/ Cam advice (too many of same sizes I think?)
I've just received a set of new cams (Helium 0.5, 1.5, 2.5) as a birthday present, giving me 12 cams but only 6 different sizes.
The Helium 1.5 and 2.5 are the same sizes as my DMM Dragon 2 & 3, and I already have two old 0.5's.
The Dragon 4 and old 0.5 friends get used more than any other size. I don't need three, but would be happy to loose the oldest and keep the Helium if two is useful?
I also have a set of older flexible friends in 1, 1.5 & 2.5 that I sometimes add to my rack, but rarely.
Anyway, 12 is obviously way to many cams. I climb mostly North East Sandstone, Whin Sill, and Lake District classics when I get over there.
I am looking to push my grades above HVS now (recently added some micro wires to my rack) and wonder if smaller cams might compliment the micro wires?
Do you reckon it's worth doubling up on some sizes (ie WC 0.5, 1, 1.5 & 2.5) or would you sell some to fund the purchase of other sizes (or just to reduce the number!).
I reckon a Dragon 6 and WC 0 might be more useful?
Old would be flexible friends with sewn nylon slings (one has the nylon stem cover, the rest are older).
Flex Friend 0.5 (x2)
Flex Friend 1 (x2)
Flex Friend 1.5
Flex Friend 2.5
That does look a bit simpler I guess :)
Then with the extra money, work down in size and get a size 0 or equivalent and then maybe some Zeros (5+6) or some C3s.
The world of cams is very confusing and it's easy to convince yourself that you need every cam on the market to fit all sizes.
Check the needle sports website for tables of cam sizes on their camming device pages. And decide from there what ranges you are missing.
I'd work out what cams I liked best and then treat the others as doubles, i.e Dmm's as your mainstay then heliums when you need a bit more of that size or visa versa.
At the moment I have dmm dragons, 00-6. Then doubles of 2 and 3, the two being a cragswag camalot. This works well, I may eventually double up on other sizes with camalots when necessary. btw the dragon 6 is rarely used, rarely taken up, to save weight. Don't bother with a cam of this size until you want to do a route where you need it.
I have a full set of dragons with two micro cams smaller than any dragon and 4cu 1,2,3 (13 cams in total). I don't carry the largest dragon unless I think I'll need it and the 4cus generally only get carried if I think they will be needed (multipitch or cam heavy climbs or crack climbs of quite specific widths etc....)
My standard rack (meaning I usually have them in the car, not that I take them all on every climb) is:
WC Zero 3 (grey)
WC Zero 4 (yellow)
WC Zero 5 + WC 0 (blue)
WC Zero 6 + WC 0.5 (red)
WC 1 * 2 (gold)
WC 1.5 (silver)
WC 2 (red)
This effectively means doubling up from 00 to ~ 1.5, and singles for bigger. That's 16 cams, which I don't think is too many!
Most often I'd drop the 3.5 and 4 if I don't think I'll need them, and take the rest (unless it's a short single pitch).
i agree with this but here's a left field suggestion
find out where the heliums came from and swap them for dragons 0,1,5
keep one of each flexi friends 1, 0.5 sell the 0.5,1,1.5 and 2.5 and get bigger dragon and smaller. you may need to add money to dragons swap
something to think about
I'd keep em all unless say a friend wanted a few to get started. Use the best ones and add any sizes you feel you're missing as your climbing moves on. That's just me, I never bother selling stuff, I just hoard it.
In reply to lithos: Not a bad idea.
I shall check Needle Sports sizing guide, try and decide which ones I wouldn't mind having two of, and go from there.
Legally if purchased online there is the 7 day Distance selling law which states store has to accept any return
As to sizes, as I think you have sorted out, smaller cams will do you well, but I also tend to find that equivalent WC 1.5 I can use more than once on most pitches
Going to add something in the 10mm sort of size with the cash, giving me a good selection with duplicates/overlaps.
Elsewhere on the site
Nick Livesey discovered the mountains of Snowdonia over a decade ago and finally moved there a year and a half ago, quitting a... Read more
WINTERFEST 2014 at Outside in Hathersage 6th and 7th December 2014 Outside's ever popular Winterfest event is back... Read more
As a long-standing name in the UK rockshoe market, Scarpa have a loyal following and many much-loved models. As a fan... Read more
The British climbing scene is very exciting at the moment. It is quite clear that as a sport it is developing at a rapid rate and... Read more
A product review by James Turnbull. James Turnbull at Outside recently took the new Osprey Mutant 38 on a rigorous test in the... Read more