UKC

Hello all,

Going out to the Vanoise (staying in Pralognan and Champagny) in a couple of weeks time, and have a few questions.

- Has anyone got any route recommendations they wish to share? We're looking around the F to AD- grades. Aiguille de la Vanoise has been recommended already.

- Anyone know what the snow's like there at the moment? I imagine there's still quite a bit left. One potential route I was thinking about was the Grande Casse by the Grand Couloir, which I've heard is never normally in any fit condition after June, but given the snow this year...

- Also after any recommendations for rock climbing in the valleys for "rest" days?

Cheers,
Sam

In reply to samharrison7:
The Aiguille de la Grande Sassiere is a great peak which can be done in a day from Le Saut. I had fantastic views when I did it last year.
http://www.masterplan-photography.co.uk/2012/07/aiguille-de-la-grande-sassi...

In reply to samharrison7:

Sam, meant to add a few more on the other thread...

Gde Casse via Gds Couloirs should be OK - the couloir messimy was climbed recently and if that was OK the normal route should be fine - you could always call the Col de la Vanoise hut - they will know for sure (or the guides office in Pralognan...).



My recommendations (Pralognan/Champagny based) - Grande Gliere - South ridge (gentle snow then mellow rock to a great summit), or for a bigger day the NNE ridge is a mega-classic, descending via the S ridge - but needs a car shuttle.

Grand Bec from the Champagny le haute side is an easy but pleasant snow climb. W ridge (from Gd Bec hut) is good, if a little loose in places but the descent down the Glacier de vallonet is great at the moment.

Rock routes on the Petit Arcellin are really good - the west ridge is great with one move of 6a, or the Vion route on the south side if you want something a bit spicier.

Creux Noir via the S ridge is a nice day of 'classic' alpine rock - descent down W side may be easier than glacier de la patinoire depending on the state of the latter (guides office will know - I haven't been round the back this summer).

From the Peclet Polset hut (above pralognan) the Aiguille and/or Dome de Polset very mellow but good, Pte de l'Obervatoire rock routes all very good, and Pointe de l'Echelle supposedly good in an old-school mountainy way... (worth doing several things to make the most of walking in to the P-P hut..

On the south side of the champagny le haut valley the Bellecote is OK (but better in winter on skis as it is a looooong walk for a very short bit of snowy climbing in summer.).

Let us know how you get on!

In reply to samharrison7:

I agree with Pinch a Salt's Grand Bec recommendation. You can traverse it from the Grand Bec hut, via the Grand Bec - Vallonet traverse. I would then go down the snowy normal route, rather than descending the north ridge of the Grand Bec, as this is sharp, quite loose and quite long. Vallonet-Grand Bec is about PD+ or AD- but descending the north ridge bumps it up to AD IMHO.

I'd also second the recommendation of the S ridge on the Pointe de la Grand Gliere from the Col de la Vanoise hut. Very good rock scramble, PD+ ish? Maybe PD, it was a bit snowed up when I did it, but a great climb and quite unfrequented. By the way, when the guidebook says bolts on the steep bits it means one bolt on the route, that's all. Take a few nuts and a bit of tat for the way down.

Grande Casse was fine into August in 2008 and should still be ok with the snow and night refreeze atm.

The Petite Ciamerella always looked good to me but I never got round to it. Look up the Evettes refuge online and there used to be some topos and grades of routes round there. This area is a bit south of Pralognan, but not too far in the car.

In reply to samharrison7:

Thanks for your replies guys, sounds like some good routes there! Thanks for the tips about the Grand Bec as well, it's something we're thinking of. Will let you know how we get on.