UKC

Anyone got any recomendations of Routes in the Ecrins up to AD, including some easier ones as we have some begginers in ouy party.
I was thinking of doing the Barre Noire North Couloir followed by the NE Ridge and descending by the W Ridge any advice on this route would be apreciated.
Also does anyone know what the conditions are like at present.
Thanks
Martin

In reply to MartinN: Well 2 weeks ago the Couloir Noire was not in particularly difficult condition, even if not terribly interesting. At the time the routes directly up the face would have gone quite easily, including the Couloir Collidge directly to the summit, had there not been 100kph winds and vicious spindrift.

I imagine the ice-routes are still viable, the NE ridge looks pretty long and may be snow-plastered, so you will have to climb a lot of it in crampons.

In reply to MartinN:
It is also possible to climb the NE Ridge by traversing in from the normal route up the Barre/Dome de Neige ie. bypassing the Barre Noire Couloir.
The Ecrins Refuge is normally very busy in summer with groups doing the Dome de Neige so getting in might be a problem; if so there are bivvy sites in the rocks below the refuge.

Assuming you have the AC guidebook then,

From Ailefroide: Normal route up the Montagne des Agneaux - not too long, mix of glacier and rock with perhaps a short abseil in descent, good views.
Pointe des Cineastes (up the S Ridge and down the NE Ridge) - good rock.

From La Berarde: Pic Coolidge (S Ridge),
Tete De Rouget (Voie des Plaques, descent by N ridge) - from Dibona refuge but avoiding the crowds on the Aig. Dibona.

I would not recommend Mont Gioberney.

In reply to MartinN:
Standard W ridge of the barre is entertaining in its own right if for any reason you decide against the NE. An airy proposition for beginners. Roche faurio is a good easy route, mostly a snow-plod but with a little taste of alpine scrambling at the summit - more interesting than plodding up the dome de neige and not continuing onto the barre.

In reply to pdone:


Any particular reason? I was thinking of doing the standard,easy route from La Bararde.

In reply to lostcat:

Loose rock/scree and not that interesting. It's OK but there are better routes.

See the Alpine Club website in the guidebook/publications section where there is a note about the NE Ridge of Gioberney.

I would recommend the North face route up it (AD). Its got 3-4 ice pitch's and very interesting. Going up/down the standard route would be a pain (slog)

In reply to pdone: Fair enough, it's just that in the Alpine Club guide book it's described as a "pleasant and somewhat varied climb" ! Ah well, Pic Coolidge for a warm up once again it is.