/ PRODUCT NEWS: What Is La Sportiva's No-Edge Concept?
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=5651
I do wonder if that doesn't just mean less rubber - shoes don't last long these days as it is....
And I'm sure I read that they can't be resoled. Not good at the current prices.
From the feedback I've had from friends that have bought them for font trips they are incredible shoes, but the thinner layer of rubber simply has to mean that they will wear out quicker than standard edges.
Fortunately they seem sensible enough not to mess around with the Miura like they do with the rest of their range! Every time i buy a Sportiva shoe and like it they take it off the market when I try to buy them again. Company with too many designers needing employment... but they do make great shoes!
Sounds like it will be great on grit and poor on slate.
There is clearly nothing new in the design or the concept, which is 15 years old. In that sense this review is very misleading. It was badly received in 1998 because for the no edge concept to really work the rubber has to be very thin, so the shoes wear out at a rate that makes them unaffordable. If you make the rubber thicker then they simply dont work.
It seems unlikely that bringing back this concept now will have a different result than it did in 1998.
I would second this,very comfy fantastic sensitivity not brilliant for grabbing footholds and turning the outside non-edge on them but other aspects of the shoe compensate for this.Have used them on long routes at Montsant and on polished limestone...superb for this.Would not use on long vertical edgy stuff though.
My only concern is they are stretching a little around the soft/velcro middle
I took them half a size larger.The heel is not quite as snug as when the shoes were new.
Bought for 109 euro in A-V-campeur so about £100 in todays terms.
How did they do the resole? Did they just cut-back and slap a new sheet of rubber on the bottom of the shoe as normal or something more fancy with the fold of rubber that goes over the top of the toes?
So you mean they replaced the fold over the top bit then? Interesting.
> And I'm sure I read that they can't be resoled. Not good at the current prices.
Just a myth, I've resoled a few pairs of them now, both Futuras and Speedsters, with good feedback.
I can do them edgeless or put a traditional edge back on. So if you like the fit but don't get on with the edgelessness you can go back - and the rubber is pretty thin so by the time they are worn in you will probably be ready for a resole anyway :)
Now there's a surprise :-)
We're trying to ask our team members to send us through their thoughts on No-Edge/Futura and Speedsters to help answer some of the points raised.
Neil Gresham is first to reply. You can read his thoughts on use and wear over on our FB page here: http://on.fb.me/13wIA0d or pasted in below.
Obviously Neil and our other team members are sponsored by La Sportiva but we encourage honest feedback and always include any negative points if included in the original.
We do run shoe demo's up and down the country and with a wide range of models, not just No-Edge, so keep your eyes peeled at your local wall or on the events tab of our Facebook page.
"When it comes to selecting rock shoes, it is tempting to stick to the things that we know and understand. When La Sportiva introduced the world's first down-turned rock shoe: 'The Mirage' in 1996, it is bizarre to recall that most people dismissed it as a gimmick that would never catch on!
In my opinion, 'No-Edge' technology (which features on the Speedster and Futura models) represents a similar breakthrough, and is the only real development in rock shoe design within the last decade.
No-Edge has caused me to re-assess my entire approach to climbing footwear. Initially I pigeon-holed it as purely for training, but Iíve now realised that shoes with No-Edge perform better in a surprising number of crag situations. The climbing style afforded is incredibly intuitive, allowing you to use your feet in the same way as your hands, yet with considerably more support and power. When climbing, you can feel absolutely everything, which gives you the option of re-adjusting a foot before it pops. The profile of the rubber adapts to the contours of the climbing surface, rather than 'sitting' on top, enabling the user to gain an unsurpassed contact.
When you go back to normal shoes with edges after using No-Edge, it literally feels like your toes are numb!
The key to the success of the design is the combination of the No-Edge toe profile with a highly-sprung rand and tensioned arch. This means that the shoes can offer a high level of support and donít deform on edging moves.
I would recommend No-Edge for any bouldering situation and also for all steep sport routes; however, for long routes on slabs or vertical walls, a shoe with a stiffer and flatter sole would be preferable (I don't use them on slate!)
I can understand why people would be suspicious of No-Edge as it is so counter-intuitive to buy a pair of shoes that look like they've already been worn out! But believe me, there really is no comparison.
Not only do they perform like nothing else, but they last incredibly. I am now convinced that No-Edge shoes are more durable, simply because the wear is spread over a greater surface area and there is less shear-stress on the rubber.
No-Edge technology really does open the door to new possibilities. Try them and you will be amazed!"
Neil Gresham - La Sportiva ambassador since 1989
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