/ Central Belt HVS

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Milesy - on 12 Jul 2013
I have been making good progress on HVS and want to get more done at the grade. Has anyone made up a list of good/essential central belt HVS climbs to get my teeth into or will I just need to look out the crags manually?

sjminfife - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to Milesy:
Walk on the Wild side at Auchinstarry
The Waulie at Rosyth
Gaucho at Hawkcraig
Guano at Hawkcraig
I'll add some more as i remember them

cheers
steve


sjminfife - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to Milesy:
The Shield and Piglet at Trappain Law
sjm
JLS on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to sjminfife:

Punk rock, neilston
Curving crack, whangie
Dee's crack, loudoun hill
Cave crack, loudoun hill

Eric9Points - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to Milesy:

Shoskred and Cracking Up at Ratho.

ps. I thought Cave Crack was VS and you might find the polish at Traprain a bit off putting.
Milesy - on 12 Jul 2013
Thanks. Neilson The Whangie I don't enjoy at all.

Done walk on the wild side. Not done the Hawkcraig ones though. Only done some HS and VS last year there, same with Rosyth.
Hay - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to Milesy:
I liked Cracking Up at Ratho but felt it to be more like VS. Same with Shoskred. Both are safe though.
Orouborus is good and more challenging.

There are some good ones at Limekilns too but a fall in them would be serious....I have only seconded them for that reason.

Waullie is very safe. I fell off it quite a lot.

Easy Contract has good gear and is a steady lead....assuming it has not fallen down.

If you find yourself at Dunkeld the F*ck Face is v good. Except the very last 20' of steep muck.




Eric9Points - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to Hay:
> (In reply to Milesy)

> Orouborus is good and more challenging.
>
I'd have termed it a sandbag, like Pete's Wall just across from it.
James90 - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to Hay:

lion and prominotory direct at auchinstarry are good fun and safe.
sjminfife - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to Hay:
Dunkeld means we can add "Coffin Corner" on Upper Cave
sjm
Hay - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to Eric9Points:
Not sure it is a sandbag, just takes more working out.
Scariest bit is pottering about the top looking for a belay.....
Gudrun - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to
Promintory direct was one of my first HVS's and i finally got the crux at the top after 3 top rope attempts.
Guocho and guano are excellent and is the Shield the one that gets to an overhang 3/4 height where you put a big friend in above before going for it? if so i failed on that one as i did on the absolutely brutal curving crack .I remember having my arm jammed straight in to the elbow and thinking if my foot slips here i'm going to break my arm!I was making that much noise on it my belayer said he thought i was having an orgasm!
Dees and cave were quite easy i thought but the HVS's at Dunkeld were too hard me to lead.Oh and Punk Rock and there's another next to it are a nice wee test.
james1978 - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to Gudrun: I would agree with Promontory Direct at Auchinstarry. That top crack is so good you wish it would go on for another 10m ! The full 3stars IMHO Walk on the wild side is also another good one...
james1978 - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to james1978: Traprain Law is a polished nightmare... avoid at all costs! The two routes mentioned at Hawkcraig are both very good tho with great gear. Guano being the harder of the two...
sjminfife - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to james1978:
> (In reply to james1978) Traprain Law is a polished nightmare...
I know a lot of the easier routes are polished but I don't recall any major climber induced polish on the routes I mentioned.
The Shield seems to be rarely climbed and really it's a micro route but worth doing if you are there.
Piglet has some polished rock but to me it seems to be the naturally shiny rock that is in that section of the crag.
There again it is 15 years or more since I led these routes.
sjm :-)
James90 - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to sjminfife:

I'm with james1978 on traprain, not happy to lead HVS there because of polish buti have recently been climbing hvs at auchinstarry, rosyth quarry and limekilns.

