/ NEWS: Indian Face E9 for James McHaffie

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
UKC News - on 09 Jul 2013
Sophie Evitt and James McHaffie at Brimham Rocks, Yorkshire., 5 kbNot content with The Indian Face (E9) he's climbed Gribbin Wall Climb (E9) too.

The dry weather has spurred on some hard ascents, and James McHaffie has been leading the way on UK trad once again...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68205

Tradical - on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News: Lots of hard climbing going on at the moment, very inspirational stuff! Please keep up the good stuff.
PopShot on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News: Me and my friend are thinking of trying this on a top rope to see how far we get :)
Dom Whillans on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News:
Has Popshot not heard about this yet? I'd have thought that he'd have been moaning about it being the Indian Face coming over here, stealing all our chop routes, what's wrong with the English Face....
Huge congratulations to James. I started climbing the summer after IF was put up and it's always been the pinnacle of British climbing to me; the arguments that went on, and continue to go on around it, and the mythology which has developed are things that I love about our sport.
Dom Whillans on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to PopShot:
Ah, there he is...
ripper - on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to PopShot:
> (In reply to UKC News) Me and my friend are thinking of trying this on a top rope to see how far we get :)

ah, now that was just too obvious...
Dave 88 - on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Amazing stuff. Can't believe this is only the fourth ascent (not that I'm queuing up to get on it!). Is this the first person to get this in a day?
Tyler - on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to Dave 88:

Fifth isn't it? Dawes, Dixon, Gresham and MacLeod
Flashy - on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to Tyler: I'm not sure of MacLeod did it -- didn't he decide it wasn't for him? Or did he go back again and I missed it?
mr mills - on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to Flashy:

Dave McLeod 4th ascent.....
papashango - on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News:

What was the story with the Master's Wall onsight attempt?
thermal_t - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to papashango:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> What was the story with the Master's Wall onsight attempt?

I've read an account of it somewhere before and it made me sweat all over! I seem to remember that his belayer had to run to the top to lower a rope down to him, effectively leaving him unroped on the face. I might have that wrong though. Anyone got a link to the story?
Motown - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to papashango:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> What was the story with the Master's Wall onsight attempt?

Went off route, and unable to climb or downclimb had to untie in order that his partner could run to the top and lower one down to him. In the description I read, he was two hours on one tiny foothold. It left him understandably shaken.
thermal_t - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to Motown: Just found this version of it, although I'm sure I've read a better version as well. http://www.newsandstar.co.uk/james-heeded-cloggy-s-final-warning-1.367926?referrerPath=home/2.1962
Pete Ford on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News:

PopShop has a friend, now that is news!

Pete
James Oswald - on 10 Jul 2013
Dave 88 - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to Tyler:

I didn't know Gresham did it. How did I miss that.
a lakeland climber on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to Dave 88:
> (In reply to Tyler)
>
> I didn't know Gresham did it. How did I miss that.

Not reading the guidebook? Neil's article about his ascent is a major part of the introduction to the guide.

Anyway, sarcastic remarks aside, well done to Caff, looks like we are getting closer to an on-sight ascent though I don't know who the contender is likely to be.

ALC

999thAndy on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to a lakeland climber:
DJ Viper, naturally. ;-)
a lakeland climber on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to 999thAndy:

At least it'll be chalked up for a few days, should help him :-)

ALC
ads.ukclimbing.com
Dave 88 - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to a lakeland climber:

Wow, all aboard the banter train. I don't own that guidebook you sarcy tw*t.
Tradical - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to Tyler: I thought Leo did it aswell?
Exile - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to TradRat:

He onsighted Master Wall I think.
centurion05 on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Effort caff, the read of your account in trying to onsight masters wall is prob one of the most unbelievable story I've read. Awesome effort.

Pretty sure the account is in the front of the cloggy book, the one with Trevor messiah on shrike on the cover?
MJ - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to centurion05:

the one with Trevor messiah on shrike on the cover?

Think it's Ed February...
chris fox on 10 Jul 2013
laaljohn - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to papashango:

I remember popping round to a mates house in Ambleside, where Caff was living at the time. I asked him what he'd been up to. His reply was "I had a little scare in Wales, so I've not done much for a couple of weeks." The then read the story of the 'little scare' a month or two later.
simondgee - on 10 Jul 2013
snoop6060 - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to thermal_t:
> (In reply to Motown) Just found this version of it, although I'm sure I've read a better version as well. http://www.newsandstar.co.uk/james-heeded-cloggy-s-final-warning-1.367926?referrerPath=home/2.1962

Anyone know if there is a version of this from James himself?

Sounds like a proper epic! Everyone likes a good epic story.

