/ Salbit Sudgrat

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JJL - on 10 Jul 2013
Done last Friday.

Was I having an off day or is the grading quite sporting?
victorclimber - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to JJL: think its just steady VS 4c for the harder pitches,,
jon on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to JJL:

There's certainly one pitch which has always (I've done it quite a few times) struck me as being harder than anything else. It may be this one: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=126694
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=200544

Certainly more than VS, Victor.
jon on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to jon:

It's probably the one that's graded 5a 1pa (5c+) on my Von Kanel topo. About half way up.
JJL - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to jon:

That's indeed the crux - felt HVS with a very committing and quite long layback.


But some of the "easy" pitches were quite full on too. Maybe I was just tired from leading all the tough pitches.
Dave Williams - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to jon)
>
> It's probably the one that's graded 5a 1pa (5c+) on my Von Kanel topo. About half way up.


Hmmm ... No wonder I found it a bit stiff in a pair of B3 boots in that case! The guided party behind us were all wearing big boots too.

Dave



victorclimber - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to jon: twas 4c when we did it back in the old days ,no harder than Chir Mhor south ridge I would have thought ..having said that 4c 5a etc was only just coming in ,so maybe now its settled to 5a ..
jon on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to victorclimber:

I think grading something 5c+ (as a free grade as against 5a 1pa) is rather silly. It's like saying 5++ or hard hard VS. This means basically that it's 6a. Translate that into British grading how you will. And yes, I did it in the old days too (and maybe five times since).

> twas 4c when we did it back in the old days ,no harder than Chir Mhor south ridge I would have thought

Once upon a time an old friend of mine told me that the Walker was a 1200m V Diff. Imagine how surprised I was when it wasn't...
victorclimber - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to jon: Who was it said way back .Theres only 2 grades .you can do it or you cant ,so when you did it first time what did you think the grade was ,because you would have only got British grades to go by ..think the Old Yorkshire Gritstone guide back in the 60,s ..
jcw on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to JJL: My diary entry 27 July 1967 reads: Well that will teach me never to underestimate a climb. I found it mildly desperate the whole way, George (Band)) pulled up on every sling and I did all the leading (in boots)
pawelx - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to JJL: I found it harder than expected, and the "5c+" pitch harder than 6a or 6a+ at sport climbing crags (Portland, Spain, etc).




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