/ NEWS: Indian Face E9 for James McHaffie
The dry weather has spurred on some hard ascents, and James McHaffie has been leading the way on UK trad once again...
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68205
Has Popshot not heard about this yet? I'd have thought that he'd have been moaning about it being the Indian Face coming over here, stealing all our chop routes, what's wrong with the English Face....
Huge congratulations to James. I started climbing the summer after IF was put up and it's always been the pinnacle of British climbing to me; the arguments that went on, and continue to go on around it, and the mythology which has developed are things that I love about our sport.
Ah, there he is...
ah, now that was just too obvious...
Amazing stuff. Can't believe this is only the fourth ascent (not that I'm queuing up to get on it!). Is this the first person to get this in a day?
Fifth isn't it? Dawes, Dixon, Gresham and MacLeod
Dave McLeod 4th ascent.....
What was the story with the Master's Wall onsight attempt?
> What was the story with the Master's Wall onsight attempt?
I've read an account of it somewhere before and it made me sweat all over! I seem to remember that his belayer had to run to the top to lower a rope down to him, effectively leaving him unroped on the face. I might have that wrong though. Anyone got a link to the story?
> What was the story with the Master's Wall onsight attempt?
Went off route, and unable to climb or downclimb had to untie in order that his partner could run to the top and lower one down to him. In the description I read, he was two hours on one tiny foothold. It left him understandably shaken.
PopShop has a friend, now that is news!
I didn't know Gresham did it. How did I miss that.
> I didn't know Gresham did it. How did I miss that.
Not reading the guidebook? Neil's article about his ascent is a major part of the introduction to the guide.
Anyway, sarcastic remarks aside, well done to Caff, looks like we are getting closer to an on-sight ascent though I don't know who the contender is likely to be.
DJ Viper, naturally. ;-)
At least it'll be chalked up for a few days, should help him :-)
Wow, all aboard the banter train. I don't own that guidebook you sarcy tw*t.
He onsighted Master Wall I think.
Effort caff, the read of your account in trying to onsight masters wall is prob one of the most unbelievable story I've read. Awesome effort.
Pretty sure the account is in the front of the cloggy book, the one with Trevor messiah on shrike on the cover?
the one with Trevor messiah on shrike on the cover?
Think it's Ed February...
Fantastic line at the end of that article by his dad !
I remember popping round to a mates house in Ambleside, where Caff was living at the time. I asked him what he'd been up to. His reply was "I had a little scare in Wales, so I've not done much for a couple of weeks." The then read the story of the 'little scare' a month or two later.
Great writing and climbing
Anyone know if there is a version of this from James himself?
Sounds like a proper epic! Everyone likes a good epic story.
Nice work on Indian Face. Finally got to cloggy for the first time this week. The line is indeed as good as they say!
> Anyone know if there is a version of this from James himself?
Coincidentally it is a central part of Caff's IF blog (link in simondgee's post just above yours!). Excellent. He doesn't call it a "slip knot" or say that it should have failed, just says it was a weird slippery hitch
A rope with knot and karabiner already in it might have been better, in retrospect.
I was quietly wondering about that but hey, heat of the moment, terrified for your friend, benefit of hindsight and all that - everything will have been in a bit of a rush for Adam!
Yeah, just read it. Excellent write up. Gripping story about Masters Edge, sounds and utterly grim way to spend an hour!
> I was quietly wondering about that but hey, heat of the moment, terrified for your friend, benefit of hindsight and all that - everything will have been in a bit of a rush for Adam!
Yeah, you can kinda imagine the guys pain. Its hard enough belaying someone on bold routes, sometimes terrifying even. But cannot imagine what it's like when they are half way up an E8 and are forced to untie so you can save them. I'd be having a panic attack holding the ropes that day!
> Went off route, and unable to climb or downclimb had to untie in order that his partner could run to the top and lower one down to him. In the description I read, he was two hours on one tiny foothold.
ouch.... not nice....
You and DJ Viper?
> I didn't know Gresham did it.
I remember it. Till then I thought of him as someone who was good at short hard grit climbs. Then he does the 3rd ascent of this huge mountain death climb. Stands out in my memory.
Calum Muskett has just done the 6th ascent
Trade route now then!
Only joking, great to see it still has such a big appeal.
Whereas they are climbing just as hard as they were 30 years ago ? I think JDs point was that this is still newsworthy - the benchmark hasn't moved on much.
Well he did do it in '86!
It's hardly leading edge nowadays. But it's great that it's seeing so many ascents! Is it now fair to say that much of the route's aura has well and truly been blown apart? Just a very good, very serious E9?
Caff said in his blog: 'The Indian Face is a true headgame with relatively steady climbing (by modern standards) but with the seriousness impeding your performance on it with lots of bits it’d be easy to cock up and get scared on.'
Kind of confirms what everybody else has said about it. I think it will have an aura for some time, it's that combination of deadly serious and insecure.
Obviously it's utterly unique. But three ascents in one week? Must do something for it's aura.
is it not just thats its not rained in n wales for a week?
I think you'll find it was a conspiracy ;)
Ascents 2 and 3 happened within a week, I think ?
More to do with people being around, holding ropes and the route being climbed. IIRC Neil and Nick both repeated it in close proximity. You see one of your mates on a route and you want to do it yourself.
Yes, that's certainly true.
Elsewhere on the site
Climbing as a discipline offers plentiful metaphors for tackling life's obstacles - bravery, courage, climbing to... Read more
This streamlined, midweight thermal layer has an incredibly speedy moisture wicking ability and dries ultra fast if it gets... Read more
The B.D.V. — short for Black Diamond Vertical — jacket and pants are Black Diamond’s most versatile climbing... Read more
In tonight's Friday Night Video, we see Alex Honnold soloing Heaven 5.12d in Yosemite Valley. The route starts 3000ft above the... Read more
October 21, 2014 – Textile Exchange, a global nonprofit dedicated to sustainability in the apparel and textile industry,... Read more