/ Duct tape as trad gear

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Kemics - on 23 Jul 2013
I was recently talking with some Finnish friends while we made some repairs with duct tape. They said "in Finland we call Duct tape 'Jesus tape', because it can do miracles" we started joking about using it tape quick draws to bold climbs.

Later after a few more beers, we considered would this actually possible?

Ive seen pictures on the internets of unfortunate drunk people taped to ceilings..so it must have pretty good holding power.

Which rock type would it be most sticky to? Although granite is the roughest I was thinking something like slate would actually be the best because you'd get the most surface contact.

So given an unlimited supply of duct tape. How large and area would be required to create a bomber runner on a totally blank slab?

A reckon a couple of square meters might start registering in the 5-6kn range? ....
a crap climber - on 23 Jul 2013
In reply to Kemics:
They've done various test with duct tape on mythbusters that might shed some light on the holding power: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mythbusters
DNS on 23 Jul 2013
In reply to Kemics:

Are you Chris Tan in disguise?
jkarran - on 23 Jul 2013
In reply to Kemics:

On something smooth, clean, dry and non-porous like water worn granite with the right sort of convex slab to overhang transition feature guaranteeing it's loaded purely in shear rather than peeled I doubt you'd need more than a few meters. Maybe 10 meters of tape to make a body-weight anchor assuming you can get it all to equalize nicely. Test, reassess then scale up from there to 'bomber' :)

jk
scott quinn - on 23 Jul 2013
In reply to Kemics:

or...

nut key as a piton?

Helmet as a chock?

Feel free to test these :P
SteveoS - on 23 Jul 2013
In reply to Kemics:

I recall a few pictures of Andy KP (Maybe) with duct tape holding together a de-sheathed rope.

I guess it depends on whether the adhesive or the fabric in the tape fails first.

I'm thinking the best bet would be to make a sling/thread as I'd guess the attachment point is built in other than taping a QD to the wall.
GridNorth - on 23 Jul 2013
In reply to Kemics: There is a picture in a 70's climbing mag, Rocksport I think, showing someone holding small slings in place with tape. I think it may have been on Troach or something similar. It was definitely Cloggy.
Yanchik - on 23 Jul 2013
In reply to Kemics:

At a well-known aircraft manufacturer we used to know it as "thousand mile an hour tape."

Y

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