/ Top Ten Mountain E3's in Scotland

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Robert Durran - on 28 Jul 2013
Having just returned buzzing from a bit of a tour......
In no particular order:

Sumo (Beinn Eighe)
The Harp (Shelter Stone)
Uhuru (Sron na Ciche)
Enigma (Sron na Ciche)
Titan's wall (Ben Nevis)
Temple of Doom (Church Door)
Cougar (Dubh Loch) - if it hadn't fallen down.....
Black Spout wall (Lochnagar)

So what have I missed? I'd rather, for the sake of variety, not include a couple more from the East Buttress of Sron na Ciche!

Adam Lincoln - on 28 Jul 2013
In reply to Robert Durran:

Damn it, with all this rain i've missed my chance!
Andy Moles - on 28 Jul 2013
In reply to Robert Durran:

You're going to have to remove Cougar, because it HAS fallen down ;)

The only possible contender I've done is Dream Ticket, but others I'd suggest would be The Big Lick, Crocodile, Fian Grooves, Haystack, Kingpin and Skydiver.
Rick Graham on 28 Jul 2013
In reply to Robert Durran:

Shame its limited to ten.

Kingpin, Haystack and Freakout should be in consideration.
Robert Durran - on 28 Jul 2013
In reply to Andy Moles and Rick Graham:

Considered Haystack, but rejected it on the (perhaps dubious) grounds that it's not quite of Steeple quality (and might not really be E3 anyway?).

Did Fian Grooves a couple of weeks ago and thought the SMC's ** was more accuraste than GL's **** - brilliant first E2 pitch, but the third E3 pitch is a bit "nasty"!

Kingpin: having backed off and then fallen off the "nasty" (and damp!) first pitch on consecutive days last week my judgment might not be impartial, but can a route whose main difficulties are this groove and an awkward, greasy chimney really make the grade? Extreme Rock bias? The neighbouring Temple of Doom is a far finer looking line and could singlehandedly justify the Scottish **** system - two utterly brilliant and well balanced E3 pitches; a contender for the best route I've ever done!

Crocodile is very good, but that good? Certainly not as good as Freakout, but that is E4 anyway!

Not done Skydiver or Big Lick........
Andy Moles - on 28 Jul 2013
In reply to Robert Durran:

Interesting, I now know what's top of the list when I get around to visiting Church Door Buttress, thanks for that :)

Sounds like you had quite a road trip.
Robert Durran - on 28 Jul 2013
In reply to Andy Moles:
> (In reply to Robert Durran)
>
> Interesting, I now know what's top of the list when I get around to visiting Church Door Buttress, thanks for that :)

Amazing crag, but tricky conditions - the seepage dries in the evening sun, but then restarts overnight. Best given several days to dry out.

> Sounds like you had quite a road trip.

Yes, though only Sumo, Black Spout wall and Temple of Doom from my list were done on this trip! I see you were on Beinn Eighe last weekend (I was there a week before and then again just after you); put Sumo on your hitlist - with two contrasting but phenomenal pitches, it's another contender for the best route in the world......
Rick Graham on 28 Jul 2013
In reply to Robert Durran:
Haystack. Ok off this list but Steeple for top ten E2 s.

Kingpin and Temple of Doom. Agreed. Kingpin very good but ToD sounds better.
We did/tried them the same day but abbed off after first pitch of Tod because got lost on P2. I remember Graeme+co having the same problem on their on sight first ascent attempt. Must carry a description and not follow our noses. This has also caused a lot of bother the last month, but I digress.

Freakout. Better(just)and easier than Titans Wall. (Climbed on consecutive days)
Michael Gordon - on 02 Aug 2013
In reply to Robert Durran:

Great thread, very inspiring! Pity I can't contribute as Haystack doesn't quite cut it difficulty-wise and The Harp (start of guidebook pitch 2) was wet when we went to try it. How long do you think it needs to dry?

Tried Lost Arrow or Last Crusade? The former sounds like a belter.

So Black Spout Wall well worth it. I got the impression it wasn't that clean?

Dangerous Dave - on 02 Aug 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon: black spout has had at least 6 ascents this summer so should be pretty clean.
Michael Gordon - on 02 Aug 2013
In reply to Dangerous Dave: cool, thanks
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d conacher - on 02 Aug 2013
In reply to Robert Durran: oh i do love these threads,does pinch direct count as mountain route,hope you gave temple of doom a good brushing on the way up robert

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