/ No climbing at Ty Newydd (A55 Crags)

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lewk_c on 03 Jul 2013
Planned to spend the evening climbing at Ty Newydd but when we go the there was a sign saying that climbing is not allowed at the moment.
So was just wondering if anyone knows why and also a heads up to save you the walk.
doylo - on 03 Jul 2013
In reply to lewk_c:

It wasn't a BMC sign?
lewk_c on 03 Jul 2013
In reply to doylo:
No, a printed laminated one on the post after the gate. There has also been a small chain and krab added to the gate too.
Simon Caldwell - on 04 Jul 2013
In reply to lewk_c:
I'm not aware of any changes here - the landowner has not contacted the BMC to tell us of any changes to the agreement and for some reason his phone appears out of order so have been unable to contact him.
The sign could be an old one that was (and should still be) covered up and is intended for the "closed season" at this crag, which doesn't start until the autumn. If anyone is aware that there is a geunine access issue then please get back to me.

Elfyn Jones
BMC Access & Conservation Officer (Wales)
Luke Owens - on 04 Jul 2013
In reply to lewk_c:

I was there just over a week ago and could only see the usual BMC sign.

I did notice some strange things at the crag though. Alot of the greenary around the base of the crag has been churned up and also a boulder has been moved at the bottom of the route "Clitoris Allsorts".

There was also rubbish at the crag which I cleaned up. I'm not sure if any of this has anything to do with a new sign being added by the landowner.

I really hope not as losing access to this great crag would be terrible.
lewk_c on 04 Jul 2013
In reply to Elfyn Jones BMC Cymru/Wales:
Thanks Elfyn, I was going to email you as the RAD does not say anything. I was there the week before and there sign was not on the post then. Bit of a pain to walk all (I know its not that far) the way in before finding out :)
rockcat - on 05 Jul 2013
In reply to lewk_c:An update on this having checked the situation today: The BMC sign is still there and inside the gate screwed to a post is a sign:

"WARNING ALL CLIMBING SUSPENDED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE".

This sign was there over the winter.

Bearing in mind that some effort has gone into making it, I very strongly suspect that it was put there by the shooters rather than the farmer. As it no longer applies, it should be taken down. The access slope to the crag is more bare than it was but there are no other changes.
Elfyn Jones is off on holiday and a bin bag will be put over the sign as a temporary measure.
Please keep strictly to the access agreement to avoid further problems.



> Planned to spend the evening climbing at Ty Newydd but when we go the there was a sign saying that climbing is not allowed at the moment.
> So was just wondering if anyone knows why and also a heads up to save you the walk.

alexkitts - on 05 Jul 2013
I was down there the other day, and the green plastic bag that usually covers that sign (the non-BMC one) had blown off, also I think the disturbance to the base of the crag is due to someone using a 4x4 there, I was down there once when the 4x4 was stuck and they had hammered an anchor into the ground underneath clitoris allsortsto winch it out. They had also left loads of litter, like drinks cans around the base of the crag
Luke Owens - on 05 Jul 2013
In reply to alexkitts:

Ah, that clarify's my above post.

I cleaned up the rubbish but was rather confused by what had happend there. Make's sense now thanks.
lewk_c on 05 Jul 2013
In reply to rockcat: Thanks for clarifying and just in time for some great weather too. Another vote for stressing and sticking to the sensitive access agrements.
Interesting to hear about the 4x4 though.
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rockcat - on 05 Jul 2013
In reply to Luke Owens: Nice one Luke. Shame they aren't as responsible as the climbing community.

> (In reply to alexkitts)
>
> Ah, that clarify's my above post.
>
> I cleaned up the rubbish but was rather confused by what had happend there. Make's sense now thanks.


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