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UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (330) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=556565
Stats for the week:
grubes - Well done on the 6B. Hope the knee heals up ok
IainRUK - Good luck for the Karwendal Birglauf. #1 in Wales surely?
Exile - Well done on the 7a+ traverse. Did you get an classic E1/2s done? It's the right weather for the Lakes
Mattrm - Try harder fatty!
mbh - Good solid miles in the bank there. Keep it up.
Eagle River - Did you get 50 for 5 then?
Nick Ruseell - Enjoy Frankenjura
AJM - Well done on the E4. 10 E4s sounds doable. Hope you enjoyed Scafell
NMN - Good running week there. Hope you've done well on Snowdon
Si dH - Glad the ankle is ok. Sounds like a solid week.
pork pie girl - As always I'm massively impressed by your psyche and the effort put in.
biscuit - Good miles there. Well done on the board stuff
Kevster - AJM did Never Trust a Smiling Cat (E2 at Symonds Yat) I seconded it and it was a good route. The gear seemed good.Luke Owens - Sounds like a good week there.
Needkraken - I know how hard it is to get the trad confidence in. It'll come, just get the miles in.
Nomics4sale - Sounds like a good crop of routes there.
Mr Chestwig - Some impressive trad objectives there. Good week there.
stevemarkperry - on the food poisoning. Decent bike miles again there.
useful - Did you get the E7 in then? Good list of routes there.
Curious Yellow - Lots of good sessions there.
leon - The trad'll come back. We all have bad weeks. You'll be getting the E points next week I'm sure.
JimmyKay - Looks like a good week's training there.
DanH9983 - Welcome to FC. Wild Otters, sounds lovely.
mrchewey - Someone removed pro when you were leading!!! What a complete ****ing ****. You just don't do that. Some people really are idiots. Nice to hear about Marion Winteringham. Sounds like a good week.
maria85 - Hope you had a nice holiday.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (330) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=556565
Stats for the week:
grubes - Well done on the 6B. Hope the knee heals up ok
IainRUK - Good luck for the Karwendal Birglauf. #1 in Wales surely?
Exile - Well done on the 7a+ traverse. Did you get an classic E1/2s done? It's the right weather for the Lakes
Mattrm - Try harder fatty!
mbh - Good solid miles in the bank there. Keep it up.
Eagle River - Did you get 50 for 5 then?
Nick Ruseell - Enjoy Frankenjura
AJM - Well done on the E4. 10 E4s sounds doable. Hope you enjoyed Scafell
NMN - Good running week there. Hope you've done well on Snowdon
Si dH - Glad the ankle is ok. Sounds like a solid week.
pork pie girl - As always I'm massively impressed by your psyche and the effort put in.
biscuit - Good miles there. Well done on the board stuff
Kevster - AJM did Never Trust a Smiling Cat (E2 at Symonds Yat) I seconded it and it was a good route. The gear seemed good.Luke Owens - Sounds like a good week there.
Needkraken - I know how hard it is to get the trad confidence in. It'll come, just get the miles in.
Nomics4sale - Sounds like a good crop of routes there.
Mr Chestwig - Some impressive trad objectives there. Good week there.
stevemarkperry - on the food poisoning. Decent bike miles again there.
useful - Did you get the E7 in then? Good list of routes there.
Curious Yellow - Lots of good sessions there.
leon - The trad'll come back. We all have bad weeks. You'll be getting the E points next week I'm sure.
JimmyKay - Looks like a good week's training there.
DanH9983 - Welcome to FC. Wild Otters, sounds lovely.
mrchewey - Someone removed pro when you were leading!!! What a complete ****ing ****. You just don't do that. Some people really are idiots. Nice to hear about Marion Winteringham. Sounds like a good week.
maria85 - Hope you had a nice holiday.
In reply to mattrm: That's early! I'm just in, utterly mullered. Ugggh
In reply to mrchewy:
More like I stayed up late. The wife and I went to see the NT Live production of Macbeth. So got back and thought I'd get cracking.
More like I stayed up late. The wife and I went to see the NT Live production of Macbeth. So got back and thought I'd get cracking.
In reply to mattrm: Ha,not by a long way, but do think I should have made the team.. but moving on.. slowly getting back to decent miles.. 75 miles this week but lots of good efforts so happy enough
m: 9.6 mile run at 7:10 pace legs still tired
t: am: 6 mile run. pm: 11 mile run at 6:30 pace
w: 13.1 miles with 20 k at 6:25 pace on sandy trails
t: am: 3 mile run. pm: 10k with 4 x200m, 3 x 1k, 2 x 500m. nice steady rep session
f: 4.5 mile run at 6:30 pace
s: am 4 mile run. pm: 2 mile warm up. Karwendal Berglauf, 1380m 6.8 miles, classic mountain race in Bavarian Alps.. 23rd, 1:19.. not a great run but climbed steadily, the Mudge caught me high up. Happy enough with how I felt as I was certainly tired from a good week of training and my adidas road shoes found their limit in snow and scree.. possibly slowed by lack of altitude as race finished over 2000m.
s: 8 mile run, 8 mile hike.
m: 9.6 mile run at 7:10 pace legs still tired
t: am: 6 mile run. pm: 11 mile run at 6:30 pace
w: 13.1 miles with 20 k at 6:25 pace on sandy trails
t: am: 3 mile run. pm: 10k with 4 x200m, 3 x 1k, 2 x 500m. nice steady rep session
f: 4.5 mile run at 6:30 pace
s: am 4 mile run. pm: 2 mile warm up. Karwendal Berglauf, 1380m 6.8 miles, classic mountain race in Bavarian Alps.. 23rd, 1:19.. not a great run but climbed steadily, the Mudge caught me high up. Happy enough with how I felt as I was certainly tired from a good week of training and my adidas road shoes found their limit in snow and scree.. possibly slowed by lack of altitude as race finished over 2000m.
s: 8 mile run, 8 mile hike.
In reply to mattrm:
STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 7lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain 11st)
Weight - 11st 12lbs (2lbs gain)
M - Rest
T - Trad @ King Wall, Gower
W - 1.5 h, yoga
T - Rest
F - Trad @ Symonds Yat
S - Building a wall
S - 10k, core, fingerboard
Thought I'd done well on the diet. But basically due to the heat, I've switched to sandwiches for lunch. So I reckon that's not helped with the weight loss.
However I can't complain as it's been an excellent week otherwise. Got a HS 4a lead on Tuesday on King Wall on the Gower. Then a VS 4b on Friday. Also seconded a E2 and a HVS. The E2 was a real fight (apparently I've got a career as a female tennis player ahead of me!) but a great route. Possibly not the best choice of warm-up route tho. My forearm got a bit tweaked, which has thankfully gone away now. The HVS was even better and the position on the top of the arete was great. Really exposed with some great climbing. It didn't look obvious, must have been a nightmare to onsight, but once you were on it, it was all there. So a really good week for me climbing wise. Very happy I have to say. Was really nice to meet AJM (who I climbed with on Friday at Symond's Yat).
Spent Saturday re-building my garden wall. More of the same today.
2/3 core sessions
2 trad sessions
1 run
1 fingerboard
Same goals for next week. Lets see if I can actually do the core sessions next week.
STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 7lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain 11st)
Weight - 11st 12lbs (2lbs gain)
M - Rest
T - Trad @ King Wall, Gower
W - 1.5 h, yoga
T - Rest
F - Trad @ Symonds Yat
S - Building a wall
S - 10k, core, fingerboard
Thought I'd done well on the diet. But basically due to the heat, I've switched to sandwiches for lunch. So I reckon that's not helped with the weight loss.
However I can't complain as it's been an excellent week otherwise. Got a HS 4a lead on Tuesday on King Wall on the Gower. Then a VS 4b on Friday. Also seconded a E2 and a HVS. The E2 was a real fight (apparently I've got a career as a female tennis player ahead of me!) but a great route. Possibly not the best choice of warm-up route tho. My forearm got a bit tweaked, which has thankfully gone away now. The HVS was even better and the position on the top of the arete was great. Really exposed with some great climbing. It didn't look obvious, must have been a nightmare to onsight, but once you were on it, it was all there. So a really good week for me climbing wise. Very happy I have to say. Was really nice to meet AJM (who I climbed with on Friday at Symond's Yat).
Spent Saturday re-building my garden wall. More of the same today.
2/3 core sessions
2 trad sessions
1 run
1 fingerboard
Same goals for next week. Lets see if I can actually do the core sessions next week.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks mattrm.
A properly rubbish week for me.
Injured ankle Tuesday evening, same thing happened at the end of June last year.
I wouldn't have been able to do much this next week any way so hopefully it'll recover from a week of rest.
Running goals:
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Half Marathon - 1h 25m.
STG:
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
MTG:
Push trad grade.
LTG:
Lead a tough E1.
M: - rest.
T: - 5.03m trail run, 614ft.
Ankle seized up overnight, very little movement and very painful.
W: - nothing.
T: – physio. Physio got almost full movement back and it seemed to be getting better, but what it is still doing is seizing up over night, then very painful until it loosens off a bit throughout the day.
F: - nothing.
S: - nothing.
S: - nothing.
Thanks mattrm.
A properly rubbish week for me.
Injured ankle Tuesday evening, same thing happened at the end of June last year.
I wouldn't have been able to do much this next week any way so hopefully it'll recover from a week of rest.
Running goals:
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Half Marathon - 1h 25m.
STG:
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
MTG:
Push trad grade.
LTG:
Lead a tough E1.
M: - rest.
T: - 5.03m trail run, 614ft.
Ankle seized up overnight, very little movement and very painful.
W: - nothing.
T: – physio. Physio got almost full movement back and it seemed to be getting better, but what it is still doing is seizing up over night, then very painful until it loosens off a bit throughout the day.
F: - nothing.
S: - nothing.
S: - nothing.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt. What was Macbeth like? We had thought of going to see that last night at the local cinema. How "live" did it feel? I heard an interview with Branagh and the director, and it sounded great.
M - 8.7 miles run
T - nothing. I got changed and everything, but just flopped down again.
W - 10.4 miles run, 1.6 km swimming
T - 10.4 miles run, coastpath, woods and heat. Plus I tripped over some barbed wire at the edge of a field (one of those fields where there is supposed to be a footpath, but the farmer has buried it in a sea of whatever it is.)
F- 10.8 miles run
Sa - 7.25 miles run, 1.6 km swimming then 3.25 miles run home again
Su- 12.2 miles run, road, trails, more heat and a 100 or so cyclists going the other way on some event. About 50 said a very cheery 'Morning! as I slogged up while they whizzed down. Very nice.
So that makes about 63 miles running, 1675 m ascent and 3.2 km swimming.
Thanks Matt. What was Macbeth like? We had thought of going to see that last night at the local cinema. How "live" did it feel? I heard an interview with Branagh and the director, and it sounded great.