Nice work on Indian Face. Finally got to cloggy for the first time this week. The line is indeed as good as they say!
Blue Straggler - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to snoop6060:
> (In reply to thermal_t)
> [...]
>
> Anyone know if there is a version of this from James himself?

Coincidentally it is a central part of Caff's IF blog (link in simondgee's post just above yours!). Excellent. He doesn't call it a "slip knot" or say that it should have failed, just says it was a weird slippery hitch
jon on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to Blue Straggler:

A rope with knot and karabiner already in it might have been better, in retrospect.
Blue Straggler - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to jon:

I was quietly wondering about that but hey, heat of the moment, terrified for your friend, benefit of hindsight and all that - everything will have been in a bit of a rush for Adam!
jon on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to Blue Straggler:

Absolutely.
snoop6060 - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to Blue Straggler:

Yeah, just read it. Excellent write up. Gripping story about Masters Edge, sounds and utterly grim way to spend an hour!
snoop6060 - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to Blue Straggler:
> (In reply to jon)
>
> I was quietly wondering about that but hey, heat of the moment, terrified for your friend, benefit of hindsight and all that - everything will have been in a bit of a rush for Adam!

Yeah, you can kinda imagine the guys pain. Its hard enough belaying someone on bold routes, sometimes terrifying even. But cannot imagine what it's like when they are half way up an E8 and are forced to untie so you can save them. I'd be having a panic attack holding the ropes that day!
mike lawrence? - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to snoop6060: I watched James yesterday, very impressive attitude to the whole thing. I think I was considerably more nervous than he was!
John2 - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to snoop6060: Master's Edge?
John_Hat - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to Motown:
> (In reply to papashango)
> [...]
>
> Went off route, and unable to climb or downclimb had to untie in order that his partner could run to the top and lower one down to him. In the description I read, he was two hours on one tiny foothold.

ouch.... not nice....
Zoomer - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News: Been up to Cloggy today watching someone playing on the moves and checking the gear. Route well chalked up....6th ascent soon?
Flashy - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to James Oswald: Thanks.
ads.ukclimbing.com
aln - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News: I like his summing up. Basically, he tried it, then he climbed it.
aln - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to PopShot:
> (In reply to UKC News) Me and my friend are thinking of trying this on a top rope to see how far we get :)

You and DJ Viper?
aln - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to Dave 88:
> (In reply to Tyler)
>
> I didn't know Gresham did it.

I remember it. Till then I thought of him as someone who was good at short hard grit climbs. Then he does the 3rd ascent of this huge mountain death climb. Stands out in my memory.

mark20 - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to Zoomer:
Calum Muskett has just done the 6th ascent
https://twitter.com/dmmclimbing/status/355311345924726784
a lakeland climber on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to mark20:

Nice one!

ALC
Skyfall - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to mark20:

Trade route now then!

Only joking, great to see it still has such a big appeal.
McGuinness - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News: 7th ascent by George Ulrich!
lewk_c on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to McGuinness: It's just like buses...jeez. Awesome effort to Caff, Calum and George. Didn't Mr Dawes say that no one is climbing hard anymore?
GrahamD - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to lewk_c:

> Didn't Mr Dawes say that no one is climbing hard anymore?

Whereas they are climbing just as hard as they were 30 years ago ? I think JDs point was that this is still newsworthy - the benchmark hasn't moved on much.

Michael Gordon - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to lewk_c:

Well he did do it in '86!

It's hardly leading edge nowadays. But it's great that it's seeing so many ascents! Is it now fair to say that much of the route's aura has well and truly been blown apart? Just a very good, very serious E9?
pasbury on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Caff said in his blog: 'The Indian Face is a true headgame with relatively steady climbing (by modern standards) but with the seriousness impeding your performance on it with lots of bits itd be easy to cock up and get scared on.'

Kind of confirms what everybody else has said about it. I think it will have an aura for some time, it's that combination of deadly serious and insecure.

Michael Gordon - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to pasbury:

Obviously it's utterly unique. But three ascents in one week? Must do something for it's aura.
Dr.S at work - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:
is it not just thats its not rained in n wales for a week?
JDal - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to Dr.S at work:

I think you'll find it was a conspiracy ;)
GrahamD - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Ascents 2 and 3 happened within a week, I think ?
Ben_SteepEdge - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

More to do with people being around, holding ropes and the route being climbed. IIRC Neil and Nick both repeated it in close proximity. You see one of your mates on a route and you want to do it yourself.
aln - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News: Wow. There's som fit strong and brave climbers going around just now.
Michael Gordon - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to Ben_SteepEdge:

Yes, that's certainly true.

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.