In reply to mutt:
> JK are you sure about that?
Sure about what, that wire rope is stronger than accessory cord in like for like sizes? I've just double checked my memory and yes, bog standard galvanized 7x7 wire rope is stronger size for size than 'kevlar' kernmantle, roughly 30% stronger.
'Kevlar' cord is only available in a few odd sizes so realistically where wire were being considered you'd almost certainly be comparing steel with nylon and there's no comparison in terms of strength and cut resistance.
> dyneema and vectran are 15 times the strength of steel.
Because it's far lighter which is irrelevant here.
> Polyester is a dramically different material and they are not at all interchangeable in their properties. I've got a number of 'wires' that have 4 mm dynemma instead of steel. Whilst I haven't lobbed onto them continuously for years I'd hope that when they were accredited someone tested them robustly.
I'm sure they were, there'll be a strength rating of some sort marked on them. Exactly what it means varies a little but what it doesn't mean is that they couldn't be stronger slung on an alternative material.
> I'd have thought that Static strength, Dynamic Strength, UV resistance, Melting point, bend weakening were the key parameters. I don't have the data to hand but all this talk of using '9mm' or '12mm' simply equates to 'I don't know what is strong enough so I'm going to cut up my old climbing rope and use that', which is a bit non-sensical because climbing rope of the length of a thread doesn't conform in any way to how it was tested.
Yes and no. What's strong enough, I'd want it to hold the sort of fall it's required to hold on the day it looks so ratty someone thinks 'I'll replace that'. 6mm cord is very likely good enough on day one but if you could get something stronger and with more damage resistance into the same hole, why wouldn't you?
And yes, I said I'd *personally* go for 9mm precisely because I have some handy and it's adequately robust plus it clearly shows damage by fraying before becoming dangerously weak.
> the fact is that we all happily lob onto our hexes over and over again and they have never been threaded with 9mm cord. And regardless of how the original question has morphed through clarification, abuse, and ridicule, it is still a valid question, because who wants to carry 3 meters of climbing rope up a cliff when they can readily transport 6mm/7mm cord coiled on a single screwgate.
It really depends what you're doing. I can't help but wonder if we're talking about the same thing, I'm talking about equipping a route with new in-situ gear that needs to last, not simply leaving behind something that was adequate for my ascent.
If you want to sling something on lead then use a sling and retrieve it.
> I stand to be corrected when someone produces an adequately thought through and verified analysis of what the best thread materials are. Doesn't the BMC do this sort of thing?
Perhaps you should ask them.
jk