/ 1st trip to Stanage - which guidebook?

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fawlty on 09 Jul 2013
Hi UKC,

I'm off to Stanage at the weekend for the first time to get some trad leads under my belt and am looking for suggestions as to which guide to get please.
I like the look of the definitive BMC book for its completeness, but hope to be back to other crags in the area in future so maybe Eastern Grit is more suitable especially as I'm new to the area, new to trad etc?
Whats the coverage like in Eastern Grit? Does anyone have any misgivings about one or the other that might help me choose? I have read the reviews on here, still in two minds.
Also, I can only afford one of them unfortunately, so buying both is out of the question!

Thanks all in advance
f
deepsoup - on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to fawlty:
The latest series of BMC guides are superb, but if you can only afford the one book its probably better to make it Eastern Grit. All the best routes are in there, and you can always cadge a look through someone else's definitive guide at the crag.
(You're not likely to be the only climber at Stanage. ;o)
alooker - on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to fawlty: eastern grit has plenty to go at!
b.hayley - on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to fawlty:
It all depends on how much time you're likely to spend climbing on grit in the peak. If you are local or make the trip regularly then get the definitive guides. They are truly a joy to own with all the extra information that they have from history of climbing on the areas covered to input form the researchers on favourite routes. All can be very inspiring. Also the bouldering information simply isn't in the rockfax. However, bothe eastern and western grit are excellent guides their clear no nonsense presentation is easy to use and they contain more climbing than could be done in a lifetime. Either set of guides are great. I have both and still he both depending on whether we have already agreed where we're going or of we will be more flexible. The full set of Bmc guides take up a significant amount of room in a rucksack!
fawlty on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to deepsoup, a.looker & b.hayley:

thanks all for the info - I think I'll get a copy of EG for now, as I'm sadly not too close to the area and will probably be up there 3-4 times a year at most, so the BMC book is probably overkill (even if it would be splendid to flick through of an evening). Maybe one day the Finances will stretch to the full set - loved the Roaches when I went there a few years back so definitely planning a return, and any excuse as they say...

Can't wait to get up to Stanage now!
Cheers
f

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