M - 8.7 miles run
T - nothing. I got changed and everything, but just flopped down again.
W - 10.4 miles run, 1.6 km swimming
T - 10.4 miles run, coastpath, woods and heat. Plus I tripped over some barbed wire at the edge of a field (one of those fields where there is supposed to be a footpath, but the farmer has buried it in a sea of whatever it is.)
F- 10.8 miles run
Sa - 7.25 miles run, 1.6 km swimming then 3.25 miles run home again
Su- 12.2 miles run, road, trails, more heat and a 100 or so cyclists going the other way on some event. About 50 said a very cheery 'Morning! as I slogged up while they whizzed down. Very nice.
So that makes about 63 miles running, 1675 m ascent and 3.2 km swimming.
In reply to mbh:
The total ascent is probably less than 1675 m. When I run along the coastpath, the GPS watch, a Garmin Forerunner 410, seems to think that I fall off the cliff then climb back up again several times.
The total ascent is probably less than 1675 m. When I run along the coastpath, the GPS watch, a Garmin Forerunner 410, seems to think that I fall off the cliff then climb back up again several times.
In reply to mbh:
We've seen Macbeth (live) and Frankenstein (pre-recorded) so far. They're very good I think. If we went to see the play we'd have to travel a long way and shell out money for tickets, meal and accommodation. It was at the local cinema (Odeon) as well. So I'm happy to get to see it for £13 each. It's obviously not like being there, but it's very good, the cinematography was excellent and if you like theatre then I'd definitely recommend them. They're doing them quite often now, there's one every month or so these days.
> (In reply to mattrm)
>
> Thanks Matt. What was Macbeth like? We had thought of going to see that last night at the local
> cinema. How "live" did it feel? I heard an interview with Branagh and the director, and it sounded > great.
>
> Thanks Matt. What was Macbeth like? We had thought of going to see that last night at the local
> cinema. How "live" did it feel? I heard an interview with Branagh and the director, and it sounded > great.
We've seen Macbeth (live) and Frankenstein (pre-recorded) so far. They're very good I think. If we went to see the play we'd have to travel a long way and shell out money for tickets, meal and accommodation. It was at the local cinema (Odeon) as well. So I'm happy to get to see it for £13 each. It's obviously not like being there, but it's very good, the cinematography was excellent and if you like theatre then I'd definitely recommend them. They're doing them quite often now, there's one every month or so these days.
In reply to mbh:
Thanks - terrible timing.
Nice mileage for you this week!
> (In reply to NMN)
>
> Ouch! I hope that gets better soon.
>
> Ouch! I hope that gets better soon.
Thanks - terrible timing.
Nice mileage for you this week!
In reply to mattrm:
Easy to sum up this week from me.
NOTHING !
Mum visiting, very hot, legs felt like lead all week and lost all motivation, not sure why.
Currently sat on a balcony looking at the beach about to go out for the last night of Benicassim festival. I am a broken man. Due to the heat it's an over night festival. STarts at 7ish and finshes at 6ish. I'm too old for this. May not be training until Wednesday to recover i think
A couple of months ago my wife heard about a job in the UK but didn't go for it. Last week she was at a conference in Belgium and has been 'headhunted'. She said it'd have to be a pretty special offer for her to come back and live in the UK and they have given her everything she asked for. Bugger !
So possibly around next Easter the Spanish dream may be over. She starts in September and is going to see how it goes first before we decide but i think it's a given. The jobs based in York so not to bad for climbing and my work.
On the plus side the clock is ticking and i need to tick 8a before i leave = motivation !
Going to draw up some realisitc goals and get to it.
Easy to sum up this week from me.
NOTHING !
Mum visiting, very hot, legs felt like lead all week and lost all motivation, not sure why.
Currently sat on a balcony looking at the beach about to go out for the last night of Benicassim festival. I am a broken man. Due to the heat it's an over night festival. STarts at 7ish and finshes at 6ish. I'm too old for this. May not be training until Wednesday to recover i think
A couple of months ago my wife heard about a job in the UK but didn't go for it. Last week she was at a conference in Belgium and has been 'headhunted'. She said it'd have to be a pretty special offer for her to come back and live in the UK and they have given her everything she asked for. Bugger !
So possibly around next Easter the Spanish dream may be over. She starts in September and is going to see how it goes first before we decide but i think it's a given. The jobs based in York so not to bad for climbing and my work.
On the plus side the clock is ticking and i need to tick 8a before i leave = motivation !
Going to draw up some realisitc goals and get to it.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt, no joy yet.
Mon: Craig Y Longridge. Repeated the 2nd 5th of the traverse then worked the bit at the right hand end which is V6 I think.
Wed: Afternoon off so went to Kilnsey. 4 proper RP attempts at 50 for 5, made mistakes on the first 2 and tickled the finishing break on the 3rd and 4th goes but couldn't hold on. Went up again to get clips out so decent session.
Nothing else that week, hopefully at least 2 sessions at Kilnsey this week and probably one at CYL.
Thanks Matt, no joy yet.
Mon: Craig Y Longridge. Repeated the 2nd 5th of the traverse then worked the bit at the right hand end which is V6 I think.
Wed: Afternoon off so went to Kilnsey. 4 proper RP attempts at 50 for 5, made mistakes on the first 2 and tickled the finishing break on the 3rd and 4th goes but couldn't hold on. Went up again to get clips out so decent session.
Nothing else that week, hopefully at least 2 sessions at Kilnsey this week and probably one at CYL.
In reply to biscuit:
Sorry to hear the dream is probably over, it'll be nice to see you around Yorkshire next year though.
Sorry to hear the dream is probably over, it'll be nice to see you around Yorkshire next year though.
In reply to biscuit: The move will bring new opportunities - you've just got to be ready to take them. Hope that festival was grand, my daughter went a couple of years back.
In reply to mattrm: Don't get me started about it again!
Diet has gone to hell. Work is pretty full on. Often the two are linked.
Mon - Tremadog. Did One Step in the Clouds and Merlin Direct.
Tue - Tryfan Bach. Took a lead fall a move from the top of some dirty VS crack. Gutted.
Wed - Worked late.
Thu - Worked late.
Fri - Supposed to have eye op, cancelled due to misdiagnosis. Gotta be on antibiotics for six weeks! Set off for a run in the evening but far too hot so turned round.
Sat - Worked. Got drunk.
Sun. Worked. Knackered.
Chuffed with Tremadog, as that was my first HVS and my third or fourth VS. The sun was just setting as we walked back to Eric's. Merlin Direct is a splendid route. Good to see Magda pushing herself out of her comfort zone. My guidebook was pretty pants for OSITC.
Pleased with the fall on the VS as it was a crack, was manky dirty and as inspiring as Stanage but despite it being the antithesis of what I like, I just got on with it. Gutted to have blown the onsight but the fall was good for the head. Bah. At least it was route that didn't matter.
Footwork is a whole lot better now, I'm reading the holds quickly. Had a good solo across the face of Tryfan back in my guide tennies too. Slabs feel pretty secure at the moment, so maybe I should be focusing on getting on some HVS/E1 ones.
Work is being a pain again, so training has gone to pot. Should be able to get to the wall this week at least once and then away next weekend. Hopefully on the Cromlech.
Diet has gone to hell. Work is pretty full on. Often the two are linked.
Mon - Tremadog. Did One Step in the Clouds and Merlin Direct.
Tue - Tryfan Bach. Took a lead fall a move from the top of some dirty VS crack. Gutted.
Wed - Worked late.
Thu - Worked late.
Fri - Supposed to have eye op, cancelled due to misdiagnosis. Gotta be on antibiotics for six weeks! Set off for a run in the evening but far too hot so turned round.
Sat - Worked. Got drunk.
Sun. Worked. Knackered.
Chuffed with Tremadog, as that was my first HVS and my third or fourth VS. The sun was just setting as we walked back to Eric's. Merlin Direct is a splendid route. Good to see Magda pushing herself out of her comfort zone. My guidebook was pretty pants for OSITC.
Pleased with the fall on the VS as it was a crack, was manky dirty and as inspiring as Stanage but despite it being the antithesis of what I like, I just got on with it. Gutted to have blown the onsight but the fall was good for the head. Bah. At least it was route that didn't matter.
Footwork is a whole lot better now, I'm reading the holds quickly. Had a good solo across the face of Tryfan back in my guide tennies too. Slabs feel pretty secure at the moment, so maybe I should be focusing on getting on some HVS/E1 ones.
Work is being a pain again, so training has gone to pot. Should be able to get to the wall this week at least once and then away next weekend. Hopefully on the Cromlech.
In reply to biscuit:
York you could be a Malham devotee from there :-P
York you could be a Malham devotee from there :-P
In reply to mattrm:
Yep, got Totalitarian (E1 5c***)done which was a good adventure.
Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6
Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - not yet, may wait until the Autumn
Summer
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.
Week reported below aim was: 'Going for an easier week with the simple aim of doing something classic that I haven't done before, (as my climbing partners will be around,) in the E1/2 bracket in the Lakes - possibly Totalitarian.' - Tick
Weeks training:
M: Evening: 45min road run, 10 minute core.
T: Evening: Totalitarian. Still feeling knackered so mate led the harder pitches, but I didn't really mind and didn't find either that hard. Was made more interesting by me seconding the top 5c pitch by head torch, (pushing it leaving Kendal at 6pm and trying a four pitch route!) We had lights and trainers for the decent with us though so no epic, just more of an adventure.
W: Knackered - nothing.
T: 1hr single traverses on 7a wall. (Pump came on more quickly than usual - think I was having to over grip due to humidity.)
F: 30min traversing on 6b+ wall. (Again... pump came on more quickly than usual - think I was having to over grip due to humidity.)
S: Rest.
S: Morning: Went to Badger Rock with the nephew of a friend who is over from Auss'. Managed the 7a+ traverse again - felt ok, but felt tired on the V7 I did earlier in the year and didn't do it.
On holiday now so hoping some more time in bed will re-energise me. Aim for the coming week is 7a in one session on Tuesday.
I'm going to be in North Pembroke for a week and a half from this Thursday - anybody else in that neck of the woods and fancy a half day climbing somewhere near St. Davids?
Yep, got Totalitarian (E1 5c***)done which was a good adventure.
Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6
Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - not yet, may wait until the Autumn
Summer
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.
Week reported below aim was: 'Going for an easier week with the simple aim of doing something classic that I haven't done before, (as my climbing partners will be around,) in the E1/2 bracket in the Lakes - possibly Totalitarian.' - Tick
Weeks training:
M: Evening: 45min road run, 10 minute core.
T: Evening: Totalitarian. Still feeling knackered so mate led the harder pitches, but I didn't really mind and didn't find either that hard. Was made more interesting by me seconding the top 5c pitch by head torch, (pushing it leaving Kendal at 6pm and trying a four pitch route!) We had lights and trainers for the decent with us though so no epic, just more of an adventure.
