/ M5 scottish winter equivilent grade?

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
r_o_b_h2 - on 10 Jul 2013
As the title suggests, any thoughts?
CurlyStevo - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to r_o_b_h2:
I thought the rule was approx add 2 to get the tech grade, I've only done the D grades but they are supposed to be equivalent to M grades I think.
Aly - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to r_o_b_h2: I suspect it can vary quite a bit. I've only ever climbed one pitch graded M5 which I thought would be 'proper' Lochnagar II/III.
Jim Fraser - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to r_o_b_h2:

How can there be a Scottish winter equivalent to a grading that is not intended for rimed rock, frozen cracks and turf?
Exile - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to r_o_b_h2:

in my limited experience with M grades Scottish 6 - 7, (depending on how sustained,) for straight technical equivalent, but prob 5 - 6 in terms of 'effort' needed to climb it.
vscott - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to r_o_b_h2:

As above - pretty hard to convert with any accuracy, but as a general idea for snowed up rock, experienced M-grade climabers (North Americans and continentals visiting Scotland) have suggested that e.g. Fallout Corner - benchmark (soft) VI 7 snowed up rock is around M5, and said the same for gargoyle wall VI 6.
HeMa on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to Jim Fraser:

> How can there be a Scottish winter equivalent to a grading that is not intended for rimed rock, frozen cracks and turf?

You're wrong, M-grades can be used for all that, and they are.

At least to me, this looks very much like some of the photos I've seen from Scottland
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GEIqrDmBces/UXF6Id7oTQI/AAAAAAAAHPw/RIJhveyvNtY/s1600/20130415-petitcap-5....

But oddly, it is given a M -grade (after all, it was climbed with crampons and ice tools, plus involved ice, snow, rock and most likely also frozewn moss...

Here's some other M -graded climbs...
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HmaB4ELJ5qA/US36MVrMAcI/AAAAAAAAG1A/lrIH9ckmgAs/s1600/DSCN0239.JPG
andyinglis - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to r_o_b_h2: M5 equates to roughly Scottish technical 7 difficulties. Nuff said.
CurlyStevo - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to andyinglis:
Aye +2 to tech grade is the rule of thumb I've always used.
r_o_b_h2 - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to r_o_b_h2:

Cheers for the replies folks

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.