/ Have you climbed Llithrig or White Slab on CLoggy?
I was wondering if you have climbed either of these routes which way did you do them?
Free or with the traditional lasso/tension traverse?
I followed the Llithrig traverse and did the tension move as it looked like fun (which it was!) I've done White Slab one and a half times. The first time we dismally failed to lasso the spike, gave up and bailed. The next time I seconded the traverse without using the rope for aid. (My partner actually got the spike on his second attempt. I couldn't believe it!)
In both cases, free would make them one move wonders (well, two or three moves...). The classic way is much more fun and gives a much more consistent grade.
Apart from that, I don't think I could ever have done them free....
I abbed off Whie Slab in the wet after my partner spent a considerable length of time failing to get the lasso.
I can confirm that one can reach the ground in a single ab from that stance, but abbing off the edge of each successive band of slabs in dense cloud, unable to see if the ropes below you end in space or not, is spooky.
When I did White Slab my partner led it free and I seconded it free.
Did them both free. On White Slab I couldn't see the spike so thought about getting some gear in and reached across and placed a Friend then realised I could reach the hold so just did it!
Whatever was standard in the early-mid 80s. 50 metres at most, if not 150 feet.
We abbed off with 50m ropes the other week and that was more than enough. To be honest, a single 25m ab would probably get you down to the ledge from which Longland's starts and it's an easy scramble down from there.
The question we are asking is not which way to describe the route - we will include mention of all methods - it is what should the main route grade be?
In this day and age I find it slightly incongruous to include a route grade that requires an aid point, when the free version is only a little bit harder in both cases.
White Slab at E2 5c, on the grounds that your guide is for climbers not cowboys.
Agree 100%. Grading for aid is silly, especially when the move is only 5c.
Did White Slab (free) last weekend. Had a quick look and couldn't see the spike? There's an obvious good flat hold/jug just left of the crack, but there's no way a rope/sling would stick to it. The spike has either broken off in recent years or is it actually up on the arete somewhere? But again I didn't spot anything.
Oh yeah, well, with those new-fangled camming thingumajigs.....
....and what's all this stuff about 50m ropes? What's wrong with imperial measurements?
We are talking mid 1980s when I did it. All I remember is standing on the arete wondering where the spike was and thinking I can stick a Friend in the crack over there, at which point it was obvious I could reach the holds rather than fanny about flicking a loop of rope over a spike I couldn't see.
Imperial measurements are like the empire - history. :-)
For White Slab, 'lasso' isn't quite the right word. The best way is to chuck a big bundle of rope into the groove and hope that some of it snags over the spike as it slides down the groove. Worked fine for me. Then some years later I climbed it free, which didn't seem that much of a big deal. But the rope trick adds character.
Hmm, even after making the move across I still couldn't see anything that a rope would snag on. Ah well. I didn't think the free move was that much harder than anything else on the route.
The spike on White Slab is quite small - only slightly larger than a Cumberland sausage. As Jon says, the best method of lassoing it is to lob a few armfuls of rope into the groove above and hope they catch on it as they trickle down. I found it protected the move across quite nicely. Again, I couldn't see the point in aiding it. The move across isn't considerably harder than the cruxes on some of the other pitches.
done them both with the tension when we could have free'd them...why miss out on the fun?
Exactly how I did it - based on the "jammed abseil rope theory".
> Imperial measurements are like the empire - history. :-)
Not over here! Of course pints and gallons are a bit smaller so that shrewd individuals can make a bigger profit...
Ah, colonists - always behind the times :-)
PS. Tongue firmly in cheek
I did White Slab last month and neither me nor my partner could recognise the spike to lassoo. We climbed it free as did about 5 other pairs the same day. Had we lassoed it I think it would of detracted from the route. Personal opinion.
You'll have t go back and do it properly you know.
White Slab - Did it free after several failed attempts at the lasso.
Llithrig - Did the swing as it looked good fun!
Done each of them both ways and Troach with and without the initial lasso although the Troach lasso is non-standard now as the climbing is actually in keeping with the rest of the route.
We started up it at about 6.30pm in August which in hindsight was pretty idiotic but we then psyched ourselves out when I climbed Redhead's Direct (E4 6a) in error and we didn't realise it. After that, we decided the lasso method was the better option but it took us ages to manage it. I then needed to run it out rather more than was really sensible and we climbed the rest of the route in under 20 minutes and just avoided getting benighted.
Llithrig traditionally, White Slab free.
Mainly because when I did Llithrig I was climbing HVS and when I did White Slab it was well within my grade.
Did them both free.
I think I might have done exactly the same thing this weekend! Is Redhead's Direct on the second pitch up the slab? I went straight up at the end instead of going round the arÍte to the corner belay and it felt exactly like E4 6a. Some guys behind us said there was an E4 variant but I don't have the definitive Cloggy guide; would be interested to know if that is what I climbed. Needless to say whatever it was it was my first lead pitch on Cloggy and it blew my mind and freaked me out for the next 2 hours. We didn't find the spike on the next pitch; it must be pretty small?The move was fine though as if you are tall enough you can stand in a little break and even take your hands off. (This somewhat confused the guy belaying me as he didn't see the break foothold on the lead and so thought I was magically stuck to the slab!)
Yesterday we did Llithrig (mainly because I was still too freaked out to climb more E4s!) but didn't bother with the tension traverse as the move was pretty short lived.
Yes, you may have done Redhead's Direct on p.3, the first proper slab pitch. There's also Banner's variation on the same pitch. I've done the latter and AIR it goes diagonally left above the spike (not the lasso spike, but the one on p.3) and gets progressively thinner as you get closer to the break and it's also very runout at the top. About 5c perhaps? Redhead's goes straight up to the lasso spike, thus missing out the traverse pitch. However, if you did the traverse pitch, then more than likely you did Banner's variation, which is indeed harder than the 'normal' way.
Apparently both variations often get done in error, which is how I ended up doing Banner's. The pair in front did it (in error) and I simply followed - just like sheep.
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