/ Gogarth in the shade

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Jon Stewart - on 22 Jul 2013
Apologies if this query irritates you, as you think I should be able to divine this information from the guidebook, but I'm going to ask anyway.

Which walls at Gogarth and Rhoscolyn get a bit of shade in the morning/afternoon?

I know that you basically cook on Main Cliff, and that Upper Tier is in the shade in the morning (I think?). Anyone know about North Stack Wall? Since Easter Island Gully is just Main Cliff, I know about the main bit, but do Supercrack and Wonderwall stay in the shade a bit, and if so, when?

What about Fallen Block Zawn at Rhoscolyn, having never been down there, I'm not sure if it faces the same way as the other bit?

In general, any advice for seeking shade at Gogarth (thinking particularly about classic E1-3 routes)?

Thanks. I'll study Google Earth too and see what I can work out for myself.
johncoxmysteriously - on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Supercrack and Wonderwall are on opposite sides of a fairly narrow zawn. You'd be damned unlucky if they were both in the sun when you got there.

jcm
PeakDJ on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Fallen Block Zawn faces pretty much the same way as the "other bit" at Rhoscolyn, and is very sheltered from any breeze. We were there last week and while it was very hot it was perfectly climbable. Did a couple of routes then electric blue for a pretty perfect day...
CurlyStevo - on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:
I shouldn't worry summer is over.
Jon Stewart - on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to PeakDJ:
> (In reply to Jon Stewart)
>
> Fallen Block Zawn faces pretty much the same way as the "other bit" at Rhoscolyn, and is very sheltered from any breeze. We were there last week and while it was very hot it was perfectly climbable. Did a couple of routes then electric blue for a pretty perfect day...

Sounds awesome. I'd love to do Electric Blue, but I don't quite have the bottle for it yet. Would you say you want to be a solid E4 leader or more to solo it?
vertigo714 - on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart: The Wen slab is in the shade all morning I think? Some classics to be found there!
Jon Stewart - on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:
> (In reply to Jon Stewart)
> I shouldn't worry summer is over.

Is it though? I can't quite come to a decision on what to believe from the forecasts...I didn't head to N Wales today 'cause I was expecting thunder storms all afternoon. Never happened.
johncoxmysteriously - on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:

If it's anything like Freeborn Man then being an E2 leader will be fine, just so long as you're comfortable with a 40-foot drop into water.

jcm
PeakDJ on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> (In reply to PeakDJ)
> [...]
>
> Sounds awesome. I'd love to do Electric Blue, but I don't quite have the bottle for it yet. Would you say you want to be a solid E4 leader or more to solo it?

Not at all. The hard bit is low down, and it gets easier the higher you go. If You get half way you're probably very unlikely to fall from the top half! If I had to offer a french grade I'd say about F6b at the most. You'd probably want to be solid at E4 to lead it, but I reckon it's probably a lot easier to solo...

Oddly, it looks much less intimidating from the base of the route - much less steep and it's covered in jugs! I did it last week and I'm far from a steady E4 leader at the moment, although I do have a fair bit of sport fitness.

I've done a fair bit of DWSing in Thailand and Majorca, and this one is still my fave. Simply perfect. Really beautiful flowing moves and safe enough, although fluttery due to the height.
Andrew Wilson - on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to PeakDJ:

Well you've certainly got my palms sweating! Sounds great. Never DWS'd before but love rhoscolyn and would like to do this route. I think I can handle the potential lob into the water, have jumped similar cliffs for fun before. How is the landing? Is it er.. deep?
PeakDJ on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to Andrew Wilson:

Never tested it, but it looks VERY deep. I read some logbook comments about people doing victory jumps off the top, so it's got to be safe enough... enjoy!
Jon Stewart - on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to PeakDJ:
> (In reply to Andrew Wilson)
>
> I read some logbook comments about people doing victory jumps off the top

***k that!

PeakDJ on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> (In reply to PeakDJ)
> [...]
>
> ***k that!

