/ NEWS: 8c at 16 Buster Martin

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UKC News - on 11 Jul 2013
Buster Martin climbing through typical Malham bulges on Bat Route, 8c, 4 kbBuster Martin has just become the youngest Briton to climb 8c at the age of 16, with his ascent of Bat Route at Malham. After plans to go abroad to try and push his climbing further since his redpoint of SatanX, at Gorge du Loup and L'ami De Tout le Monde, at Ceuse, both 8b last year...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68204
jon on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News:

The first two paragraphs don't seem to make sense at the moment.
Tom the tall on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News: whole article could do with an edit, to be honest. Cracking climbing though!
winhill - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> The first two paragraphs don't seem to make sense at the moment.

You can fight your way through them but this is horrendous:

After plans to go abroad to try and push

It's to try TO push FFS.
Harry Holmes - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News: Very badly written. I got bored half way through.
andybenham - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Pedants. Youngest Brit to redpoint 8c by a guy obviously capable of climbing much harder in the future and all we get is a critique of the way the article is written. Should should watch this, its about you: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7E-aoXLZGY

Well done Buster, looking forward to seeing what the future holds for you
jon on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to andybenham:

> Should should watch this, its about you:

Huh?

No, you're wrong. If the news article doesn't make sense - I'm not talking about grammar here, those first two paragraphs just don't make sense - then it does Buster a disservice.
Duncan Campbell - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News: Article has been edited accordingly, hopefully it reads better now, as admittedly I had made some errors by repeating myself etc.

Well done to Buster though, an amazing achievement for someone so young, and it seems a very level-head on him too. I think we will be hearing more and more from this one!

Dunc
ChrisBrooke - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News: Pulled a bolt out?! Eeek! Does that sort of thing happen at Malham, or is that a sport climbing term with which I'm not familiar, meaning something other than 'pulling a bolt out'?
Neil Foster - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Great effort Buster!

I liked the way your choice of clothing ensured you were fully disguised on both the light and the dark sections of limestone encountered on this mighty pitch.....(not!).

Seriously though, good though it is to see video like this, as your climbing develops in the future you will find good quality stills are key to getting the recognition your ascents deserve. And your photographers won't thank you if you turn up in clothing like that!

Just something to bear in mind for the future, but congratulations on a very impressive achievement. I'm sure you will go far.

Neil
shark - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to Neil Foster:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>

> And your photographers won't thank you if you turn up in clothing like that!


Sounds like you are speaking from experience. Did Keith have a go at you?
AlisterM - on 11 Jul 2013
Buster tells the story well on his blog http://bustermartinclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/

The boy seems to be able to write as well as climb. (Bias alert: this is dad.)
rmoffat - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News:
I can't believe you sad little nerds are commenting on this guy’s spelling! Yes it makes sense. Please go away and go back to your part-time shift at the carphonewarehouse. After which Im sure you'll creep home for an intensive 4min session on your beastmaker.

Such a great send, clearly one of the strongest climbers in the UK at the moment, certainly the strongest in the South.
biscuit - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to rmoffat:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> I can't believe you sad little nerds are commenting on this guy’s spelling! Yes it makes sense. Please go away and go back to your part-time shift at the carphonewarehouse. After which Im sure you'll creep home for an intensive 4min session on your beastmaker.
>
> Such a great send, clearly one of the strongest climbers in the UK at the moment, certainly the strongest in the South.

I think you may have read it after the edit.
rmoffat - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit: Has this forum been edited?
jon on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to rmoffat:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> I can't believe you sad little nerds are commenting on this guy’s spelling! Yes it makes sense. Please go away and go back to your part-time shift at the carphonewarehouse. After which Im sure you'll creep home for an intensive 4min session on your beastmaker.

> Has this forum been edited?


The forum hasn't been edited but the article has.

A Sad Little Nerd.
rmoffat - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to jon: In reply to jon: And I trust the article passed your very thorough inspection? Or did you decide to make pointless comments on grammar and punctuation, slightly detracting from the actual point of this forum?

And it was sad little nerd, no captials needed.
jon on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to rmoffat:

Don't be an arse. My post simply said 'The first two paragraphs don't seem to make sense at the moment.' This was because it didn't make sense. I didn't correct any spelling or comment about apostrophes. It was a comment for Duncan or Alan so that they could put it right.
In reply to rmoffat:
> (In reply to jon) In reply to jon: And I trust the article passed your very thorough inspection? Or did you decide to make pointless comments on grammar and punctuation, slightly detracting from the actual point of this forum?
>
> And it was sad little nerd, no captials needed.

