UKC

Fall-back options in the Sass valley and around

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 Simon4 11 Jul 2013
Looking for suggestions for bad-weather (or not good weather in the high mountains), options for in and around the Sass valley particularly.

We have pretty firm plans for high-mountain Alpine routes, but don't want to be stranded completely in the valley with nothing to do if the weather is iffy. We will have a car, so can drive elsewhere if it is required.

All suggestions gratefully considered, can include lower-level Alpine stuff or possible long, lower rock routes.
 Cheese Monkey 11 Jul 2013
In reply to Simon4: Monster Trotti
 MG 11 Jul 2013
In reply to Simon4: If you like quirky bivouac huts, try the Fletschorn Bivak. I think Sengkuppa is an easy lowish route from there.
 The Ivanator 11 Jul 2013
In reply to Simon4: Via Ferrata on Jegihorn and Mittaghorn (both c. 3000m and straightforward in less than ideal weather - avoid if there is any chance of lightning). Lots of bolted venues around, the sports routes are all covered in the (rather pricy, but comprehensive) Oberwallis guide.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/book.php?id=1208
In reply to Simon4: the Fletschhornhutte is a nice wee hut and the Senggchuppa a easy PDish scramble. The walk to the hut from Sattel is one of the biggest boulder fields Ive ever had the 'pleasure' of, avoid below. The Jegihorn is a walk or any number of bolted climbs. The walk up to the Monte Moro is pleasant and theres a cable car down into Italy. The Balfrin is lower and easy enough from the hut below, the Bordierhutte.
Graeme G 11 Jul 2013
In reply to Simon4:

We hired bikes and cycled to the dam and back....2 hours up and 7 minutes down! Definitely kept the legs in shape.
 MG 11 Jul 2013
In reply to greatshearwater:
> (In reply to Simon4) the Fletschhornhutte is a nice wee hut and the Senggchuppa a easy PDish scramble. The walk to the hut from Sattel is one of the biggest boulder fields Ive ever had the 'pleasure' of, avoid below.

Yes, meant to mention that! Ignore the AC guide approach and walk up pleasant grassy slopes on the other side of the valley. Careful of being mauled by lop-eared sheep.
OP Simon4 12 Jul 2013
In reply to greatshearwater:

Thanks for the warning about the boulderfield. They are always good to avoid, at all costs.

The Balfrin is actually pencilled in as the start route for acclimitisation, all things being equal.

 jon 12 Jul 2013
In reply to Simon4:

Acclimatisation? You're already acclimatised! You've got another victim, haven't you?
OP Simon4 12 Jul 2013
In reply to jon:

> You've got another victim, haven't you?

Yes, Wayne has had (and more than had), his free days for this year.

The new victim does have the advantage of being almost exactly 30 years younger than me. Youth - wasted on the young.
 LakesWinter 12 Jul 2013
In reply to Simon4: The rock routes on the Jegihorn are quite pleasant and easy enough. Good for acclimatisation and better than some manky via ferrata. Also traversing the Joderhorn above Mattmark is a nice easy trip with a PD rock ridge up and a steep walk/snow off. There's a D grade rock ridge on it too that looks quite good but had some nasty unstable crap to cross to get to it - maybe that is snow covered at the moment.

I've always liked the look of the MIttelruck E ridge, but not done it to comment.
OP Simon4 14 Jul 2013
In reply to Simon4: Thanks to all for the suggestions, all of which I will try to check out.

Fortunately at the moment it looks as if the high-mountain routes are viable, but it is always very helpful to have alternatives.
 chris bedford 14 Jul 2013
In reply to greatshearwater:
Totally agree about the boulders (and I seem to recall some sort of military-type 'shell' that we came across). And the hut is superb - really well equipped. The traverse from there over the Sengchuppa - Fletschorn - Lagginhorn must be one of the best low/mid-grade traverses in the Alps...? Worth the boulder-hopping...
 Brass Nipples 14 Jul 2013
In reply to Simon4:

Sport climbing 400m from saas grund campsite
OP Simon4 14 Jul 2013
In reply to Beat me to it!: Well thanks, but going to Saas and ending up sports-climbing really would be barrel-scraping as far as I (and I think my partner), am concerned.

I don't go to an area of huge Alpine peaks with the intention of sports-climbing. Not that my rock-climbing sports or proper climbing is up to much anyway.
 Jasonic 15 Jul 2013
In reply to Simon4: We went to do this once & a friend slipped on the boulder field breaking his wrist resulting in an emergency trip to A&E. Imagine a sea of choss..

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