W: Knackered - nothing.
T: 1hr single traverses on 7a wall. (Pump came on more quickly than usual - think I was having to over grip due to humidity.)
F: 30min traversing on 6b+ wall. (Again... pump came on more quickly than usual - think I was having to over grip due to humidity.)
S: Rest.
S: Morning: Went to Badger Rock with the nephew of a friend who is over from Auss'. Managed the 7a+ traverse again - felt ok, but felt tired on the V7 I did earlier in the year and didn't do it.
On holiday now so hoping some more time in bed will re-energise me. Aim for the coming week is 7a in one session on Tuesday.
I'm going to be in North Pembroke for a week and a half from this Thursday - anybody else in that neck of the woods and fancy a half day climbing somewhere near St. Davids?
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt.
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Castle. Good boulder. Laps on long V3 in catacombs. Core.
Wedns - Castle. Bit hot to boulder, plus tired from Tuesday. Foot on campus.
Thurs - Castle. Foot on campus. Core. Pretty trashed.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Ban-y-gor. Hummin' Bird (7b+), figured out a sequence.
Sun - Ban-y-gor. Hummin' Bird. Stuck clips up, 3 RP attempts then a TR to get the clips out. Powering out just before the rest, then again just before the top. Keen to get back...
Cheers Matt.
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Castle. Good boulder. Laps on long V3 in catacombs. Core.
Wedns - Castle. Bit hot to boulder, plus tired from Tuesday. Foot on campus.
Thurs - Castle. Foot on campus. Core. Pretty trashed.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Ban-y-gor. Hummin' Bird (7b+), figured out a sequence.
Sun - Ban-y-gor. Hummin' Bird. Stuck clips up, 3 RP attempts then a TR to get the clips out. Powering out just before the rest, then again just before the top. Keen to get back...
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt.
Goals for 2013:
Grit: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 6 E2s, 3 E3s) (excluding snowballing!)
Peak lime: 10 E2s, 5 E3s in 2013 (so far 2 E2, 5 E3s)
Elsewhere: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 3 E2s, 2 E3s)
Overall that would be 91 E-points...let's chuck in 9 E1s and make it 100
Sport: 2 7b+s to keep my hand in, ideally Brachiation Dance and Space Race but I'm not holding myself to those - too conditions, travel and partner-dependent (so far - Brachiation Dance done!)
M: nothing, being lazy
T: Climbing Station, doing endurance work on the 7as on the circuit boards. Still cant finish the one on the 10 degree board, but did several laps of the one on the 35 degree board, which is much easier. Good prep for Thursday...
W: Rest
T: After-work trip to try Brachiation Dance. Bolt-to-bolted it once but didn't feel great on it. Took a decent rest, went through all the moves in my head and got on for a first redpoint attempt - and much to my surprise, fell off right at the top. Was really pleased with this as I felt like I was redpointing properly for the first time all year really - I got properly in the zone and climbed through it all very quickly. Then got back on next go and did it fairly easily with the extra confidence. Half of the sport goal for the year done
F: Nothing - away for weekend visiting family & friends
S: ditto
S: ditto - just got home
Fairly low volume week but pleased with Brachiation Dance - its a great route.
Si
Thanks Matt.
Goals for 2013:
Grit: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 6 E2s, 3 E3s) (excluding snowballing!)
Peak lime: 10 E2s, 5 E3s in 2013 (so far 2 E2, 5 E3s)
Elsewhere: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 3 E2s, 2 E3s)
Overall that would be 91 E-points...let's chuck in 9 E1s and make it 100
Sport: 2 7b+s to keep my hand in, ideally Brachiation Dance and Space Race but I'm not holding myself to those - too conditions, travel and partner-dependent (so far - Brachiation Dance done!)
M: nothing, being lazy
T: Climbing Station, doing endurance work on the 7as on the circuit boards. Still cant finish the one on the 10 degree board, but did several laps of the one on the 35 degree board, which is much easier. Good prep for Thursday...
W: Rest
T: After-work trip to try Brachiation Dance. Bolt-to-bolted it once but didn't feel great on it. Took a decent rest, went through all the moves in my head and got on for a first redpoint attempt - and much to my surprise, fell off right at the top. Was really pleased with this as I felt like I was redpointing properly for the first time all year really - I got properly in the zone and climbed through it all very quickly. Then got back on next go and did it fairly easily with the extra confidence. Half of the sport goal for the year done
F: Nothing - away for weekend visiting family & friends
S: ditto
S: ditto - just got home
Fairly low volume week but pleased with Brachiation Dance - its a great route.
Si
In reply to Si dH: Nice work Si!
In reply to mattrm:
Thankyou!
Considering how poor the last couple of months have been, my climbing seems to be doing OK. Trad head still OK, sport still reasonable OS level. Encouraging. And on a personal level, those who know me are aware of how weedy I actually am, but managed to lock off one arm (right) for the first time (maybe ever?). Maybe this training malarky is doing something.
Mon: Finger board/run
Tues: Indoors
Sat: Kaiser wall E3 (I thought easier than expected, easier then the 6a version of kangaroo wall for sure) lead all pitches clean OS. AJM etc - get on it, its fine and a fun route. Then did Heil Hitler - ran the first and second pitch together, managed to peel off after the crux of the 2nd pitch and land in the tree. Foot pop. 3rd pitch was strenuous lead. Got these done by lunch so went to the pub for lunch.
Sun: Shorn Cliff - mileage 1x HVS 4xE1 2xE2, all led.
Got stuff coming up - Hoy, Lundy to name the big tick trips - trad tastic.
Think I nees to keep the trad going, would be good to do sohe me hard sport again at some point.
Buying BM for the FB sessions, so this week, indoors once, FB once and outdoors one day.
Cheers all, Kev.
Curious Yellow - nearly came and joined you at Ban Y gor today, but might have over crowded the crag there with a few more people there. Got a bit sweaty at shorn cliff come mid afternoon.
Thankyou!
Considering how poor the last couple of months have been, my climbing seems to be doing OK. Trad head still OK, sport still reasonable OS level. Encouraging. And on a personal level, those who know me are aware of how weedy I actually am, but managed to lock off one arm (right) for the first time (maybe ever?). Maybe this training malarky is doing something.
Mon: Finger board/run
Tues: Indoors
Sat: Kaiser wall E3 (I thought easier than expected, easier then the 6a version of kangaroo wall for sure) lead all pitches clean OS. AJM etc - get on it, its fine and a fun route. Then did Heil Hitler - ran the first and second pitch together, managed to peel off after the crux of the 2nd pitch and land in the tree. Foot pop. 3rd pitch was strenuous lead. Got these done by lunch so went to the pub for lunch.
Sun: Shorn Cliff - mileage 1x HVS 4xE1 2xE2, all led.
Got stuff coming up - Hoy, Lundy to name the big tick trips - trad tastic.
Think I nees to keep the trad going, would be good to do sohe me hard sport again at some point.
Buying BM for the FB sessions, so this week, indoors once, FB once and outdoors one day.
Cheers all, Kev.
Curious Yellow - nearly came and joined you at Ban Y gor today, but might have over crowded the crag there with a few more people there. Got a bit sweaty at shorn cliff come mid afternoon.
In reply to Curious Yellow:
Let me know when you're going back - would be cool to catch up again and that's one of the many on my list at byg...
Let me know when you're going back - would be cool to catch up again and that's one of the many on my list at byg...
In reply to Kevster:
How do the KW pitches break down Kev? Know the 6a pitch is the crux bit have heard the first (5c?) pitch quoted as anything from about E1 by other folk. Second pitch is easier iirc?
How do the KW pitches break down Kev? Know the 6a pitch is the crux bit have heard the first (5c?) pitch quoted as anything from about E1 by other folk. Second pitch is easier iirc?
In reply to AJM:
First pitch just has a few stretches - enough gear that you dont feel its unsafe, got a shiny new peg in the blanker section. 2nd pitch is short and straight forwards, I just clipped the bolt above the tree as it seemed sensible rope wise. The physical crux is definitly the last pitch, I had to actually pull hard (for me) twice on it but the holds are positive. Contray to the log book comment by someone, I thought it was easier than Heil Hitler crux 3rd pitch, but in a similar vein. If afterwards I was told it was E2, I could believe it - I've done harder E2s on Lundy. Still a fun route.
First pitch just has a few stretches - enough gear that you dont feel its unsafe, got a shiny new peg in the blanker section. 2nd pitch is short and straight forwards, I just clipped the bolt above the tree as it seemed sensible rope wise. The physical crux is definitly the last pitch, I had to actually pull hard (for me) twice on it but the holds are positive. Contray to the log book comment by someone, I thought it was easier than Heil Hitler crux 3rd pitch, but in a similar vein. If afterwards I was told it was E2, I could believe it - I've done harder E2s on Lundy. Still a fun route.
In reply to Kevster:
Pitch one and two run together well, definitly break at the ledge, cos you'll not want the rope stretch if you come off.
Pitch one and two run together well, definitly break at the ledge, cos you'll not want the rope stretch if you come off.
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt
STG (July 2013):
Regularly try and lead cracks and committing laybacks
Climb on gogarth
Lead E2 try onsight
MTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Grand wall at squamish
E3/4
Goals for this week
Trad - Fail
M: Rest
T: Bouldering/highballing/solowing at cows mouth quarry with no guidebook with me.
Warmed up on a roof . Right foot heel hooks hurt too much so just tried a few things with getting weight over my left leg.
Highballed a few things up to english 5b.
Highballed/soloed a slab which turned out to be an E1
Tried to solo a crack but horrifically polished
Tried a couple of arete problems go nowhere near (gets hvs 5b in rockfax ...)
W: Rest
T: rest
F: rest
S: Salthill quarry. Not a great place very high ball more like short routes. Really snappy rock. Looked to be a couple of good problems to develop if you lived locally. I will not be going back.
Headed to lee quarry instead but randomly stopped to check out a quarry above sabden. Looked to have a couple of nice faces and boulders. Grabbed to pads to check it out. We cleaned and climbed 18 potential new problems starting at 3 going up to 7A+. All of which were worth while. Hardest thing I did was probably 6A as my knee was stopping me a couple of them.
S: Rest
Next week's goals:
try hard
Knee is still not back to normal.
6 weeks to canada
Cheers Matt
STG (July 2013):
Regularly try and lead cracks and committing laybacks
Climb on gogarth
Lead E2 try onsight
MTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Grand wall at squamish
E3/4
Goals for this week
Trad - Fail
M: Rest
T: Bouldering/highballing/solowing at cows mouth quarry with no guidebook with me.
Warmed up on a roof . Right foot heel hooks hurt too much so just tried a few things with getting weight over my left leg.
Highballed a few things up to english 5b.
Highballed/soloed a slab which turned out to be an E1
Tried to solo a crack but horrifically polished
Tried a couple of arete problems go nowhere near (gets hvs 5b in rockfax ...)