Whilst detracting from the actual point of this forum, jon's (and others) contribution helps the UKC journo's correct an article that appears on the homepage that will be seen by a lot of non-forum visitors. I think that non-commercial proof reading by forum members is a positive for the imagery and professionalism of articles and UKC in a much wider aspect.

What say you?
pneame on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat:
yes
ads.ukclimbing.com
In reply to UKC News: oh and bon effort to Buster.
rmoffat - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat: Very bon. I think primarily it should be checked by the pro's in the first place. Isn't that what we're all paying for anyway!?! If mistakes are found then, simply press 'contact us' which is usually found at the bottom of the site, oh look there it is! And any further grammatical alterations can be made behind the scenes. This would leave us readers still believing in the magic of the internet, again not detracting from said 'Bon' article and not reading about someone’s OCD, that would be you Millhouse!
Jonny2vests - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to rmoffat:
> (In reply to jon) In reply to jon: And I trust the article passed your very thorough inspection? Or did you decide to make pointless comments on grammar and punctuation, slightly detracting from the actual point of this forum?
>
> And it was sad little nerd, no captials needed.

jon had a point, it properly didn't make sense before (thanks for the edit Duncan), so go and hug your mummy instead of trying to cover up the fact that you completely misunderstood what the problem was.

And please ask her what a captial is.
Michael Gordon - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News:

If I'm not mistaken this is pretty big news! By his account it sounds as though he didn't find it too difficult either - obviously a very talented guy. What next - Rainshadow?!
silo - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News:He made it looks like 6c not 8c!
Fraser on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News:

8C at 16...that's impressive! And also a bit depressing on a personal front :(
Radical-G - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

Shame to have to plough through so much rubbish to read the two things that matter:

1) Awesome ascent
2) Bolt pulled out!?
Odwin Kay - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to Neil Foster: Really well done Buster. I hoped you liked the route as much as I did back in the day. Neil's comments are most probably right as he made me wear some colourful clothing!!!

Brilliant achievement.

All the Best

Mark Leach
AlisterM - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to Odwin Kay: Mark, Buster is thrilled to hear from you. 'That's so cool, hearing from him. Makes it worth taking on a British 8c. Makes it all worth it.' Going to kill me if he sees this. You've made his day.
John2 - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to Neil Foster: That's a very old school, trad approach to photography, Neil. These days you just change the colour of the clothing in Photoshop.
Neil Foster - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to John2:

Old school and trad. That's me John!
Ian Dunn - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to Odwin Kay: Another of your routes upgraded Mark, how do you climb more 8c's? wait 20 years and your 8b+'s jump up a grade, though Bat route did shed some holds as well as bolts!, Cry Freedom hasn't. I am sure Buster will really appreciate you congratulating him, nice touch.

Great effort Buster, please don't wear any of the clothing from Neil and Mark's era it wasn't pretty, though I am sure you can find something that does stand out better on the pictures and video. Troll tights won't suit you!

Also don't take any notice of those pedantic posters that twine on about spelling and grammar it's your route reading that's important not your English literature! Good luck for the European Championships in Imst and the World's in Canada and well done for making the final in Edinburgh.

I better check that i have spell checked this post twenty times in case I leave myself open to criticism!
Once again well done, Raining Bats and Dogs next :)
AlisterM - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to Ian Dunn: Ian I don't think it was his blog they were twining on about; it's a lovely read. It was the original and swiftly amended UKC piece.
jon on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to Ian Dunn:

> please don't wear any of the clothing from Neil and Mark's era it wasn't pretty

Ah... stripes! They'll come back!
Morgan Woods - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Can this be the hardest ascent yet done in a pair of Ron Hills?
fil - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News:

It looked like the original article was hastily written and proof read and now it's been amended it reads OK. It's good to see UKC celebrating the achievements of the strong and talented youngsters currently competing and climbing at a high level. It's a shame a thread that should have been celebrating Buster's outstanding achievement was hijacked.
As has been said above, use of the "contact me" facility would be the best way to get articles "tidied up" with out the thread going off topic.

Buster's blog was a well written piece that was a change from the normal "I turned up, pulled hard and did it" style and gave an insight into other aspects involved in climbing at that level.

Well done Buster, a fine achievement, and I'm sure there will be more there will be more from you for UKC to report on soon!

See you in Imst!

Phil




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