UKC

Hi,

I've been Alpine climbing in the summer, to Cham, and it just wasn't what I'd hoped it would be. Too many people, too many routes out of condition and and just generally too hot for me. So, winter...
Seems to me that winter is where the action is. Less climbers, better conditions, nice and cold, more adventure...etc.
I've got plenty of winter experience in the UK, up to Scottish IV/V and not averse to suffering on cold belays, long walk-in's and lack of sleep.
Assuming I can Ski, what routes would you recommend for a newbie to the Alps in winter? And what are generally the best months to climb? (Preferably in the Cham area. I get free digs there.)
Any other advice would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

In reply to L.W.:

Did you consider going elsewhere in Summer? I'm just back from a fortnight in the Ecrins - we had superb conditions and the only crowds were on the trade route to Dome de Neige. I have also experienced relative solitude in the Sass Fee area. I know what you mean about the heat though. I dread long glacier descents in the glaring sun!

In reply to jonesieboy:

Yes, first thing I considered, but it was't so much the place as the experience in general. The heat was the biggest bother for me. I prefer colder conditions. I also get free digs in Cham which is quite an important factor.

In reply to L.W.:

I've been in april a couple of times, it's not too cold by then and generally pretty stable weather.

In reply to L.W.:

Yes, if you are looking at Alpine mixed and ice routes then the summer is generally not a good time unless looking at easier stuff. Spring is worth serious consideration. More daylight verses winter, and (generally speaking) less snowfall and more freeze-thaw. If you are looking to avoid the crowds then Autumn is probably the best time for this as it's totally off-season as far as climbing/skiing goes in Cham. There's often mixed and ice routes in condition. Beyond Good and Evil was in very good condition last autumn for example. Faces such as Les Droits and Courtes etc are generally easier post-winter due to the benefit of freeze-thaw following winter snow build-up. Droits probably gets climbed mostly around Feb-April typically.

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Liking the sound of this. The Swiss Route is one on my list already.

In reply to L.W.:

Pellisier gully is a nice day out at about Scottish 4/5....easy access 5 or so pitch, walk off the back and then you get a ski down the valle blanche.

In reply to Morgan Woods:

Cheers. Can't find it on the route data base though. Don't suppose you have a link to any other info?

In reply to L.W.:

You think Chamonix is busy in summer...

In reply to L.W.:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=85176

http://www.alpine-guides.com/blog/blogpics/32.jpg

In reply to galpinos:

Ah, thanks!

In reply to jon:

Yeah, but the Skiers are going down!

In reply to L.W.: The Pellisier is on Point Lachenal and I would second Morgan's recommendation, a good route for those used to Scottish mixed. I also suffer in the warm weather and have recently done more climbing in the spring and autumn, rather than full blown winter which is quite a step up. Plan to go at the end of September, early October, stay in the old simond hut which is open when the cosmiques hut closes. Lots of good routes around there on the triangle, Tacul and point Lachenal. You can catch the midi bin up and down but weekends will be busy in the simond hut. Proper frost at night and below freezing during the day - enjoy it. Regards.......Jeff

In reply to Jeff Ingman:

Thank you Jeff.

In reply to L.W.:


Well you'll get them alright in winter in the Alps!

It's not much like Scottish climbing in terms of commitment and danger, you really need to know what you're up to. If you can ski why not have a go at ski-mountaineering first? You'll see what it's like and how you are suited to the environment, and the feeling of loneliness.