Totally agee. Quite a buzz looking down from the top few metres - by that time the climbing is all of about 4b. Enjoy! if you happen to be there next week we'll be around Wednesday - Friday and I'd be quite keen to do it again it's so good...! If you do end up at Rhoscolyn, be sure to go for a pint at the White Eagle (and food if you fancy splashing out a bit) - great pub!
Andrew Wilson - on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to PeakDJ:
Haha. Cool, however I think I may now be a bit sensible for that. All that wet chalk and soggy boot palava. If I made it to the top I'd rather celebrate my victory in the White Eagle!
Dan Arkle - on 22 Jul 2013
I'd say that Electric Blue is a fairly ballsy solo for E3 climbers. I find the hardest move to be low down, when with anything but a massive tide, you potentially could hit the sloping rock that you start off. The other hard move at the apex of the arch is safe if you don't mind a reasonable fall, but the easier high up sections are a bit insecure and slopey, and well above my comfortable falling height.

Totally reccomended, but don't underestimate it.

Britomartis and Spider Wall don't get much sun until mid afternoon - or try Spider's Web if you really want to avoid it!
Jon Stewart - on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to Dan Arkle:
> I'd say that Electric Blue is a fairly ballsy solo for E3 climbers. I find the hardest move to be low down, when with anything but a massive tide, you potentially could hit the sloping rock that you start off. The other hard move at the apex of the arch is safe if you don't mind a reasonable fall, but the easier high up sections are a bit insecure and slopey, and well above my comfortable falling height.
>
> Totally reccomended, but don't underestimate it.

Cheers, good advice. It's the kind of thing I'm pretty sure I wouldn't fall off if I climbed it confidently, but it would just have to be the right day when I was 'feeling it'.

> Britomartis and Spider Wall don't get much sun until mid afternoon

Good shout. I'd like to do Bluebottle, which carries on over the arch and up - sounds to me like an unsung gem, missing out on classic status for no good reason (or perhaps I'll find out why?).

- or try Spider's Web if you really want to avoid it!

Hmmmmm.

Adam Moroz - on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Did britomartis and spider wall y'day, sun didn't come onto the face till around 2pmish.
Ed F - on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:

The more people do bluebottle the better it will become. When I did it last summer I took a huge swinging fall under the arch when a handhold and foothold snapped simultaneously...

Amazing line, amazing position but very dubious rock!

Britomartis wall and wen slab stay in the shade for the morning as does the right end of upper tier. North stack wall should be out of the sun late afternoon/evening I think. If you're after shade, you'd be guaranteed it if you got inside The Flytrap!
Jon Stewart - on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to Ed Feldman:
> (In reply to Jon Stewart)
>
> The more people do bluebottle the better it will become. When I did it last summer I took a huge swinging fall under the arch when a handhold and foothold snapped simultaneously...
>
> Amazing line, amazing position but very dubious rock!
>
> Britomartis wall and wen slab stay in the shade for the morning as does the right end of upper tier. North stack wall should be out of the sun late afternoon/evening I think. If you're after shade, you'd be guaranteed it if you got inside The Flytrap!

Cheers for that. Last year I was at Gogarth on one of the few very hot days and opted for the cool shade of the Flytrap. Jesus Christ, I am never going in there again. A bet it's a bit dryer this year though, so perhaps not quite as harrowing for those who choose to venture in - good luck to'em!
ads.ukclimbing.com
PeakDJ on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to Dan Arkle:
> The other hard move at the apex of the arch is safe if you don't mind a reasonable fall, but the easier high up sections are a bit insecure and slopey, and well above my comfortable falling height.
>
> Totally reccomended, but don't underestimate it.


Really? I think most people probably over-estimate it. I agree about the starting moves feeling a bit iffy due to the rock shelf, but once you commit to the move to the big spike it's all over deep water. You could always get someone to spot you and shove you out over the water if you came off the initial moves. I am definitely not that great on trad at the moment due to too much faffing about on bolts, but I thought compared with other DWS I've done it felt pretty safe, and the climbing is VERY steady and secure for the grade. Most of the holds on the upper section are huge jugs - I don't remember any slopey, insecure climbing at any great height and I did it for the second time last week in the baking sun, so it's fairly fresh in my mind.

If it was that necky for the "E3 leader" I'd have never done it twice.


This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.