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Topic - Training: Font 6C Boulderer to F7C/E5 Leader

Brian Pollock - on 24 Jul 2013
Like many on UKC, climbing has become a bit of an obsession and in the last year or so I have started to put a considerable amount of effort into improving.

Roughly, my ability/experience (in terms of grades) can be summed up as:

Indoor Sport - F7A (onsight)
Indoor/Outdoor Bouldering - Font 6Cish (worked but always attainable, pushing for Font 7A)
Trad - E1 (onsight)

Long story short, I have decided to put some effort into 'training' as opposed to just climbing. My goal is to go from the above to:

Sport - F6C (onsight)
Bouldering - F7B
Trad - E5

At present I boulder indoors roughly 3 nights a week for 2 hours at a time. I usually get 1-2 trad sessions in as well, one night midweek and/or one day at the weekend. I also usually get one outdoor bouldering session per week. So I'm climbing roughly 4-6 days per week.

I'm now experimenting with adding on 1.5-2hrs of sport routes after boulder sessions, climbing 7A and above (mostly onsight tactics, climbing until failure). Also redpointing 7B.

My question is, will this result in the gains I'm after if I continue with my current regime as is or should I be approaching training in a more structured way.

Essentially, recommend me a training plan to go from a Font 6C Boulderer with crap endurance/ power endurance to an all round Font 7B Boulderer who can also onsight F7C and E5.

Also, is this realistic?

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