W: Rest
T: rest
F: rest
S: Salthill quarry. Not a great place very high ball more like short routes. Really snappy rock. Looked to be a couple of good problems to develop if you lived locally. I will not be going back.
Headed to lee quarry instead but randomly stopped to check out a quarry above sabden. Looked to have a couple of nice faces and boulders. Grabbed to pads to check it out. We cleaned and climbed 18 potential new problems starting at 3 going up to 7A+. All of which were worth while. Hardest thing I did was probably 6A as my knee was stopping me a couple of them.
S: Rest
Next week's goals:
try hard
Knee is still not back to normal.
6 weeks to canada
In reply to Kevster:
Cheers Kev!
Right old mix and match of a week for me.
Monday rested and faffed.
Tuesday walked up to scafell, spent tues Wed thur there. lots of chilling out, a few easy routes and some nice walking and sunbathing and dozing in glorious weather. All big scafell ambitions remain unfulfilled but the point of the trip was to allow my missus a chilled out few days away from writing up and in that regard full points were gained.
Friday met up with mattrm at the Yat. Did an E2/3 (guide mentions E2 but E3 without some crucial wire which was nowhere to be seen, local we spoke to said E3 anyway, few spicy moves above good gear, who knows), seconded a vs and led a very well positioned HvS. Wandering along The crag on the way out I want to go back for yongoma and piggy Malone both look like steep fun.
Saturday was goredale with the Chestwig. Warmed up. Dogged cave route right twice. Took ages to get a sequence for the peg scar crack at the top. No expectations redpoint buoyed on by promise of dinner and beer if I topped it saw a surprisingly good effort getting up established in the peg scars. Had Ally worried for a minute I think!
Sunday warmed up by replacing the draws we had removed from crr. Found a good kneebar at the top below the peg scars. Got on redpoint, big old fight, foot slipped on first hard bit, really struggled tp use the knee as well as on the dog, bit ploughed on through for the tick. Boom! Last of the 7b+s for my pyramid and an awesome route to boot. Plus if I can sketch my way up it that bodes well for harder things. Then the caff. Then Malham. Met porkpiegirl. warmed up on taking the space. Got on space race but the breaking in of New shoes was a battle being won by the shoes so my feet were really sore. Got some interesting beta ideas from the Chestwig but also such pitying looks regarding my flexibility that I might have to start stretching again!
Good week. Those folk who can (Steve? Kev? CY? Ali? Biscuit when you're back in August?) should really do cave route right. It's dry and chalked and with suitable ropework you can do it on a single rope, lots of bolts and reasonable pegs and backup gear available too, I was happy to think of it as sport with a slightly traddy vibe rather than scary. And it's got sleepiness, big holds, none of this sharp fingery nonsense. That route could almost be Euro, aside from the peg scars
Cheers Kev!
Right old mix and match of a week for me.
Monday rested and faffed.
Tuesday walked up to scafell, spent tues Wed thur there. lots of chilling out, a few easy routes and some nice walking and sunbathing and dozing in glorious weather. All big scafell ambitions remain unfulfilled but the point of the trip was to allow my missus a chilled out few days away from writing up and in that regard full points were gained.
Friday met up with mattrm at the Yat. Did an E2/3 (guide mentions E2 but E3 without some crucial wire which was nowhere to be seen, local we spoke to said E3 anyway, few spicy moves above good gear, who knows), seconded a vs and led a very well positioned HvS. Wandering along The crag on the way out I want to go back for yongoma and piggy Malone both look like steep fun.
Saturday was goredale with the Chestwig. Warmed up. Dogged cave route right twice. Took ages to get a sequence for the peg scar crack at the top. No expectations redpoint buoyed on by promise of dinner and beer if I topped it saw a surprisingly good effort getting up established in the peg scars. Had Ally worried for a minute I think!
Sunday warmed up by replacing the draws we had removed from crr. Found a good kneebar at the top below the peg scars. Got on redpoint, big old fight, foot slipped on first hard bit, really struggled tp use the knee as well as on the dog, bit ploughed on through for the tick. Boom! Last of the 7b+s for my pyramid and an awesome route to boot. Plus if I can sketch my way up it that bodes well for harder things. Then the caff. Then Malham. Met porkpiegirl. warmed up on taking the space. Got on space race but the breaking in of New shoes was a battle being won by the shoes so my feet were really sore. Got some interesting beta ideas from the Chestwig but also such pitying looks regarding my flexibility that I might have to start stretching again!
Good week. Those folk who can (Steve? Kev? CY? Ali? Biscuit when you're back in August?) should really do cave route right. It's dry and chalked and with suitable ropework you can do it on a single rope, lots of bolts and reasonable pegs and backup gear available too, I was happy to think of it as sport with a slightly traddy vibe rather than scary. And it's got sleepiness, big holds, none of this sharp fingery nonsense. That route could almost be Euro, aside from the peg scars
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers buddy! Yep food poisoning sucks, never had it before and certainly don't want it again!
Goals:
Get weight back down to around 142 lbs before end of July: Currently 145.6
Churnet 7A (a solid-at-the-grade is still elusive!)
MTB fitness increase with consistent riding
This Week:
M: Rest / travelling to the Lakes
T: Striding Edge, Helvellyn, Swirrel Edge, Catsycam
W: Grizedale (steady) / travel home
T: 30km MTB
F: 30km MTB
S: 30km MTB
S: Skipped training today, felt so tired and just couldn't bear being on the bike
Weekly mountain bike trail distance: 90km. A little down on my target of 150 but still fairly respectable in context of previous weeks.
Cheers buddy! Yep food poisoning sucks, never had it before and certainly don't want it again!
Goals:
Get weight back down to around 142 lbs before end of July: Currently 145.6
Churnet 7A (a solid-at-the-grade is still elusive!)
MTB fitness increase with consistent riding
This Week:
M: Rest / travelling to the Lakes
T: Striding Edge, Helvellyn, Swirrel Edge, Catsycam
W: Grizedale (steady) / travel home
T: 30km MTB
F: 30km MTB
S: 30km MTB
S: Skipped training today, felt so tired and just couldn't bear being on the bike
Weekly mountain bike trail distance: 90km. A little down on my target of 150 but still fairly respectable in context of previous weeks.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks mattrm.
STG: Ground Effect (7b) at Kilnsey, trad E1s and E2s, work on remembering sequences for RPs.
MTG: 7a flash or in a day or quick 7b RP in Spain.
LTG: lots of E2s, maybe look at E3, RP 7b+.
Mon: 4 mile local run
Tues: Ingleton wall working circuits
Weds: nowt
Thurs: Neckband, led onsight Razor Crack (E1 5a) and Gillette Direct (E2 5c, woo!) and then 2nded Gandalf Groove Direct (E2 5c).
Fri: Dow, alt lead onsight Leopard's Crawl (HVS 5a) and Catacomb (E1 5b).
Sat: Alt lead onsight Side Walk (E2 5b, woo!).
Sun: 11 mile trail run Kentmere, 800m ascent.
I'm dead chuffed with onsighting 2 E2s this week, both brilliant routes and we also did some other top quality routes at Dow, really good week.
I was totally knackered for the run on Sunday so was much slower than usual and was walking uphill bits I'd normally run. Not too concerned though as I'd done a lot of hill wallk ins on the approaches for the three previous days so I think my legs were a bit shot.
Thanks mattrm.
STG: Ground Effect (7b) at Kilnsey, trad E1s and E2s, work on remembering sequences for RPs.
MTG: 7a flash or in a day or quick 7b RP in Spain.
LTG: lots of E2s, maybe look at E3, RP 7b+.
Mon: 4 mile local run
Tues: Ingleton wall working circuits
Weds: nowt
Thurs: Neckband, led onsight Razor Crack (E1 5a) and Gillette Direct (E2 5c, woo!) and then 2nded Gandalf Groove Direct (E2 5c).
Fri: Dow, alt lead onsight Leopard's Crawl (HVS 5a) and Catacomb (E1 5b).
Sat: Alt lead onsight Side Walk (E2 5b, woo!).
Sun: 11 mile trail run Kentmere, 800m ascent.
I'm dead chuffed with onsighting 2 E2s this week, both brilliant routes and we also did some other top quality routes at Dow, really good week.
I was totally knackered for the run on Sunday so was much slower than usual and was walking uphill bits I'd normally run. Not too concerned though as I'd done a lot of hill wallk ins on the approaches for the three previous days so I think my legs were a bit shot.
In reply to grubes:
Sabden, is that Sabden near Clitheroe? What quarry? Any good? Flat landings? Bascially do you think it might be a good venue for a scaredy cat crap boulderer??
Sabden, is that Sabden near Clitheroe? What quarry? Any good? Flat landings? Bascially do you think it might be a good venue for a scaredy cat crap boulderer??
In reply to Nomics4sale:
the guy I was in looked it up after its called nick of pendle quarry.
It has a 1 min walk in. Its on clitheroe road off of the A59 just past the dry ski slope.
The landings are fairly good and nothing is too highball.
It looks like a popular place for kids to come and drink.
as you enter the quarry on the left is a slab with a big pocket in it.
this is nice but feel high at the top. To the right of that is a wall with 8 problems (5 straight up and 3 traverses).
There is a boulder near there with 3 straight up and 2 traverses on it.
Then one more good bit of rock which is a roof 5+ from a stand start then a few varitions to it from sitting slightly harder.
Could be good for a local. Being so close to the road I am sure some one has climbed some of the problems befor but we did some cleaning to suggest other wise
the guy I was in looked it up after its called nick of pendle quarry.
It has a 1 min walk in. Its on clitheroe road off of the A59 just past the dry ski slope.
The landings are fairly good and nothing is too highball.
It looks like a popular place for kids to come and drink.
as you enter the quarry on the left is a slab with a big pocket in it.
this is nice but feel high at the top. To the right of that is a wall with 8 problems (5 straight up and 3 traverses).
There is a boulder near there with 3 straight up and 2 traverses on it.
Then one more good bit of rock which is a roof 5+ from a stand start then a few varitions to it from sitting slightly harder.
Could be good for a local. Being so close to the road I am sure some one has climbed some of the problems befor but we did some cleaning to suggest other wise
In reply to grubes:
That's about 10 mins from where I live, Pendle is my local running hill. Not exactly inspired but I'll have a look next time I go up there. It would be good to have a good bouldering spot nearby.
That's about 10 mins from where I live, Pendle is my local running hill. Not exactly inspired but I'll have a look next time I go up there. It would be good to have a good bouldering spot nearby.
In reply to mattrm
STG
Trad e1
Regular exercise
MTG
Trad e2
Sport 7a
10 pull ups (3)
Weight 12st 7 (13st 2)
M nothing
T Pilates and press ups before work
W Pilates and press ups before work then pm 25 min jog and chin up session using the 50 pull ups app
T Pilates and press ups before work
F bouldering at bell hagg - this is a good spot for summer evenings as there's never any midges, it's shady and no one else goes there. Just don't tell any one else!
