/ Suggestions on Alpine routes

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
kevinroet - on 07 Jul 2013
As per previous post, just completed the Frendo. Can anyone suggest similar style climbing on other routes around the Mont Blanc Massif. Looking for some inspiration, Walker Spur would be great, but not at that level yet.
Al Randall on 07 Jul 2013
In reply to kevinroet: N.N.East Spur on the Courtes. Fair bit easier but more serious. For day trips there are several good routes on the rock triangle of Mont Blanc Du Tacul. Contamine Grissole, Contamine Mazeaud, Chere couloir etc. Taking in the summit gets you to over 4000 metres. The Maginot route on the Chardonnet is very good as is the Gervassuti Pillar although in good conditions that is really a rock route with a glacier approach and descent. If you can don't miss the Rebuffat route on the Midi, it provides wonderful climbing at about E1 5b and you don't need to take much gear. I also seem to recall the the Swiss route on the Courtes is good but mostly snow/ice.
kevinroet - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to kevinroet: Thanks for suggestions Al, we went to have a look at Swiss route on Thursday, but conditions arent great. Unless you are able to climb the route in 3 hours and descent in a similar time, the exposure to avalanches, rock fall, etc... is way to high. Best be kept in spring, when there is less exposure to the sun on the route.
Charlie Boscoe - on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to kevinroet: How about the Kuffner/Frontier Ridge on Mont Maudit. Not technically that difficult, but really exposed cramponing, and takes you through some of the best scenery in the Alps.
jcw on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to kevinroet: The Central spur and the Austrian routes are good mixed routes on the Courtes and reasonably safe though the descent remains the same. What about the Pilier Damilano on the Tacul, a pleasant mixed route and not top of the pops!
kevinroet - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to kevinroet: we had a look at the swiss route and the austrian route, but the descent via the north north east couloir needs to be done before 7-8 in the morning as the sun will be shining on it early on. Last week a dutch guy I spoke to go caught in an avalanche on that slope.

Also the snow at the top of Les Courtes is only in good condition before 6-6.30 in the morning, as first rays of sun really affects the firmness of the snow. Which then does not leave us a lot of time to climb the ridge, as we need to allow some time for the snow there to freeze a little.

We'll do les courtes in the spring time. Safer option

I'll have a look at the other route you suggested.

thanks
matus - on 11 Jul 2013
Grand Rocheuse,NE spur.
Nice, long, reasonable grade, but not as good rock as Frendo, or just we did not follow the correct line.
lowersharpnose - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to kevinroet:

Practice for the Walker, maybe

The Cordier Piller on the Grande Charmoz - lots of pitches finishes at the top.

Gervasutti Pillar - again lots of pitches, finishes on top of a mountain and you have to get down (clearly).
Deviant - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to kevinroet:

I know it doesn't exactly fit your criteria, but climbing M.Blanc by the "Voie Royale" is a spectacular outing :

Concrits hut / Domes de Miage / Durier hut / Aiguille de Bionassay/ Mont Blanc and return via 3 Monts route.

kevinroet - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to kevinroet: I wanna do some proper alpine climbing, not a really long and hard walk. (Dont mean to offend)
Deviant - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to kevinroet:

No offence taken ! Only a walk, but the traverse of the Aiguille de Bionassay is pretty spectacular !


I've done the Walker Spur, the Kuffner and the Couturier on the Aiguille Verte, but didn't enjoy them as much as the "voie Royale". A climb isn't "better" just because it's D+ or TD !

GridNorth - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to Deviant: That's a pretty sweeping statement. In reality it depends on the individual and their expectations I personally, for example, would not get the same enjoyment from what is essentially a walk as I would a technically demanding climb so you see my expectations would be different to yours. Beauty or in this case being better is in the eye of the beholder.
Deviant - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to GridNorth:

I didn't express myself particularly well, but the number of climbers who think it's all grade do get on my tits.

The important thing is to enjoy what we do !


jon on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to Deviant:

Just a little point, the Voie Royale is the normale Goûter Route. The (magnificent) traverse you describe is the Traversée Royale. I'm with you, it's a fabulous trip. It was the way I first did MB, years ago: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=137604 http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=136344 though we did descend via the Gonella and not down to the Midi.
kevinroet - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to kevinroet: hi deviant, i prefer climbing, for me its not the grades that count, I prefer to travel vertically, to horizontally at an angle. Personal choice.

We did walk from the Midi to the montevers train the other day, very spectacular, and beautiful. But personally I get bored if the adrenaline isnt pumping
cyberpunk - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to kevinroet: This is very very good
Petites Jorasses (Mont Blanc), W-Wand
“Anouk"

jcw on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to kevinroet:one possibility you might think of if you go to the Envers for a long route is the Roc Grepon traverse assuming the Ryan or Crocodile are not. on. If you wanted to do it an adventurous way you coul do the Roc by Subtiltes Dulferiennes. That route of itself is a marvelous piece of climbing. I presume that in present conditions anything mixed is out. Good luck
Lew13 - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to kevinroet:

Kuffner is well worth doing albeit has less climbing on it than Frendo.

Swiss Route on Grand Capucin if you like your rock?
a lakeland climber on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to kevinroet:

The previously mentioned Cordier Pillar on the Charmoz is excellent, about UK HVS in grade.

If you are working your way up to the Walker then the following might be worth looking at:

East face of Le Moine
Contamine Route on the Petites Jorasses
Gervasutti Pillar
One of the Pillars on the South face of Le Dru
The NE Spur of Les Droites

All conditions dependent of course.

ALC
jon on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to Lew13:
> (In reply to kevinroet)
>
> Kuffner is well worth doing albeit has less climbing on it than Frendo.

It does however go to the top of a mountain and not straight into an amusement arcade.
ads.ukclimbing.com

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.