/ Chamonix conditions: Diable ridge and Dent de Geant
Wondering if anyone has info on the current conditions for either the Diable Ridge, or the Dent de Geant?
Are they currently climbable without crampons?
Hi Anna, I am in Sheffield at the moment rather than Chamonix but there was a good update on the OHM site on the 23rd http://www.ohm-chamonix.com/info-montagne-conditions-montagne-11100000.html#jp1
Diable Ridge and Dent de Geant have both been done lots in recent days and I am sure the rock will be dry. It is due to get much warmer in the coming days so the snow will go to slush pretty quick. Feel free to email me through the site for a bit more beta.
How are your 4000ers going, Anna?
of course crampons are needed for approach and descent...i was wondering about the rock climbing ridge section :S !!
Jon: we are having a really fun time! we have managed 34 peaks so far , including a few tricky ones- weisshorn, taschorn, matterhorn, but it has been a humbling experience!
Brilliant! Keep going!
we have been keeping a blog with some photos and stories! :
To be fair John, a bit more than a start!
As I remember it was 82, so she's almost half way there. If she wanted to do the Blodigs then she's over half way. And not even August yet! I do hope she continues. It'd be so easy (and so tempting) to say 'stuff it, I'm too tired'! What an incredible coup it'd be. Maybe a week's rest is in order to re-charge...
Yes, a very impressive effort.
I'm not sure I could carry on doing peak after peak like that, though at the moment I certainly feel deprived of the Alps. Lets hope she has good luck in her efforts.
Now we've decided to go home :P Happy but tired! I guess its the "psychological burnout" that people mentioned. But when it stops feeling "fun" (and all the snow slopes feel the same!), i think the point of it dissapears as well! it seems more valuable to come back and build happy memories over the years than this feeling of "getting them done"!
but its been super! i think it was okay to come with such a big , maybe naive, ambition because it drove us to do so much. less than a year since my first time in the alps, its been quite an apprenticeship.
With a slow start in june and just 4 peaks, in july we managed a further 34, including the 10 highest, and most importantly, had a brilliant time.
A lot of Munro baggers have the "getting them done" attitude and end up missing out on some gems of adjoining hills and tops.
Better to leave some for another time ,and have something to look forward to.
34 in a month is impressive.
don't think I could charge up little old 3000ft Ben More 34 times in a month.
"The mountains will still be there next year, the trick is to ensure that you are"
It is always possible to suffer from burn-out when on a route, then you often have no choice but to continue. But for an extended series, it is very dangerous to push on when either physically or mentally it does not feel right. Some of the remaining peaks would have put you into some very remote and serious terrain, and being half-committed would not have been good enough. Knowing when to "climb down gracefully" is one of the most important Alpine skills, I have very often retreated, mostly in good order, but sometimes not so much.
You will have some tremendous memories and greatly enhanced Alpine skills and awareness as a result of this Summer.
Thank you to everyone for the really nice comments:)
We did not do either of the Diable ridge or Dent de Geant; when we went up to do Mont Blanc from augille di midi, there was a lot of fresh snow , maybe as much as 30cm. we got a good view of the ridge and it looked quite snowy so we decided to give it a miss. Apparently it has been recently re-equipped , and is now possible with a 50m rope.
The list of peaks we did are, in order, (spelling might be dodgy as im going from memory!)
Bishorn, Allalinhorn, Weissmiss, Lagginhorn, Dom de Neige, Barre de Ecrins, Grand Paradiso, Durihorn, Hohbarghorn, Stecknadelhorn, Nadelhorn, Breithorn x5 tops, Pollux, Castor, Liskam x2 tops, Pyramid Vincent, Punta Giordani, Corneo nero, ludwigshohe, parrotspitze, signalkuppe, lumsteinspitze, dufordspitze, nordend, dom, matterhorn, weisshorn, alphubel, taschorn, mont blanc, mont blanc de courmeyer, mont maudit, mont blanc de tacul
We tried to get on the Diable this morning, but early snowfall and high winds made us (and three other parties) turn around at the shrund. We still saw some headlamps at the bottom of Pointe Médiane. Supposedly, it was in great condition yesterday.
It has been re-equipped recently (summer '13): full bolted anchors designed for a single 50m rope.
(Or as close to it as is now possible)
Absolutely. Pathetic really.
But good effort Anna!
If it's only the abseil anchors, it's no big problem. It wasn't like they were that complicated.
There are bolts in the GJ traverse just before the Canzio hut, too.
> There are bolts in the GJ traverse just before the Canzio hut, too.
And that is equally unnecessary and inexcusable. I find it sad that there are people on here accepting or justifying these sort of bolts.
In my opinion a tidy abseil line with bolts is much more acceptable than loads of tat here and there. There isn't much difference with tat anchors and bolt anchors. In both cases you'll leave a trace.
Usually the ones with tat have abandoned stuck ropes behind flakes, too.
This is Rob's cue to rant about the Petites Jorasses!
> In my opinion a tidy abseil line with bolts is much more acceptable than loads of tat here and there. There isn't much difference with tat anchors and bolt anchors.
Tat can and shopld be tidied up.
Bolts do not exploit natural weaknesses in the rock. All other anchors do. The distinction and principle is obvious and crucial; a world of difference.
Don't agree with that, on Alpine routes there certainly seems to be a "slippery slope" effect (even if the fixed gear is supposed to stop you slipping), some is already there, so why not add more "to improve it or make it safer". So it is never just abseil anchors, especially where guides are out to domesticate a route for their own convenience.
Presumably on the descent from the Rochefort arette. What on earth are they supposed to be needed for?
Alexandre- Oops. It seems you accidentally sent this thread off topic!
Anna - I'd like to add my voice to the well dones! I am so impressed with what you have achieved. You must have experienced so much along the way - I look forward to reading about your adventures.
Posting a message saying "bolts" in a British forum is akin to throwing a cat in the middle of a pack of angry dogs: fun to watch, but you'd better get out quickly yourself!
Elsewhere on the site
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more
On Sunday 12th October the Depot Climbing Centre Leeds held its 5th annual Battle of Britain competition. The competition has... Read more
The B.D.V. — short for Black Diamond Vertical — jacket and pants are Black Diamond’s most versatile climbing... Read more
Aiming at designing and producing the best belay glasses to protect climbers’ necks, Y&Y focuses on every detail to... Read more
Last year, Finn McCann wrote an article about climbing El Capitan with his terminally ill father Seamus, who had been... Read more