Gudrun: Is there any chance your talking about cathy at rosyth? it fits that description verry well (only VS but a tricky one)
Gudrun - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to sjminfife:

Ah the shield that is the one where you come to a bit and you don't know where to go?it seems as though it splits into a v shape,you can only go left or right but theres nothing there at all and it's very much down to friction but you go to the left.
sjminfife - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to Gudrun: That's it. I remember a rock 1 at my feet and an RP4 or 5 higher up and a balancy move on friction. I found it short but memorable.
sjm
Hay - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to james1978:
James,
Guano is VS is it not?
Bruce
Gudrun - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to James90:
> Is there any chance your talking about cathy at rosyth?
That rings a bell !and iv'e more than likely done it on one of my trips there(i can never remember the names of routes) but i was thinking of that one at traprain,ye know? that goes through the wee overhang.I attempted it twice with different guys and failed both times,overhangs and roofs are a big weak point for me :(
Gudrun - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to sjminfife:
> (In reply to Gudrun) That's it. I remember a rock 1 at my feet and an RP4 or 5 higher up and a balancy move on friction. I found it short but memorable.
> sjm

Ah that's right! iv'e got it now, blank wall and nae gear !...that's why i can remember it,remeniscent of a heilan multi-pitch !
Fiona Reid - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to Hay and Milsey:

Guano is VS in the guidebook, it's only HVS on UKC as the Hawkcraig moderator likes changing the grades. I believe it was HVS in the previous edition of Lowland Outcrops. Gaucho IMHO is harder than Guano and does merit HVS. I personally don't think Guano does.

Traprain is polished but both Burp and Piglet are reasonably well protected. Burp is easier to protect and both Mike and I can testify that the gear will hold a fall! The polish is disconcerting though so perhaps leave these till you've ticked off everything else.

Rosyth, The Waullie and Broken Pillar are both good.

At Limekilns, Sunsetter, Forbidden Colours and D-Day are all well worth a look. Sunsetter and Forbidden Colours have boldish starts but you get more gear with height, D-Day is less bold at the start but you don't want to fall off higher up as the gear is small and maybe not so reliable (there's a video of someone decking on the web someplace).

Shoskred at Ratho has 2 variants, one goes straight up the corner and is solid HVS, the other avoids the crux and is more like VS 4c. Cracking up is pretty straightforward and perhaps a little soft, Between Contracts is also worth a look - I found it the hardest of the 3 in that section. Ouroborous is a weird one, once you know how to do it it's okay. Be careful with your rope though as there's the possibility of ending up upside down if you stuff up the crux move.
Hay - on 13 Jul 2013
In reply to Fiona Reid:
> (In reply to Hay and Milsey)
>
> Guano is VS in the guidebook, it's only HVS on UKC as the Hawkcraig moderator likes changing the grades.

Whats that all about?? Asinine is never 5a, only just squeaks VS.
And what is Pain Pillar Proper...?

Bruce



CurlyStevo - on 13 Jul 2013
In reply to Milesy: in addition the vs 5a at dunkeld in the groove area are very good. the rut is borderline hvs. At lime kilns sunsetter is soft in the grade with good gear. the start to forbidden colours is a little bold but can be protected with micros or shock horror use a side runner. avoid d day imo the gear is not of the same quality.
Mark Bull - on 13 Jul 2013
In reply to Milesy:
As a 'Starry regular, I'm sure you have done them, but for other readers Lion and Orange Flash are worthwhile. Lion is best finished up the arÍte for the final couple of moves and likely only warrants 5a.

Pulpit Crack at Loudoun is good: safe and fairly easy if you can jam.

At Limekilns, Sunsetter has good gear but the crux is easily fluffed on first acquaintance. Forbidden Colours isn't that bold: the first good gear can be placed with your feet about 2.5 metres above a good landing. D-day relies on an iffy micro to prevent a deckout from the crux.

Asinine is guidebook 5a, and I think it's fair at VS, though a bit reach dependent. Guano seems borderline VS/HVS: it has one hard move which isn't that obvious how to do. Make sure you back up the rusty peg with some other gear!
Fiona Reid - on 13 Jul 2013
In reply to Hay:

> And what is Pain Pillar Proper...?

I believe it's the crag moderators way of distinguishing whether you do the start direct or start up Gaucho and step left.


CurlyStevo - on 13 Jul 2013
In reply to Mark Bull: asanine is a grwst climb alao high in the vs grafe....
Hay - on 13 Jul 2013
In reply to Fiona Reid:
Yuk.
My undersanding is that the FA came in from the right.
Not that it really matters.

