/ Recommend me a uk 8a :)

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Daniel Heath - on 08 Jul 2013
Strengths:
-Monos,pockets
-cracks
-endurance
-rests

Weaknesses
-power
-accuracy
-control
-body strength

Any suggestions?

Peak is closest for me but open to more distant crags. Anstey's is probably too far.

Thanks!
Dan
Adam Lincoln - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

The Bulge - Kilnsey.
Cold Steal - Kilnsey.
Blue Straggler - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Go and nick Robin's project at Hangingstone :-)
davo - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Dead Calm at Kilnsey.

Thought Cold Steal was hard myself but I am bad on the vert.

If LPT is within striking distance:

Mussel Beach and Parasite are also good but quite steep.

Dave
davo - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Sorry - didn't read that Peak was close. In that case:

Free Monster at WCJ Cornice. One bouldery section but mostly power endurance.

Roof Warrior at Cheedale. Steep but really good holds.
Dennis999 - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Feeling strong at the minute then Dan? :)
Daniel Heath - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to Dennis999:

I've got lots of time, and never really put several days into a project so this would be a good opportunity.

Thanks for the replies. I tried Mussel Beach and don't think I have the power endurance after moving past the incredibly steep undercut.
Ally Smith on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Statement of Youth is much more a stamina based route than Mussel Beach, and the top third is on a pockety crack - might suit you? Don't expect it to be a soft touch though!

If you found Mussel Beach hard, then Davo's suggestion of Free Monster would probably shut you down too?

IMHO the finest stamina route in the Peak is The Prow (in one) at Raven Tor. Nothing desperate, but there is 40m of climbing involved! It's all dry at the moment, and there's even in-situ draws until Aly completes his RP.
Daniel Heath - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:

Sounds good, as I'd love to do Body Machine which would be a good progression. Also gonna try Boot Boys again there.

Thanks
shark - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:
> (In reply to Daniel Heath)
>
> IMHO the finest stamina route in the Peak is The Prow (in one) at Raven Tor. Nothing desperate, but there is 40m of climbing involved! It's all dry at the moment, and there's even in-situ draws until Aly completes his RP.


Some of us went to a bit of trouble the other year to clear the perma-draws from the crag and it looks a whole lot better for it. I have messaged Ali on Facebook and asked he takes his out.

For more background: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18154.175.html
davo - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to shark:

I know this is a thread about 8as in the peak but I am curious about your reasons for disliking leaving draws in.

I participated in the last discussion on UKb and still remain unconvinced. Just curious really about your reasoning.

Cheers Dave
Daniel Heath - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Ruby Fruit Jungle any good?

It's not too steep so I expect the holds are tiny!
Daniel Heath - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to shark:

Thanks for drawing my attention to this issue.
shark - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to davo:
> (In reply to shark)
>
> I know this is a thread about 8as in the peak but I am curious about your reasons for disliking leaving draws in.
>
> I participated in the last discussion on UKb and still remain unconvinced. Just curious really about your reasoning.
>
> Cheers Dave



It is owned by the National Trust and is a beauty spot admired by walkers. Rupert said that a group of NT members he talked to neither liked nor understood situ gear. At the time situ gear was proliferating at the tor at a time when Derbyshire Wildlife had already complained about the visible situ gear in Chee Dale. They are noticed. These are the main reasons why - ie respect for other users and the landowner and being pre-emptive in response rather than waiting for a complaint and potential access issue.
Joughton on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath: I had a play on Abberation at Two Tier in Cheedale yesterday, it's a really nice route. The moves are pretty sequence-y but the crux isn't mega hard - I managed all the moves on the first dogged attempt, so I imagine you'll be fine on it. It traverses a fair bit so it's a bit of a faff to work but some clever rope stuff makes it easier. It's also never steeper than vertical but still manages to be a stamina test, dunno if that appeals to you?

Let me know if you need an 8a buddy this summer as I have similar goals and amounts of free time! I'd also be very psyched to try the Prow in a oner... going away on a non climbing trip for two weeks but I'll get in touch when I'm back.
Daniel Heath - on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to Joughton:

Thanks Jake. I'll be free again later Aug and Sept.
mark20 - on 17 Jul 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thormen's Moth? Apparently it's dry now too
Adam Lincoln - on 17 Jul 2013
In reply to mark20:
> (In reply to Daniel Heath)
> Thormen's Moth? Apparently it's dry now too

Did you read his weaknesses? ;-)

Troy Tempest - on 17 Jul 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Three Pebble Slab
wolverine - on 18 Jul 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath: got on RF Jungle the other night - old scool crimping. if your good at that. then it's a goer i recon!. happy to work it together?
Mike
RupertD - on 18 Jul 2013
In reply to shark:

To add to what shark said, access to other crags down this valley is becoming problematical. The NT currently don't have a problem with the Tor, but lets not push their buttons.
Daniel Heath - on 18 Jul 2013
In reply to mark20:

Looks cool but probably quite hard for me in my current weak state. You should try it and report back!
Bulls Crack - on 18 Jul 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:
> Strengths:
> -Monos,pockets
> -cracks
> -endurance
> -rests


I'm good a resting too

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