I am considering a trip out to Zermatt in early to mid september to have a go at the Matterhorn, Lyskamm, Dufourspitze and others (in summer conditions).
I realise that this time of year can be pretty transitional and unpredictable with the Foehn wind, but have any of you that have been out there at this time have any advice? What kind of conditions did you encounter etc?
In reply to willbris3: It can be great: settled, still-warm weather. Ot it can be dreadful: snow and storms. It's just a matter of luck, and at this stage, it's impossible to predict. In general, early September is often better than later.
> I realise that this time of year can be pretty transitional and unpredictable with the Foehn wind
Well no, not really. A föhn is simply the generic name for a warm wind caused by the rapid warming of dry air after it has lost all or most of its moisture in the mountains. Typically, unstable weather on the south side of the mountains, for instance, produces a strong warm southerly wind in the valleys to the north - and vice versa. It's not a function of the season - it can happen at all times of the year and is no more frequent or infrequent in September. Transitional...? Well there can certainly be storms that put down snow in fairly large quantities, but this doesn't mean a transition to winter (if that's what you mean). Normally these will clear and we'll have fine weather/Indian summer well into October/November. Like this, for instance: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=185416
As David says, September can be wonderful - or not! The snow/glaciers can be dirty and grey/dry by then but this can also be have the advantage of making previously hidden crevasses open and obvious. I actually prefer this time of the year as it is much quieter and less of a circus than during the 'season' of July/August. I've done all the peaks you mention towards the end of September with no problem at all.
Occasionally into October, but I've normally had enough of mountains by then! Certainly no reason not to... well apart from lifts and huts being closed. I did take a fabulous scenic (birthday) flight around all the glaciers in the massif at the end of September two years ago - there was simply no-one around!
In reply to willbris3: September snow can be very slow to clear. I remember trying an ascent of a big rock ridge in the Ecrins after a fall of snow late in the month. The weather was gorgeous, but we gave up after finding we were wading through waste deep powder on what should have been easy (c. III-IV) slabby rock. In general higher north facing rock routes will not clear at all after snow this late, at least not enough to be doable as rock climbs.
I would not worry - for the easy 4000s in Saas and Zermatt I've gone at the end of September and first two weeks of October with no problems.
It should still be very warm, snow showers possible (as will be all year round) but I found it perfect time of year to go... (recommend checking the lift schedules before you decide - occasionally maintenance happens this sort of time).