Guano can only be considered HVS as the fixed gear is in terrible condition. Would be better to fix the peg and stick with VS.
Fiona Reid - on 13 Jul 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Are you pissed or just have some hand/phone/eye coordination issues? :-)

james1978 - on 14 Jul 2013
In reply to Hay: Or back the rusty peg up with a good wire and stick with VS.;)
Michael Gordon - on 14 Jul 2013
In reply to Milesy:

For quality head to the Loudon Hill HVSs. Coffin Corner at Dunkeld also stands out as a good one.
Mark Bull - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to Milesy:

So here's the tick list:

Curving Crack (The Whangie)
Punk Rock (Neilston Quarry)
Pulpit Crack (Loudoun Hill)
Cave Crack (Loudoun Hill)
Dee's Crack (Loudoun Hill)
Promontory Direct (Auchinstarry)
Orange Flash (Auchinstarry)
Lion (Auchinstarry)
Walk on the Wild Side (Auchinstarry)
Easy Contract (Cambusbarron West)
Sunsetter (Limekilns)
Forbidden Colours (Limekilns)
D-Day (Limekilns)
The Waullie (Rosyth Quarry)
Broken Pillar (Rosyth Quarry)
Shoskred (original LH line) (Ratho)
Between Contracts (Ratho)
Cracking Up (Ratho)
Ourobourus (Ratho)
Gaucho (Hawkcraig)
The Shield (Traprain Law)
Piglet (Traprain Law)
Burp (Traprain Law)


Any more contenders? What about Craigmore Corner, Windjammer or Stonefall Crack (not done any of them myself)?

I've not included Dunkeld as it's not in the Central Belt by any reasonable definition!
CurlyStevo - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to Mark Bull:
Dunkeld is only 14 mins further to drive from glasgow than hawckraig though.
CurlyStevo - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:
(and a lot quicker to get to than trapain law)
Mark Bull - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:

> Dunkeld is only 14 mins further to drive from glasgow than hawckraig though.

I know! It's still in the Highlands, though, or do you want to include the Arrochar area too? :-)
CurlyStevo - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to Mark Bull:
The point is Milesy lives in the glasgow area. Anyway.
Milesy - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to Mark Bull:

Thanks. Lead all the HVS (well all the decent ones anyway) at the starry.

Thought Punk Rock was terrible on second last year. Don't feel inclined to lead that one or ever go to Neilston every again in my life lol.

Went to Hawkcraig on Saturday, but had never led Pain Pillar before, so I done that, which felt easy now I have been pushing up to HVS. As I got the lead on that my mate got the lead of Gaucho which was good fun except when trying to thrutch sideways over the bulge all my gear on my left loops were getting caught under it lol. Lead this one next time with strategically putting my gear on my right side!

Fancy getting up to Cambusbarron this week for Easy Contract as I have never been to the quarry before. :)

thanks.
Mark Bull - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to Milesy:

> Lead this one next time with strategically putting my gear on my right side!

Or try climbing up a move or two higher before stepping left!
CurlyStevo - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to Milesy:
did you do the normal as per guide book quite bold (faily direct) start to pain pillar or did you slope up the crack of gaucho (and place gear here) to the right and trav in. The start is the only VS bit on pain pillar IMO.
Michael Gordon - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to Mark Bull:
> (In reply to Milesy)
>
> What about Craigmore Corner, Windjammer or Stonefall Crack (not done any of them myself)?
>

Windjammer is excellent - sustained but steady. Take some big cams for the initial section (pretty sure a 4 and even a 5 might be useful).

Stonefall Crack is quite hard - worth a try if Windjammer goes down ok.

Craigmore is not worth the effort IMO!

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Mark Bull - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Great thanks. I've made it a UKC ticklist http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=646
I included Windjammer, but not Stonefall Crack (it seems to have a reputation as a total sandbag) or Craigmore Corner.
Gudrun - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Mark Bull:
> Curving Crack (The Whangie)

Curving crack is the Whangie!That'll be the one with the big hole at the top?
I thought that was the name of the deep crack that runs diagonally up the left-hand side of pulpit rock on Louden hill,i'm terrible with names.
Mark Bull - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Gudrun:

> the deep crack that runs diagonally up the left-hand side of pulpit rock

That's Pulpit Crack!
Mark Bannan - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:
> (In reply to Mark Bull)
> [...]
>
> Windjammer is excellent - sustained but steady. Take some big cams for the initial section (pretty sure a 4 and even a 5 might be useful).