S 30 min jog and 50 pull ups app
S nothing. Felt quite tired from the extra activity and abs felt quite sore from either Pilates or the steep traversing at bell hagg
Would be interested to know whether anyone else using an app for training. I'm specifically doing the chin-ups app cos it's a big weakness of mine.
Got some extra motivation coming from a likely trip to the ariege region in mid aug now! Just need to check some work stuff tomorrow and I can book a flight!
STG
Trad e1
Regular exercise
MTG
Trad e2
Sport 7a
10 pull ups (3)
Weight 12st 7 (13st 2)
M nothing
T Pilates and press ups before work
W Pilates and press ups before work then pm 25 min jog and chin up session using the 50 pull ups app
T Pilates and press ups before work
F bouldering at bell hagg - this is a good spot for summer evenings as there's never any midges, it's shady and no one else goes there. Just don't tell any one else!
S 30 min jog and 50 pull ups app
S nothing. Felt quite tired from the extra activity and abs felt quite sore from either Pilates or the steep traversing at bell hagg
Would be interested to know whether anyone else using an app for training. I'm specifically doing the chin-ups app cos it's a big weakness of mine.
Got some extra motivation coming from a likely trip to the ariege region in mid aug now! Just need to check some work stuff tomorrow and I can book a flight!
In reply to biscuit:
We can't do Spanish sun in York but there are far worse places to live.
jk
> So possibly around next Easter the Spanish dream may be over. She starts in September and is going to see how it goes first before we decide but i think it's a given. The jobs based in York so not to bad for climbing and my work.
We can't do Spanish sun in York but there are far worse places to live.
jk
In reply to Nomics4sale:
When the weathers crap and you get one of those windows to climb but everything is too far away its a good option.
Nice problems can easily be done on your own. Nothing highball. Techincal wall climbs and roofs on positive holds. A nice option for local climbing.
When the weathers crap and you get one of those windows to climb but everything is too far away its a good option.
Nice problems can easily be done on your own. Nothing highball. Techincal wall climbs and roofs on positive holds. A nice option for local climbing.
In reply to biscuit:
Opportunity for a gritstone reacquaintance? And limestone close by obviously, could be much worse but commiserations at potentially having to leave the lovely Spanish weather and rock behind.
I’ve only just seen your post on last week’s thread about August. I should be around at least one of those days, drop me an email if you fancy Kilnsey.
Opportunity for a gritstone reacquaintance? And limestone close by obviously, could be much worse but commiserations at potentially having to leave the lovely Spanish weather and rock behind.
I’ve only just seen your post on last week’s thread about August. I should be around at least one of those days, drop me an email if you fancy Kilnsey.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Cheers nomics! Good work on the trad looks like you're getting a rhythm going... Did you do all of sidewalk or abb after the hard pitches? Assume it must be cleaning up a bit now given the dry spell (was a bit scrittly in June bit cleaning up even then)
Biscuit - August - keep me in the loop, assume you have my email still might be worth an email round robin of those who said they're about...?
Cheers nomics! Good work on the trad looks like you're getting a rhythm going... Did you do all of sidewalk or abb after the hard pitches? Assume it must be cleaning up a bit now given the dry spell (was a bit scrittly in June bit cleaning up even then)
Biscuit - August - keep me in the loop, assume you have my email still might be worth an email round robin of those who said they're about...?
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Nice one on the E2s! How were they? Am I right in thinking that's your first E2 5c?
Nice one on the E2s! How were they? Am I right in thinking that's your first E2 5c?
In reply to maria85:
Yep, first E2 5c, thanks for noticing/asking!! The E2s felt pretty steady, you should get on them, or others if they're any indication of how E2s will feel up there.
Just seen your logbook, Central Buttress felt easy? Nice one! I thought the flake pitch was really exposed and scary. Where you off to next?
Yep, first E2 5c, thanks for noticing/asking!! The E2s felt pretty steady, you should get on them, or others if they're any indication of how E2s will feel up there.
Just seen your logbook, Central Buttress felt easy? Nice one! I thought the flake pitch was really exposed and scary. Where you off to next?
In reply to AJM:
Yeah we did all of Side Walk. The ab tat looked very suspect and the top pitches aren't too bad. All dry and clean.
Yeah we did all of Side Walk. The ab tat looked very suspect and the top pitches aren't too bad. All dry and clean.
In reply to AJM:
I bloody hope so - the top pitches are part of the route and not totally straightforward; no top pitch = no tick.
> Did you do all of sidewalk or abb after the hard pitches?
I bloody hope so - the top pitches are part of the route and not totally straightforward; no top pitch = no tick.
In reply to Pagan:
We did them all, but it was obvious from the tat that it's by no means a universal decision. From memory p4 was just lots of stacked block climbing, although I remember p5 having some weird moves up grooves and then a slightly disconcerting section up the wide crack where you just had to hope the chocks were more wedged than they looked! To be honest I think personally they brought the route down slightly for me because they were nowhere near as good as the first few.
We did them all, but it was obvious from the tat that it's by no means a universal decision. From memory p4 was just lots of stacked block climbing, although I remember p5 having some weird moves up grooves and then a slightly disconcerting section up the wide crack where you just had to hope the chocks were more wedged than they looked! To be honest I think personally they brought the route down slightly for me because they were nowhere near as good as the first few.
In reply to mattrm:
Two week update for me as I was in Wales last week, sorry it's a long one! I've had a lovely couple of weeks with 7 days worth of mountain trad in the sunshine and some great ticks for me. 4 x E1s, 2 x HVS, 4 Hard Rock ticks, 1 Classic Rock, 1 Extreme Rock (seconded) and a sun tan I could have pushed harder and got a lot more routes in, but still feel I've achieved a lot... and really enjoyed it. I also feel like E2 is very achievable over the next few weeks, definitely on a mountain crag though, grades seem so much easier on multipitch up high!
I've had two weeks off running after the marathon, partly due to the heat/being away and partly due to a bit of extensor tendonitis in my foot. This seems nearly gone and it's actually been really nice to have a break from running. Going to start again this week with some shorter runs.
Week 330:
M: Rest (day after marathon). Seriously achey!
T: Bike commute. Wilton after work - led Central Crack in Wilton 3 (HVS 5a) - felt slippery in the heat, nearly came off the crux but just about kept my hands jammed in there! Seconded Throsher (VS 4c) in Wilton 2. Checked out some stuff in Wilton 1 but was a bit too late to get on it - have to get back there.
W: Bike commute
T: Bike commute
F: Bike commute, drove to Wales.
S: Cloggy. Very sweaty walk-in - too late a start. Led the first crack pitch (VS 4c?) of The Troach. Seconded the E2 5b pitch. Attempted to lead the last 5a pitch but got a little freaked out by the total lack of gear so handed it to my partner instead. We half-heartedly geared up for a second route but swimming in the lake proved too tempting...
S: Llech Du - The Groove (E1 5c). I got pitches 1/3/5. Second is the crux but the 1st still felt E1 5b so happy with that.
Week 331:
M: Dinas Mot - needed a short walk-in day! AL The Cracks (HS 4c, though the last pitch felt more like VS 5a). AL West Rib (HVS 5a) - really happy with the lead of the 5a pitch as it's pretty run out. Steady climbing but a real head game for me as I'm hopeless at bold stuff. Had to give myself a bit of a talking to but MTFU'd and did it. Finished up The Chain (E1 5b) - brilliant finger crack and much more my style! Felt more HVS but happy to take the E1 tick... maybe I was just so relieved to have unlimited gear that it felt easy
T: Cyrn Las. The Grooves (E1 5b). Utterly brilliant. Led the first and third pitches. One of the best routes I've ever done and felt steady. This is apparently top end E1 so I think this means I need to get on some mountain E2s!
W: Idwal. Seconded Diadem on Clogwyn y Tarw (HVS 5b) and Suicide Wall Route 1 (E2 5c). Didn't lead anything - nothing really grabbed me and didn't want to end the trip climbing something for the sake of it.
T: Bike commute
F: Bike commute
S: Scafell. Central Buttress (E1 5b). Led the crux pitch and the other tricky 5a one. Really good. Had a look at Ichabod but didn't get on, made various excuses about time and suchlike. Head wasn't really there (feeling more than a little hormonal) so probably good that I didn't.
S: Gable Crag. Engineers Slab (VS 4c). Had my eye on some harder stuff but got psyched out by the huge number of people there, small ledge at base getting far too crowded, clusterf**ks of ropes/belays, then some guy lobbing off the bottom of Engineer's with no gear in (hold came off) and factor 2'ing onto the belay. Fortunately he was ok (and got back on!) but we opted to leave and go to Green Gable Crags in search of sun and solitude. Found both but backed off a HVS as the crucial hold was loose and with no gear - decided I valued intact limbs too much to risk it and wandered up a lovely VDiff instead. Walked back along the tops, beautiful day.
Two week update for me as I was in Wales last week, sorry it's a long one! I've had a lovely couple of weeks with 7 days worth of mountain trad in the sunshine and some great ticks for me. 4 x E1s, 2 x HVS, 4 Hard Rock ticks, 1 Classic Rock, 1 Extreme Rock (seconded) and a sun tan I could have pushed harder and got a lot more routes in, but still feel I've achieved a lot... and really enjoyed it. I also feel like E2 is very achievable over the next few weeks, definitely on a mountain crag though, grades seem so much easier on multipitch up high!
I've had two weeks off running after the marathon, partly due to the heat/being away and partly due to a bit of extensor tendonitis in my foot. This seems nearly gone and it's actually been really nice to have a break from running. Going to start again this week with some shorter runs.
Week 330:
M: Rest (day after marathon). Seriously achey!
T: Bike commute. Wilton after work - led Central Crack in Wilton 3 (HVS 5a) - felt slippery in the heat, nearly came off the crux but just about kept my hands jammed in there! Seconded Throsher (VS 4c) in Wilton 2. Checked out some stuff in Wilton 1 but was a bit too late to get on it - have to get back there.
W: Bike commute
T: Bike commute
F: Bike commute, drove to Wales.
S: Cloggy. Very sweaty walk-in - too late a start. Led the first crack pitch (VS 4c?) of The Troach. Seconded the E2 5b pitch. Attempted to lead the last 5a pitch but got a little freaked out by the total lack of gear so handed it to my partner instead. We half-heartedly geared up for a second route but swimming in the lake proved too tempting...
S: Llech Du - The Groove (E1 5c). I got pitches 1/3/5. Second is the crux but the 1st still felt E1 5b so happy with that.
