UKC

hi All

After a little info on Zmutt ridge on Matterhorn, Does anyone know where the crux of the route is and the hardest climbing sections (Rough Difficulty grade) I know this can change dependant on conditions but a rough idea will help loads.

Thank you

Tommy

In reply to tscoobydoo:

I thought the crux was Carrel's Gallery (the traverse left to regain the ridge proper just below the top). I believe there may be some fixed gear there now - there was nothing when I did it. It had an old hollow sounding névé across most of it. I couldn't say what grade it was... somewhere around severe maybe? I used all my gear - a small friend, three or four small wires, and ice screw, a rock peg and some slings. All the rest of the route seemed straightforward but sustained. Worth noting, I only found one bit of fixed gear on the whole route - a peg somewhere near the teeth. My second left all the gear I placed on the Gallery in place for the team behind us to use. They left my peg in place!

In reply to jon: wasn't this 'equipped' by some Swiss guides sometime recently leading to quite a bit of controversy ?

In reply to Doug:

Well that's what I was referring to Doug, but I've no idea of the extent or of their equipping. Or indeed whether they really did call short their plans due to international pressure...? I suspect they did, but you never know!

Thanks Guys... Not too worried about what gear is in place, just wanted to know where the crux is and its difficulty, was looking at the idea of soloing it.. but wanted to know what to expect..

Thanks

Tommy

In reply to tscoobydoo:

Out of interest, let us know what gear you find when you've done it.

In reply to tscoobydoo: When I did it, Carrel's Gallery was an easy, totally non-serious plod across firm, well consolidated snow. Didn't need any gear at all.

I thought route-finding across the teeth was the greatest difficulty. Often you have to follow systems of ledges quite a way below the crest and there are scratches everywhere from people who went wrong. The ridge beyond the teeth is one of the most brilliant sections of Alpine climbing anywhere in a mind-blowing situation. The rock on the crest is pretty good, too. But never more than about III+. I wore crampons the whole way.

NB the slope up to the ridge just before the teeth is exposed and icy. Two tools would be better (I had only one).

In reply to davidoldfart:



That bears out exactly what I was told the evening before I did it by one of the guides at the hut.

In reply to jon:


That sounds quite a lot of gear for the infamous Tiefenmatten slabs. When I did it in 1971 Martin was unable to get a stance with the whole Penhall couloir open below, I led out a full rope's length and at one point my foot skidded off on a bit of grit. Finally managed to get a small nut in and bring him up. Like on the slabs of the N Ridge of the Dent Blanche, its lethal ground because its all sloping the wrong way as I remember it and liable to verglas. Rest of the route fine.

Thanks Guys... all very helpful information..

Kindest Regards

Tommy