall of them without blowing any precious onsight points!
Well I've done 38 on your list. But that took me 25 years, good luck in 7 weeks. I'll buy you something as a token of respect if you can on sight all of those in 7 weeks. I would add Emerald Crack at Chatsworth, because it's class, technical and gnarly. The Mangler at Stanage because it's one of the few genuine offwidths in the UK. Centaur at Stanage because it makes the Vice look reasonable. Quietus is hard to do without decent jamming skills. The Gates of Mordor is also proper jamming.
In reply to snoop6060: Bolted cracks are a rarity in the uk but there's a couple on Trench Wall at Penmaen Head that I put up a couple of years ago. Insurrection and Riot, both about 6c/6c+ and closely bolted (except above the last clip on Riot which is safe but a little run out). The cracks are obvious enough - you can see them as you wizz along the A55. My mates and I thought they were good steep lines - put your thoughts on the log book if you do them.
Has anyone suggested The Bulger at Bowderstone Crag? Proper fingers and quite brutal, if I recall, but well-protected. Probably at the top end of your requested grade band; not sure if it still gets E4 in the definitive guide, but I note it's E5 in the database.
> (In reply to David Bennett)
> Gonna do london wall when I get back. Saving it.
There are some brilliant London Wall training sessions to be had here
Obvious stuff like the Exasperator (10c), Rutabaga (11b), Yorkshire Gripper (11c), Crime of the Century (11c), Sentry Box (12a) etc. Then there's less obvious stuff not in the guide because its next to the (not busy) railway line and out of bounds (called the 'Lower Malamute'), but there's often a crowd down there; Clean Crack (11c), Crescent Crack (10d?); two of the best cracks in Canada.
Then there's a stonking brand new area called the Top Shelf which is MEGA at 10d and up, loads of vertical crack lines which is nice as not that much reaches vertical here, best find in several decades apparently!
Not been to squamish but my memory of yosemite granite is being surprised how smooth and frictionless it was, especially the faces either side of the crack, so dont rely too much on gritstone and other grippy stuff! Make sure to spend a good bit of time on slippery slate, and perhaps even some granite? Theres good chunks of it in Cornwall and Scotland, I've heard...
In reply to snoop6060:
Here are some in the south (and one in the far north), all of these venues have many more cracks to offer.
Crack in the Sky
Dolphin Cracks HVS
Super Jam E5
Don's Long Gone F6b+
In reply to Rob Davies: I forgot to mention, if you're in London, the top-rope crack at the Westway wall (hands / baggy hands) graded F7a for all the skinny wee tots who have not yet learnt jamming - actually about Yorkshire 5b. Doing this several times is possible training for long North American cracks.
The thing you don't get on cracks here in the UK that you get in North America is length - they need real stamina.
I also forgot to mention the venerable Flake Crack at Helsby (VS 4c) - easy but good.
> First third – I knew the Yanks couldn’t jam – all that taping up, bunch of girls – this is piss, never 5.7
> Second third – actually, I see what they mean; it does go on a bit - wonder if that’s a rest up there?
> Last third – f*ck, it isn’t, pant, burn, pant, flail, watch me, WATCH ME, HAVE YOU GOT ME??? – slump. After that, it's not usually pretty.
In reply to snoop6060: As per Chris Craggs, a day on the trad cracks of Hen Cloud, then polish it off with Mincer, Matinee and Saul's at the Roaches; also fond memories of Winking from 40 years ago, when a MOAC chockstone was the biggest thing around your neck - still have the scars to remind me!
Another vote for Hen Cloud and in particular Delstree HVS as its fairly sustained hands. You could always miss out the occasional foot holds that appear to the side of the crack to make it more granite-esque.
While you're up doing Grond, jump on The Monster on the upper tier at the Cromlech as the crux relies on finger locks IIRC (?).
Agree with jcm 100% about the unrelenting length of North American cracks. Best training would be running laps on something like dexterity at Millstone, though I can't see how you can restart quickly enough to simulate a single 40m pitch without toproping.
Yeah, I think the focus is going to be on mileage to be honest. In any case, I made a good start on these and did about 10 of them, then the weather got really good and the mountains started calling me.
I'd rather just go unfit then spend these sunny days in quarries!
As soon as it cools down, some enduro style challenges at millstone and hen cloud are on the cards.