Week 331:
M: Dinas Mot - needed a short walk-in day! AL The Cracks (HS 4c, though the last pitch felt more like VS 5a). AL West Rib (HVS 5a) - really happy with the lead of the 5a pitch as it's pretty run out. Steady climbing but a real head game for me as I'm hopeless at bold stuff. Had to give myself a bit of a talking to but MTFU'd and did it. Finished up The Chain (E1 5b) - brilliant finger crack and much more my style! Felt more HVS but happy to take the E1 tick... maybe I was just so relieved to have unlimited gear that it felt easy
T: Cyrn Las. The Grooves (E1 5b). Utterly brilliant. Led the first and third pitches. One of the best routes I've ever done and felt steady. This is apparently top end E1 so I think this means I need to get on some mountain E2s!
W: Idwal. Seconded Diadem on Clogwyn y Tarw (HVS 5b) and Suicide Wall Route 1 (E2 5c). Didn't lead anything - nothing really grabbed me and didn't want to end the trip climbing something for the sake of it.
T: Bike commute
F: Bike commute
S: Scafell. Central Buttress (E1 5b). Led the crux pitch and the other tricky 5a one. Really good. Had a look at Ichabod but didn't get on, made various excuses about time and suchlike. Head wasn't really there (feeling more than a little hormonal) so probably good that I didn't.
S: Gable Crag. Engineers Slab (VS 4c). Had my eye on some harder stuff but got psyched out by the huge number of people there, small ledge at base getting far too crowded, clusterf**ks of ropes/belays, then some guy lobbing off the bottom of Engineer's with no gear in (hold came off) and factor 2'ing onto the belay. Fortunately he was ok (and got back on!) but we opted to leave and go to Green Gable Crags in search of sun and solitude. Found both but backed off a HVS as the crucial hold was loose and with no gear - decided I valued intact limbs too much to risk it and wandered up a lovely VDiff instead. Walked back along the tops, beautiful day.
In reply to Nomics4sale: It felt really steady. I had a bit of a faff with rope drag (clipped the tat in the corner before going on to the flake), finished the traverse and realised it wasn't going to work, had to reverse the traverse, unclip it then go back... numptie. The traverse was a bit thin for feet, but ok gear and handholds, then a couple of pieces of reasonable gear and just one slightly committing rockover for the top of the flake. Felt fine. Certainly exposed but I find that really doesn't bother me as long as I have gear... no gear and I'd probably have cried
I actually found the 5a moves up that groove on the last pitch harder, they felt really off balance - I was probably just doing it wrong though!
I actually found the 5a moves up that groove on the last pitch harder, they felt really off balance - I was probably just doing it wrong though!
In reply to mattrm:
New ULTG (Sept 2014?) - complete 3 peaks Cyclo-cross race
LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham & new routes on the Diamond
MTG (Summer 2013)
SUP ext at Pigeons - cruising the bottom section, just need to work out a way to do the crux which is currently very low percentage for me.
"To do" list at Kilnsey; The Bulge, Mandela, Urgent Action. Maybe investigate Full Tilt and Steal the Show?
New additions: Insomnia at Dinbren and K3 down the dale. Trad project in Clwyd
Fit in some trad: Positron, King Wad, Cave Route Right (tick) & Central Wall (Kilnsey) currently motivate me. Who's keen?
STG
Priorities - re-assessment:
- Finger re-hab - stay on top of injuries and avoid Melancholie!
- Shoulder/elbow physio - shoulder is aching again. More thera-band sessions needed!
- Aero-power; continue to get pumped 2-3 times a week
- Continue with core and flexibility work
- Lose some weight; new aim <73kg - 74.7kg and 6.6% BF
The week just gone:
M - Rest - Cycled to work and back - 16miles ish
T - Rest - Cycled after work; 20miles ish, bit over an hour
W - Mayfair Wall. 7a warm-up, 7c dog, then RP, then E5 6b ground up. Popped a "good" wire and held by an uber rusty upside down peg!
T - Dinbren - 6c/+ warm-ups, then perfect beta from MattD for flash of Dyperspace. Finished with a proper RP of Broken Dreams 7c/+ (had done hard bit and continued into Insomnia before)
F - Rest - Cycled to work and back - 16miles ish
S - Gordale. Smashed in Cave Route Right on-sight. Climbed really well and hit a good sequence on top groove 1st time. Came close on left, then RP'd 2nd go. Dogged Supercool and felt blasted.
S - Back to Gordale; felt rough from bad sleep and lack of coffee. Dogged Supercool. Best link 7c/+ from deck to block. Then cafe, then Malham and repeated 7b,7a+,7b+'s for mileage.
New ULTG (Sept 2014?) - complete 3 peaks Cyclo-cross race
LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham & new routes on the Diamond
MTG (Summer 2013)
SUP ext at Pigeons - cruising the bottom section, just need to work out a way to do the crux which is currently very low percentage for me.
"To do" list at Kilnsey; The Bulge, Mandela, Urgent Action. Maybe investigate Full Tilt and Steal the Show?
New additions: Insomnia at Dinbren and K3 down the dale. Trad project in Clwyd
Fit in some trad: Positron, King Wad, Cave Route Right (tick) & Central Wall (Kilnsey) currently motivate me. Who's keen?
STG
Priorities - re-assessment:
- Finger re-hab - stay on top of injuries and avoid Melancholie!
- Shoulder/elbow physio - shoulder is aching again. More thera-band sessions needed!
- Aero-power; continue to get pumped 2-3 times a week
- Continue with core and flexibility work
- Lose some weight; new aim <73kg - 74.7kg and 6.6% BF
The week just gone:
M - Rest - Cycled to work and back - 16miles ish
T - Rest - Cycled after work; 20miles ish, bit over an hour
W - Mayfair Wall. 7a warm-up, 7c dog, then RP, then E5 6b ground up. Popped a "good" wire and held by an uber rusty upside down peg!
T - Dinbren - 6c/+ warm-ups, then perfect beta from MattD for flash of Dyperspace. Finished with a proper RP of Broken Dreams 7c/+ (had done hard bit and continued into Insomnia before)
F - Rest - Cycled to work and back - 16miles ish
S - Gordale. Smashed in Cave Route Right on-sight. Climbed really well and hit a good sequence on top groove 1st time. Came close on left, then RP'd 2nd go. Dogged Supercool and felt blasted.
S - Back to Gordale; felt rough from bad sleep and lack of coffee. Dogged Supercool. Best link 7c/+ from deck to block. Then cafe, then Malham and repeated 7b,7a+,7b+'s for mileage.
In reply to maria85:
You've had a good couple of weeks! re Central Buttress - I didn't lead that pitch so I may well have been overanalysing how scary it would have felt on lead. Brilliant route regardless.
You've had a good couple of weeks! re Central Buttress - I didn't lead that pitch so I may well have been overanalysing how scary it would have felt on lead. Brilliant route regardless.
In reply to mattrm: Hi All. It's the first time posting on here for me, I hope you don't mind me joining your club?! Climbing wise, motivation has been a little up and down of late, so I am hoping that posting on here might help me get a few of my goals reached. Also, one reason for my lack of motivation is that a lot of my climbing partners have decided that there's more important things in life than climbing so the pool of climbing partners has dwindled! I am in the Bristol area, so anyone interested in hooking up, please e-mail me!! I'm about at the weekends, some weeknights and the occasional day in the week too, if I have enough notice!
STG: f8a; try and do some trad!
MTG: F7B+, and some trad.
LTG: f8a+; F7C
M: Rest
T: TCA - Soooooooooo sweaty!! Managed to do about 80% of the new blue circuit and a few more blacks
W: Rest
T: TCA - More sweaty than Tuesday!!!! Endurance - lots of circuits up to 6C+.
F: Rest
S: The Gap. Warmed up on a 6b+ and 7a and then got on Mad at the Sun (7c/7c+). Worked out all the moves except for the crux moves at the bottom. Sort of came up with a sequence but due to the super-crimpy nature of the holds, could only manage a few goes before my tips were shredded. Managed to link from after the bottom crux to the top, so pretty keen to get back armed with some more skin!
S: Fingerboard - Max hangs and core.
For this week, more fingerboard and hoping to get down to Huntsham to try Low Blow, the link up of Ames Low into Golden Bicep. Though the weather looks like it may change.........
STG: f8a; try and do some trad!
MTG: F7B+, and some trad.
LTG: f8a+; F7C
M: Rest
T: TCA - Soooooooooo sweaty!! Managed to do about 80% of the new blue circuit and a few more blacks
W: Rest
T: TCA - More sweaty than Tuesday!!!! Endurance - lots of circuits up to 6C+.
F: Rest
S: The Gap. Warmed up on a 6b+ and 7a and then got on Mad at the Sun (7c/7c+). Worked out all the moves except for the crux moves at the bottom. Sort of came up with a sequence but due to the super-crimpy nature of the holds, could only manage a few goes before my tips were shredded. Managed to link from after the bottom crux to the top, so pretty keen to get back armed with some more skin!
S: Fingerboard - Max hangs and core.
For this week, more fingerboard and hoping to get down to Huntsham to try Low Blow, the link up of Ames Low into Golden Bicep. Though the weather looks like it may change.........
In reply to Garrouli:
Be psyched to meet up some point - have been trying right hand man down at cheddar for the 8a tick and also keen on Ames Low as a performance project with low blow as a longer term goal. Currently free pretty much all the time, full time bum, Cheltenham based.
Be psyched to meet up some point - have been trying right hand man down at cheddar for the 8a tick and also keen on Ames Low as a performance project with low blow as a longer term goal. Currently free pretty much all the time, full time bum, Cheltenham based.
In reply to AJM: Hi there! Yeah, would be definitely up for getting out. I have briefly tried right-hand man but for some reason never got back on it. Just drop me an e-mail if you want to head down at some point soon. Low blow seems like a bit of a long term project for me as well - I'm always shafted after doing Ames low!
In reply to mattrm: Had a good active holiday. Garmisch makes a good base for Dolomites style feratta and climbs, and great mountain biking too. Rock quality leaves a bit to be desired however!
M:
T: Bike 8 miles
W:
T: Bike 16 miles
F:
S: Travel to Germany
S: 8 pitch route on the Alpspitze lower slabs
M: Mountain bike to Eibsee (35 km 300 m ascent)
T: 10 pitch north face climb practising climbing up egg shells
W: Via ferrata tour to Alpsitize summit (4.5 miles walking 2000 feet ascent)
T: Mountain bike around Wank mountain(!) (30 km 900 m ascent)
F: Sport climbing at Hammer in Austria (onsighted 6a) - hot slippery venue
S: 8 pitches linking two halves of routes on the Alpspitze slabs with route finding and choss issues galore
S: Back home
STG: More 7a's (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): One more done: this years RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (3)
MTG: 7a+ Appetite/Direct Flight/Gilbert Cardigan (order of difficulty)
LTG: 7b (WYSWIG?)
