/ DMM peenuts.

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Malt_Loaf - on 23 Jul 2013
Hi,

I love my DMM Allow offsets and find their shape a great addition to my rack; the peenuts have a similar offset shape and are roughly 1/2 to 3 in wallnut sizes- it seems great to have the offset shape in smaller sizes too.

Are they worth getting?

ML.

P.S - thought about the brass offsets, but most of them are too small to be of much use to me these days.
CurlyStevo - on 23 Jul 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf:
the brass offsets are better and stronger, just buy the larger ones if you are not interested in the smaller ones, they continue down the sizes incrementally from the alloy offsets.
petellis - on 23 Jul 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf:

They are worthwhile. The sizes run into the alloy offsets to nicely make up a full set.

Lots of people rave about the brass offsets which essentially do the same thing and say that they are much better and fit more placements. But its arguable that the peanuts are more durable (they withstand being stripped from placements aggressively a bit better), if a little weaker in the smallest size.

I have peanuts and I never wish they were the brasses instead.
CurlyStevo - on 23 Jul 2013
In reply to petellis:
"The sizes run into the alloy offsets to nicely make up a full set"

Not sure I get what you mean there, the brass offsets run to one size smaller than the smallest alloy and smaller than the smallest peanut.
CurlyStevo - on 23 Jul 2013
In reply to petellis:
"if a little weaker in the smallest size."

Also if you compare each size for size the brass offsets are always stronger.
rug - on 23 Jul 2013
The question of relative strength becomes important if the weaker nuts are known for their breaking ...

So, do Peanuts fail often enough to make the extra strength of the brass offsets of greater importance than simply for extra peace of mind ?

Also, is there any difference in the likelihood of ripping ? I should have thought that similar sized and shapes wires made of different materials *could* have different characteristics in this regard.

Thanks for any answers.

Rug
Malt_Loaf - on 23 Jul 2013
In reply to rug: I guess the brass nuts being softer may have a little extra "bite" in marginal placements.

I don't think the relative strength matters; peenuts don't fail all the time surely?

Peenuts are a lot cheaper- 35 for fullset of 5.

ML.
victim of mathematics - on 23 Jul 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf:

I have both.

I never take the peenuts with me unless I think I'll need loads of small gear.
CurlyStevo - on 23 Jul 2013
In reply to rug:

I think falls gerneating over 4kn are quite common (DMM or WC posted an article about a 4kn nut breaking at burbage north from a fairly short fall a while back). I think anything over 8kn would hold anything but a large fall on a 80kg climber, I can't remember the exact stats but I think its well over factor 1.

I've heard that the brass alloy material micronuts are made of is actually more resistent to shearing than aluminium (but I don't have a good source for that).

I have a couple of peanuts but they never leave the house now a days.
Malt_Loaf - on 23 Jul 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf: Seems I may have to stretch my budget for some Brass Offsets then..
rug - on 23 Jul 2013
Thanks to CurlyStevo and VoM. Advice with numbers is easy to interpret (CS), and advice of the "I have this, it is the best" becomes useful only when the owner has both, but basically only uses one type most of the time (VoM).

Rug
CurlyStevo - on 23 Jul 2013
In reply to rug:
OK the nut that broke was 2kn
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/ae-microwire-failure

that really is no surprise as that's not much more than body weight of an 80 kg climber (if the climber sits on the rope goes through the gear and back down to the belayer).

from the article
" In fact in tests carried out by the BMC Technical Committee, it was found that in typical fall situations it was not difficult to generate forces between 6kN and 7kN on runners. "
ads.ukclimbing.com
petellis - on 24 Jul 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:

> Not sure I get what you mean there, the brass offsets run to one size smaller than the smallest alloy and smaller than the smallest peanut.

I've never noticed there being a gap in sizes between alloy offsets and peanuts, I appear to have a nice set of 10 offsets.... The OP says he isn't bothered about smaller sizes.

Yes - the brasses are stronger in most sizes. Assuming the biggest peanut=biggest brass then the peanuts go 8,8,5,5,4 KN as you go down the set and the brasses go 10,7,7,5,5 KN. Its the smallest size that is a problem. It never really worries me though, I can't think of an occasion if I'd taken a whipper I've have broken any of those and/or been in trouble as a result and I don't fear it happening in future.

The brasses are somehow much more lovely though!

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