UKC

Hi guys, heading out to Cham next month and was wondering if anyone who has actually done some snow/ice routes like the swiss route on les courtes or the NF of the tour ronde, around August time in recent years and could comment as to what likely state they may be in. I've done a fair bit over there and know to check the OHM etc, looking for people with first hand experience to give their opinion

Thanks in advance

Davie Scott

In reply to scottie390:
I think typically these sort of routes get done in April -> June rather than mid August. Last year we wanted to do these early august and there would have been no chance of getting them done in any sort of safe / good nick.

That said quite a few nights the snow was re-frozen at vallee blanche level at dawn, but it wasn't frozen within a couple of hours. Last year you would have had problems with crevasses on the walkin by mid august as the snow bridges were getting very dodgey / non existent.

This year has been quite different though so you may get lucky?

In reply to scottie390: Swiss Route will definitely be out. It wasn't in condition about 2 weeks ago for us, and it's been warmer since then. A other problem with the Swiss route was getting onto the descent before it gets too warm. We spoke to 2 Danish guys who got avalanched on the NE Slope, one of them went 300m and ended up over the bergshrund!

To make descent safe, you'd want to be back on the glacier by 9 at the latest, this would mean starting the route at about 10 the night before, when it wouldn't be frozen!

Like somebody said, April is the best time for routes like this.

In reply to scottie390: NF tour ronde is often in nick throughout the summer as long as the prevailing temps aren't too high - I've not seen the Swiss Route in in August. Possibly was in 2001 and the Droites NF got done in August 2007, but that was a weird summer when it never stopped snowing.

In reply to scottie390: how are things later in the year? I'm off there end of september for some ice routes like Tour Ronde, Chere and Swiss route. Any other suggestions would be appreciated as well!

In reply to joe.91:

Joe, end of September, October and the Autumn in general can be a great time for high mountain ice and mixed providing a stable weather forecast.

I've climbed several of the routes you mention in October, plus I would have a look at some of the lines on the Midi NW Face if your after easily accessible technical ice and mixed. Burnier Vogler, Vent du Dragon etc. Bigger stuff in the Argentiere basin is also often in good condition around this time.

In reply to MJF: Cool thanks!

In reply to scottie390: We went to do Swiis routes on Les Courtes 2 weeks ago, but the ice is very brittle at the top. Also, you would need to top out very early to make it down safely, as the escape routes are very snowy, and the sun comes up very early. We met some dutch guys who did Austrian route, and came down the North East slope, and got caught in an avalanche. Better to do this in April. NF of Ronde can be done, just make sure the conditions are good, and need to top out by 8 (start climbing at 5), as the snow will start to get slushy after that.

The descent is a little tricky to route find, but not too difficult.

Let me know if you need further info.

In reply to kevinroet:

I must admit I think the descent off the Tour Ronde is fairly straight forward!

In reply to Lew13:
The VN can be pretty dodgy late season or if warm later in the day.. It's then best to continue to the col if warm to avoid the serious rockfall.