M:
T: Bike 8 miles
W:
T: Bike 16 miles
F:
S: Travel to Germany
S: 8 pitch route on the Alpspitze lower slabs
M: Mountain bike to Eibsee (35 km 300 m ascent)
T: 10 pitch north face climb practising climbing up egg shells
W: Via ferrata tour to Alpsitize summit (4.5 miles walking 2000 feet ascent)
T: Mountain bike around Wank mountain(!) (30 km 900 m ascent)
F: Sport climbing at Hammer in Austria (onsighted 6a) - hot slippery venue
S: 8 pitches linking two halves of routes on the Alpspitze slabs with route finding and choss issues galore
S: Back home
STG: More 7a's (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): One more done: this years RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (3)
MTG: 7a+ Appetite/Direct Flight/Gilbert Cardigan (order of difficulty)
LTG: 7b (WYSWIG?)
In reply to maria85:
What an awesome sounding 10 days or so. What were your fav routes? I would love to do Troach especially.
What an awesome sounding 10 days or so. What were your fav routes? I would love to do Troach especially.
In reply to everyone who replied:
I'm not too sad to be honest. As has been said it's a nice place to live and has good access to climbing.
I've now got a timeframe to aim at which makes me more likely to pull my finger out for the magic 8a.
I'll sort August out this week. I will mail people as well but essentially i am free 7-10th and 12th. Well up for Kilnsey - NOT for Malham, either now when we move back Grubes !!!!
I may finally have to get to grips with gritstone proper i.e. not in a quarry in Lancs.
Mrs Biscuit goes over for the interview next week so you never know she may mess it up. However in the greatest tradition of who you know not what you know she's already been told she's got the job so probably not.
Can't stand in her way. They're letting her have her Phd funding, time off for research and to be able to do her consultancy work on the side. She's a very happy bunny.
I'm not too sad to be honest. As has been said it's a nice place to live and has good access to climbing.
I've now got a timeframe to aim at which makes me more likely to pull my finger out for the magic 8a.
I'll sort August out this week. I will mail people as well but essentially i am free 7-10th and 12th. Well up for Kilnsey - NOT for Malham, either now when we move back Grubes !!!!
I may finally have to get to grips with gritstone proper i.e. not in a quarry in Lancs.
Mrs Biscuit goes over for the interview next week so you never know she may mess it up. However in the greatest tradition of who you know not what you know she's already been told she's got the job so probably not.
Can't stand in her way. They're letting her have her Phd funding, time off for research and to be able to do her consultancy work on the side. She's a very happy bunny.
In reply to mattrm:
STG: Keep getting on e2/e3 routes.
MTG: 17(5) e-points in July
LTG(2013): 7a+*1, 7a*4. 34e points(25 to date).
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls: 0(1)
Focus: Lost
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. FoF. Committing to blind moves.
Mon: Nothing.
Tue: Arc. Repeaters. 4x4
Wed: Core. Weights.
Thu: Nothing.
Fri: Nothing.
Sat: Roaches(0 epoints).
Sun: Nothing.
Thanks Mattrm, I need the trad to come back before my week in the lakes that starts next weekend....
Another lack-luster week. Tuesday's training made me realize I've not really lost any fitness recently & as fitness isn't really a problem for my grades I started to figure "why bother?"
Did some climbing with my sister on Saturday @ the Roaches but all easy stuff.
I've come to the conclusion that I really hate grit unless I am climbing really well. Next week I'm going to stick to limestone.
STG: Keep getting on e2/e3 routes.
MTG: 17(5) e-points in July
LTG(2013): 7a+*1, 7a*4. 34e points(25 to date).
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls: 0(1)
Focus: Lost
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. FoF. Committing to blind moves.
Mon: Nothing.
Tue: Arc. Repeaters. 4x4
Wed: Core. Weights.
Thu: Nothing.
Fri: Nothing.
Sat: Roaches(0 epoints).
Sun: Nothing.
Thanks Mattrm, I need the trad to come back before my week in the lakes that starts next weekend....
Another lack-luster week. Tuesday's training made me realize I've not really lost any fitness recently & as fitness isn't really a problem for my grades I started to figure "why bother?"
Did some climbing with my sister on Saturday @ the Roaches but all easy stuff.
I've come to the conclusion that I really hate grit unless I am climbing really well. Next week I'm going to stick to limestone.
In reply to mattrm: Surprisingly, no!
Thanks Matt,
This week has been a bit of a non-week.
M: Nothing (Rest!)
Tu: Penmaenbach Quarry with Clwyd Mountaineering Club - only my second outdoor sport meet of the year (penance!)
* Started on Samoa 6a: led, but didn't place the gear (climbed after Ian did it: claiming onsight though!)
* Led Kato 5+ on sight - nice route, no problems at all.
* Led Rambling Jack 6b - RESULT! Dogged (5 falls), but mainly because I couldn't work out the crux. Once I worked out that it was all in the feet (due to the rubbish slopey crimps) and where the rock-over move happened, it was easy thereafter.
* Led Hitachi Arete 6a+ - again, not placing the draws
W: Nothing/Rest
Th: Driving
Fr: Driving
Sa: Visited Somerset's newest bouldering venue at the Minehead Eye ( http://www.mineheadeye.co.uk/the-cave/ ) . It was the grand opening, and my daughter lives near there, so she was keen to go along. There were a lot of kids, but pretty soon there was a group of about 3 dads working the 6b routes Small, compact, but if you happen to be down in Somerset (perhaps surfing) it's worth a brief visit.
Su: All day on the beach (draining) and a 5 hour drive).
Must review my goals again... Although the next few weeks are going to be all over the place.
Thanks Matt,
This week has been a bit of a non-week.
M: Nothing (Rest!)
Tu: Penmaenbach Quarry with Clwyd Mountaineering Club - only my second outdoor sport meet of the year (penance!)
* Started on Samoa 6a: led, but didn't place the gear (climbed after Ian did it: claiming onsight though!)
* Led Kato 5+ on sight - nice route, no problems at all.
* Led Rambling Jack 6b - RESULT! Dogged (5 falls), but mainly because I couldn't work out the crux. Once I worked out that it was all in the feet (due to the rubbish slopey crimps) and where the rock-over move happened, it was easy thereafter.
* Led Hitachi Arete 6a+ - again, not placing the draws
W: Nothing/Rest
Th: Driving
Fr: Driving
Sa: Visited Somerset's newest bouldering venue at the Minehead Eye ( http://www.mineheadeye.co.uk/the-cave/ ) . It was the grand opening, and my daughter lives near there, so she was keen to go along. There were a lot of kids, but pretty soon there was a group of about 3 dads working the 6b routes Small, compact, but if you happen to be down in Somerset (perhaps surfing) it's worth a brief visit.
Su: All day on the beach (draining) and a 5 hour drive).
Must review my goals again... Although the next few weeks are going to be all over the place.
In reply to biscuit: but you love malham so much
In reply to biscuit:
For what its worth, I would much rather live in York than in Spain. Not sure if that helps?!?
There is loads of good grit, trad and sport limestone or even sandstone within range for a day trip, and it's a lovely place for non-climbing purposes as well. That area of the country is really nice.
Chin up!
For what its worth, I would much rather live in York than in Spain. Not sure if that helps?!?
There is loads of good grit, trad and sport limestone or even sandstone within range for a day trip, and it's a lovely place for non-climbing purposes as well. That area of the country is really nice.
Chin up!
In reply to mattrm: I wish I was as fat as you!
get told off for being vocal too, but if Adam Ondra can do it, so can I (even on the dodgy VSes!)
get told off for being vocal too, but if Adam Ondra can do it, so can I (even on the dodgy VSes!)
In reply to biscuit: Hot sunny weather is overrated (except when we have it for 3 weeks in the UK).
And at least now everyone will be able to directly compare grades with you!
Opportunity sounds good for both of you. Enjoy and embrace... *thumbsup*
And at least now everyone will be able to directly compare grades with you!
Opportunity sounds good for both of you. Enjoy and embrace... *thumbsup*
In reply to Garrouli:
Hi Garrouli, all are welcome. All you need is willingness, honesty, and humility and we'll try to egg you on as much as we can!
Hi Garrouli, all are welcome. All you need is willingness, honesty, and humility and we'll try to egg you on as much as we can!
In reply to maria85:
Well done on all that, sounds good fun.I hope you enjoyed Wales? I think The Grooves is on my ticklist somewhere...
Gable Crag sounded like a nightmare though! :o
Well done on all that, sounds good fun.I hope you enjoyed Wales? I think The Grooves is on my ticklist somewhere...
Gable Crag sounded like a nightmare though! :o
In reply to maria85: Nice report Maria. Some nice ticks. Almost bumped into you then on the Monday - almost went to Dinas Mot for the Cracks and West Rib but decided Tremadog would be cooler as it was in sea mist.
In reply to biscuit: as ER says.. will be good to see you around on the yorkshire limestone
so.. have yo seen an 8a you're keen on?
so.. have yo seen an 8a you're keen on?
In reply to mattrm:
late post as off work yesterday painting sarah's parents fence then taking my mum to see a play in the park.. robin hood with a modern twist.. which confused my mum for the first twenty minutes (especially when the sheriff whizzed on to the first scene on a scrambler motorbike)then she settled into it a bit and enjoyed it
last week for me..
monday- rest day
t- malham and running
w-int train on bike, abs and core and stretching
t- turbo trainer in garage and core (am) . malham pm
f- hilly road ride (good work rate) pm malham
s- hilly road ride.. again well motivated to push my pace and feel like i am maintaining the pace between the hills now instead of getting bored and day dreaming about climbing
s- turbo in garage and core 9 (am) malham pm . nice to meet chestwig and ajm
project last week ..i could rabbit on about teh details of each session.. but in a nutshell... made progress.. dogged to the top, less falls, took some big whippers trying different clipping positions(inc from the top which turned out to be a good fall and didn't skin me a alive)
beat last week's high point on lead on sunday... got to the 6th bolt last week i got to teh 5th bolt)so managed to lead through the two crux sections and on to the final bulge before the rest ledge. feeling conistently solid leading the 7c+ section of the route (have been for weeks.. it's the bloody reachy 7c bits that are a pain)
nomics... you're cooking on gas girl!!!
late post as off work yesterday painting sarah's parents fence then taking my mum to see a play in the park.. robin hood with a modern twist.. which confused my mum for the first twenty minutes (especially when the sheriff whizzed on to the first scene on a scrambler motorbike)then she settled into it a bit and enjoyed it
last week for me..
monday- rest day
t- malham and running
w-int train on bike, abs and core and stretching
t- turbo trainer in garage and core (am) . malham pm
f- hilly road ride (good work rate) pm malham
s- hilly road ride.. again well motivated to push my pace and feel like i am maintaining the pace between the hills now instead of getting bored and day dreaming about climbing
s- turbo in garage and core 9 (am) malham pm . nice to meet chestwig and ajm
project last week ..i could rabbit on about teh details of each session.. but in a nutshell... made progress.. dogged to the top, less falls, took some big whippers trying different clipping positions(inc from the top which turned out to be a good fall and didn't skin me a alive)
beat last week's high point on lead on sunday... got to the 6th bolt last week i got to teh 5th bolt)so managed to lead through the two crux sections and on to the final bulge before the rest ledge. feeling conistently solid leading the 7c+ section of the route (have been for weeks.. it's the bloody reachy 7c bits that are a pain)
nomics... you're cooking on gas girl!!!