> Stonefall Crack is quite hard - worth a try if Windjammer goes down ok.

These are both superb routes, IMHO the 2 best HVSs near Glasgow. However, I would do them in the reverse order - I thought Windjammer was significantly harder than Stonefall.

Mark Bannan - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Mark Bull:
> (In reply to Gudrun)
> That's Pulpit Crack!

used to be VS when I started climbing. I have vivid memories of a trouser-filling experience, leading it without cams! Very good route, though.

btw, Cave Crack is surely VS!

Gudrun - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Mark Bannan:
> I thought Windjammer was significantly harder than Stonefall.
Windjammer is ard as f !Is that the one on the far left at Dumby or on the right of the main wall?

> hese are both superb routes, IMHO the 2 best HVSs near Glasgow.
Tha's what i was saying about near glesga,Nielston is nearest HVS but it is a bit crap but it is still a HVS test!

@Mark Bull
Ta!
Nigel Thomson - on 17 Jul 2013
In reply to Milesy: Gauco at Aberdour is a lovely wee route. Try Ninety Five at The Barron. It's like a wee gritstone route, nice jams and horizontal breaks, gets thin for the last moves but it's the nearest thing to grit in the central belt.
Gudrun - on 17 Jul 2013
In reply to the weegy:
> but it's the nearest thing to grit in the central belt.

pppffft !
Who cares aboot grit shit!

We are talking aboot Scotland here no some feckin poncey English boulder,but real climbin.

ps. !
Michael Gordon - on 17 Jul 2013
In reply to the weegy:

Ninety Five is pretty hard for E1 so hardly a contender on this thread!
Michael Gordon - on 17 Jul 2013
In reply to Gudrun:
> (In reply to Mark Bannan)
> [...]
> Windjammer is ard as f !Is that the one on the far left at Dumby or on the right of the main wall?
>
> [...]
> Tha's what i was saying about near glesga,Nielston is nearest HVS but it is a bit crap but it is still a HVS test!
>

Windjammer is the classic HVS on the main wall. Stonefall crack is the one on the far left.

Neilston?! Again not worth the visit IMO

Mark Bull - on 17 Jul 2013
In reply to Mark Bannan:

> These are both superb routes, IMHO the 2 best HVSs near Glasgow. However, I would do them in the reverse order - I thought Windjammer was significantly harder than Stonefall.

OK, Stonefall Crack goes in the list!

annep11 - on 17 Jul 2013
In reply to Milesy: My flat mate recommends:
The Waullie (Rosyth)
Ouroborous (Ratho)
Guano (Aberdour)
Gaucho (Aberdour)
Toerag Wall Direct Start (Aberdour)
Walk on the WIld Side (Auchinstarry)
Promontery Direct (Auchinstarry)
A few on the gellet block at limekilns and Spike Fright and Athletes arete on the salisbury crags. Athletes arete is particularly good. Rotten overhang is not
Milesy - on 18 Jul 2013
Thanks. Got easy contract lead tonight. Really enjoyed it but laced it up a bit. I reckon I would enjoy the E1 next to it. Looked pretty safe as well.
Nigel Thomson - on 18 Jul 2013
In reply to Gudrun:
> (In reply to the weegy)
> [...]
>
> pppffft !
> Who cares aboot grit shit!
>
> We are talking aboot Scotland here no some feckin poncey English boulder,but real climbin.
>
> ps. !