In reply to pork pie girl & others:
Cheers guys. Yes it's a nice place and not bad at all for climbing. I will miss the range of climbing here. Just the fact that i don't think i've repeated more than a couple of routes since i came here. Got mates here who will sort me out with a place to crash and climb so i will be on the lookout for cheap flights.
As for an 8a i've got my eye on - loads. No shortage of 3* 8a's round here.
Going to do this 7c first:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=109757
It's mahoosive. My mate just touched down on his 75m rope. I will probably go for something long rather than short and bouldery. Easy access and good for the weather at the time. Still thinking.
Cheers guys. Yes it's a nice place and not bad at all for climbing. I will miss the range of climbing here. Just the fact that i don't think i've repeated more than a couple of routes since i came here. Got mates here who will sort me out with a place to crash and climb so i will be on the lookout for cheap flights.
As for an 8a i've got my eye on - loads. No shortage of 3* 8a's round here.
Going to do this 7c first:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=109757
It's mahoosive. My mate just touched down on his 75m rope. I will probably go for something long rather than short and bouldery. Easy access and good for the weather at the time. Still thinking.
In reply to Exile:
Thanks! Needle Arete, to be honest I'm a bit scared of the E3 grade so no way would I get on it till I've done some more E2s. Plenty more quality E2s though so it's not like I'm running out of things to do. Thanks for the recommendation, you never know, if I'm there and feeling brave I might give it a go.
Nice one with ticking Totalitarian. I've heard the first pitch is a jungle but the rest of it is top quality. Is that true?
Thanks! Needle Arete, to be honest I'm a bit scared of the E3 grade so no way would I get on it till I've done some more E2s. Plenty more quality E2s though so it's not like I'm running out of things to do. Thanks for the recommendation, you never know, if I'm there and feeling brave I might give it a go.
Nice one with ticking Totalitarian. I've heard the first pitch is a jungle but the rest of it is top quality. Is that true?
In reply to pork pie girl:
heh heh cheers PPG. Likewise, good progress this week for you. The tick isn't far off for you now and conditions will be much better this week, could be an exciting report from you next week!
heh heh cheers PPG. Likewise, good progress this week for you. The tick isn't far off for you now and conditions will be much better this week, could be an exciting report from you next week!
In reply to Nomics4sale:
The first pitch is clean enough to be honest, (although the scramble to get to it is quite jungle like.) I thought it was a bit in your face for 5a - as the new guide book says 'a rude awakening.'
The first pitch is clean enough to be honest, (although the scramble to get to it is quite jungle like.) I thought it was a bit in your face for 5a - as the new guide book says 'a rude awakening.'
In reply to pork pie girl:
Yep, there was a five year old dressed in Lincoln Green complete with bow just in front of us who looked a little disgruntled at that point to!!!
> (In reply to mattrm)
>
> then taking my mum to see a play in the park.. robin hood with a modern twist.. which confused my mum for the first twenty minutes (especially when the sheriff whizzed on to the first scene on a scrambler motorbike)then she settled into it a bit and enjoyed it
>
> then taking my mum to see a play in the park.. robin hood with a modern twist.. which confused my mum for the first twenty minutes (especially when the sheriff whizzed on to the first scene on a scrambler motorbike)then she settled into it a bit and enjoyed it
Yep, there was a five year old dressed in Lincoln Green complete with bow just in front of us who looked a little disgruntled at that point to!!!
In reply to Si dH: My favourite was definitely The Grooves. Just consistently great climbing up an amazing line. Central Buttress would come in second I think. The Troach was nice climbing though there's no way I'd have led it, would have been totally freaked out by the run-out.
In reply to mattrm:
A late post, as I just got back from Germany this afternoon. I won't go into a detailed account of my trip, but suffice to say Frankenjura is awesome!
I'll admit that I didn't climb quite as well as I'd hoped (one UIAA 8 (~7a) redpoint, nothing harder, plenty of dogged routes around this level) but that was partly down to tactics and partly down to other priorities. I went out a bit too hard on the first couple of days and never fully recovered again. The main training message I can take from it is that a bit of work on my redpoint tactics could take my sport climbing a long way.
So, back to normal again. I think my focus is going to shift a bit to running (marathon in October), but I shouldn't have any problem maintaining a level in climbing.
Short term plan (~1 month)
Focus on running. At least maintain climbing level by getting out when possible and actually using my fingerboard.
Medium term goals (this summer season)
Running: Snowdonia marathon in October
Trad: Onsight E3 6a, become solid at E3 on more rock types/climbing styles. Get on more E4s (some a bit higher in the grade)
Sport: Lots of 7a/+ sport climbing (maybe sneaking in an onsight at this level). Redpoint 7b
Longer term goals (probably not this season)
Sport: Paradise Lost, Cheddar
Trad: The Axe, Cloggy
Running: More endurance events, try some fell running
A late post, as I just got back from Germany this afternoon. I won't go into a detailed account of my trip, but suffice to say Frankenjura is awesome!
I'll admit that I didn't climb quite as well as I'd hoped (one UIAA 8 (~7a) redpoint, nothing harder, plenty of dogged routes around this level) but that was partly down to tactics and partly down to other priorities. I went out a bit too hard on the first couple of days and never fully recovered again. The main training message I can take from it is that a bit of work on my redpoint tactics could take my sport climbing a long way.
So, back to normal again. I think my focus is going to shift a bit to running (marathon in October), but I shouldn't have any problem maintaining a level in climbing.
Short term plan (~1 month)
Focus on running. At least maintain climbing level by getting out when possible and actually using my fingerboard.
Medium term goals (this summer season)
Running: Snowdonia marathon in October
Trad: Onsight E3 6a, become solid at E3 on more rock types/climbing styles. Get on more E4s (some a bit higher in the grade)
Sport: Lots of 7a/+ sport climbing (maybe sneaking in an onsight at this level). Redpoint 7b
Longer term goals (probably not this season)
Sport: Paradise Lost, Cheddar
Trad: The Axe, Cloggy
Running: More endurance events, try some fell running
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt.
A good week for me!
Monday - World's End - Warmed up trying to on-sight an E2 5c, I never trad climb but I enjoyed the route. Fell off throwing for the wrong part of the top of the crag! Got it 2nd go with ease. Worked the moves on Cigars of the Pharaohs (7b) fell off after the crux on redpoint then felt massively powered out!
Tuesday - Deadhands, Front 3, 20's 35's sloper combo, 4 finger half crimp, middle 2, back 3 & front 2.
Personal bests time wise on ALL the dead hangs did 2 sets of all the above.
Wednesday - Back to World's End - Did Cigars of the Pharaohs (7b) first go with no warm up and didn't even get a little bit pumped. (Felt Easy?!) Weird feeling, lowering off felt like I hadn't climbed anything!
Here's a video of the route: vimeo.com/70526101
Thursday - Rest/Packing
Friday - Rest/Stretching/Holiday
Saturday - Rest/Stretching/Holiday
Sunday - Craig Y Llyn Bouldering - Did Voie Normale Stand(6B+/V4)in a few goes after even being anywhere near pulling on a few months ago. Really steep on positive holds. My anti-style and I'm psyched for it to feel easier now! Also came close to adding the powerful sit start which is a hard 7A/V6. Ended the session with a cool 6B/V4 tick of the arete problem there. Good session!
Thanks Matt.
A good week for me!
Monday - World's End - Warmed up trying to on-sight an E2 5c, I never trad climb but I enjoyed the route. Fell off throwing for the wrong part of the top of the crag! Got it 2nd go with ease. Worked the moves on Cigars of the Pharaohs (7b) fell off after the crux on redpoint then felt massively powered out!
Tuesday - Deadhands, Front 3, 20's 35's sloper combo, 4 finger half crimp, middle 2, back 3 & front 2.
Personal bests time wise on ALL the dead hangs did 2 sets of all the above.
Wednesday - Back to World's End - Did Cigars of the Pharaohs (7b) first go with no warm up and didn't even get a little bit pumped. (Felt Easy?!) Weird feeling, lowering off felt like I hadn't climbed anything!
Here's a video of the route: vimeo.com/70526101
Thursday - Rest/Packing
Friday - Rest/Stretching/Holiday
Saturday - Rest/Stretching/Holiday
Sunday - Craig Y Llyn Bouldering - Did Voie Normale Stand(6B+/V4)in a few goes after even being anywhere near pulling on a few months ago. Really steep on positive holds. My anti-style and I'm psyched for it to feel easier now! Also came close to adding the powerful sit start which is a hard 7A/V6. Ended the session with a cool 6B/V4 tick of the arete problem there. Good session!
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:
Top effort at the Bren pal! Flashing Dyperspace can't be easy!
Top effort at the Bren pal! Flashing Dyperspace can't be easy!
In reply to Luke Owens: Cheers Luke. Matt's beta was spot on, so it didn't feel to much harder than my normal skethcy 2nd go redpoint style.
I'd happily recommend Dyperspace as a first 7c once you've finished off IPJF, especially if you're starting to get some steeper boulder problems under your belt.
I'd happily recommend Dyperspace as a first 7c once you've finished off IPJF, especially if you're starting to get some steeper boulder problems under your belt.
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:
The sort of second go redpoint where it becomes a flash again halfway up you mean?
> Cheers Luke. Matt's beta was spot on, so it didn't feel to much harder than my normal skethcy 2nd go redpoint style.
The sort of second go redpoint where it becomes a flash again halfway up you mean?
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:
Sounds good to me!
Luke Clarke had a go on it recently and thought the start was nails and couldn't do the move? I wasn't there at the time though. I guess theres some good beta as it looks mega steep!
Heard it was roughly a 7A boulder problem to an easier upper section?
My steep Boulder/Route campaign is going well so far!
Sounds good to me!
Luke Clarke had a go on it recently and thought the start was nails and couldn't do the move? I wasn't there at the time though. I guess theres some good beta as it looks mega steep!
Heard it was roughly a 7A boulder problem to an easier upper section?
My steep Boulder/Route campaign is going well so far!
In reply to Luke Owens: It's nowhere near 7A. 6C maybe? A cheeky heel/toe helps with the set-up, then it's a basic board style move to a monster hold.
One tricky move on the upper section too.
One tricky move on the upper section too.
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:
Awesome, now i'm keen! Wanted to head up there either tomorrow eve or Friday eve but no idea if this weather is going to take a turn for the worst...
Awesome, now i'm keen! Wanted to head up there either tomorrow eve or Friday eve but no idea if this weather is going to take a turn for the worst...
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