Sweetpea, what we're actually talking about is single pitch HVS's in urban quarries. Something I happen to know quite a bit about as I've pretty much done everything up to E4 in all of them. I mentioned Ninety Five because it's unusual for the central belt and climbing on quarried dolerite isn't that far off quarried grit. I don't think you'd get off the ground on grit anyway.
Michael Gordon - on 18 Jul 2013
In reply to Milesy:

I thought Easy Contract was E1 5b (going direct at top), Not Easy Contract HVS 5b. Come to think of it lots of the 'E1s' there give good VS/HVS experiences.
Nigel Thomson - on 18 Jul 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon: Both routes are great and NEC by my good friend Graham Harrison is a masterpiece!
James90 - on 18 Jul 2013
In reply to Mark Bull:
> (In reply to Milesy)
> As a 'Starry regular, I'm sure you have done them, but for other readers Lion and Orange Flash are worthwhile. Lion is best finished up the arÍte for the final couple of moves and likely only warrants 5a.

deffinately warrents 5b, *slight beta spoiler* is it possible your missing the crux by finishing up the arete? because the 5b crux is very high.
Milesy - on 18 Jul 2013
In reply to James90:

I couldn't figure out the 5b move on lion either. After the bridging it was jug central.
James90 - on 18 Jul 2013
In reply to Milesy:

It felt like 5b to me but currently appear to be outvoted. The 5b move for me felt fairly interesting and was probably a meter or 2 from the topout.
James90 - on 18 Jul 2013

Having just looked at the route on UKC 87% of votes put it in the 5b category (27 for 5b 4 for hard 5a)
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CurlyStevo - on 18 Jul 2013
In reply to James90:
I think when routes are a bit easier than listed there is a tendency for the votes to confirm the grade. However when a bit of old school jamming / thrutching is required (or the climb is just is hard in the grade) the tendency is to vote harder than it is (especially true for routes VS and above).
Nigel Thomson - on 18 Jul 2013
In reply to James90:
> (In reply to Mark Bull)
> [...]
>
>
is it possible your missing the crux by finishing up the arete? because the 5b crux is very high.

Yeah, finger locks or jams in the crack in the corner? The meat of the route defo the top corner. Lion cub a better route IMHO and fairly bold for HS.

James90 - on 18 Jul 2013
In reply to the weegy:

I canít remember exactly how it worked but the holds just ran out and the nice looking corner crack in the last few meters turns out not to be very nice or deep at all. Making for an awkward set of moves a meter or so above solid gear. I thought HVS 5b was fair, I certainly found it harder then the wallie at rosyth that is supposedly a 5b with a habit of spitting people of it.
Mark Bull - on 18 Jul 2013
In reply to James90:

> is it possible your missing the crux by finishing up the arete? because the 5b crux is very high.


Yes! The arete version is technically easier and cleaner but slightly bolder, and better climbing (in my opinion).

There are also 2 ways to finish Lion Cub, either stay near the arete and make a long reach to the good hold, or keep left on the slab and step back right just below the top.

Hay - on 19 Jul 2013
In reply to Mark Bull:
3 actually Mark.
The two you outline and the Idiots Finish which I took.
Stay on the slab all the way to the top on thin everything and miles above a blind cam, scrape over into the grass. Lie there boaking.
Mark Bull - on 19 Jul 2013
In reply to Hay:

Excellent! You should try getting that into the next edition of Lowland Outcrops.
Alex Slipchuk on 19 Jul 2013
In reply to Milesy: storm in glen nevis is a wee belter
CurlyStevo - on 19 Jul 2013
In reply to The Big Man:
It certainly is!
Pids - on 19 Jul 2013
In reply to Milesy:

You could always try the old skool VS's at Mauchline, they may provide a fun session, and the bouldering there aint too bad either

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=229

jazzyjackson on 19 Jul 2013
In reply to Milesy:

Careful at Cambusbarron. Ive not been for ages but it was pretty much falling apart for a while! Many routes changed completely. Helmets!

Some great routes at HVS/E1 last time I was there!
Eric9Points - on 19 Jul 2013
In reply to Pids:
> (In reply to Milesy)
>
> You could always try the old skool VS's at Mauchline, they may provide a fun session, and the bouldering there aint too bad either
>

I think Mauchline is a rather esoteric venue and I vaguely recall the quality climbing was mainly on the higher grade stuff. Also the quarry nearest the road with most of the routes in it gets mossy very quickly. Does anyone know what sort of state it's in at the moment?

BTW the crag about a mile downstream of the crags listed on this site is worth going to if you want to top rope.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=129148
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=129147

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