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Moving to South Birmingham: Redpoint or Creation?

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moscoworbust 29 Jul 2013
Hi,

I'm moving from Guildford to South Birmingham to start a job after finishing my PhD.

I've seen there are two main indoor walls to join, Redpoint and Creation.

Any advice on which? I've learned a bit from the internet reviews, summed up below:

Redpoint:

Bad:
Expensive 50 per month
Small
North Birmingham so further away
Not many overhanging leads

Good:
Regularly change routes
Stalactites
Good bouldering routes

Creation

Bad:
Cold
Old routes
Not regularly changed routes

Good:
Enormous
Cheap : 32 a month!

Can anyone add to this? Recommend anything?

The internet seems to like Redpoint more, but most of the reviews are from mums having fun at kids parties. Although most reviews say that creation are lazy and don't change routes, etc...

I'll mainly be bouldering. Until I can find a partner.

I'll visit both but would like to hear what you say.



 AJM 29 Jul 2013
In reply to moscoworbust:

Based on my minimal experience I quite like creation, good selection of lead walls, never tried the set bouldering but they do have a good looking board setup. The other one to think about is maybe Birmingham Bouldering Centre by Snow Hill station. Nice problems. Only go to either infrequently so don't know how either works for more regular use.
moscoworbust 29 Jul 2013
In reply to AJM:

Thanks for the advice.

42 quid a month for just bouldering at Birmingham Bouldering Centre is ridiculous. I might pop in for the odd session though.
 BIG BAD JOHN 29 Jul 2013
In reply to moscoworbust: Redpoint. Friendly, knowledgeable staff; great cakes; good, testing bouldering routes. Will get back if I think of anything else after my visit tomorrow.
 Duncan Bourne 29 Jul 2013
In reply to moscoworbust:
And expression of interest here I know Phil Minal quite well so may be I am biased. Having said that Redpoint has always seemed very friendly, though the cafe area is small, good shop. The routes always seem very well set to me not soft touches but always interesting and requiring a bit of thought to overcome and not just reach, also consistent through out (I hate routes that are a series of easy moves and just one long reachy crux). Being small (relatively) does mean that routes are may be limited in number, however there are quite a few roof problems and arches problems and they make good use of the space. As I don't boulder much at lead walls I can't really comment on their bouldering problems but they do have two bouldering rooms.
No car park but I have never had a problem parking on the surrounding streets.
 Neil D 29 Jul 2013
In reply to moscoworbust:

Always redpoint.
 John 1804 29 Jul 2013
Im extremely biased as I climb at redpoint regularly.
That being said id definitely suggest a trip to each centre so you can cast a first hand view on things.
moscoworbust 30 Jul 2013
In reply to moscoworbust:

a lot of people like redpoint. as expected.

I guess size doesn't matter.
 mhawk 30 Jul 2013
In reply to moscoworbust: I live in south Birmingham and am happy to travel the extra distance to Boulder Central, amazing bouldering wall. For roped climbing its always redpoint. Been to creation three times now, I don't really rate the place myself, for the reasons you've highlighted.
 Neil Williams 30 Jul 2013
In reply to moscoworbust:

I think Redpoint is excellent. Good routes, and bouldering that makes you think about the moves rather than just having to be a monkey with 20" forearms.

Neil
moscoworbust 30 Jul 2013
In reply to mhawk:

Ah thanks. I missed boulder central.

But these guys want even more, £50 for a month when all you can do it boulder.

They are obviously on some drugs.

I guess the best is to join Redpoint. Then go to Boulder central for the odd evening bouldering.
 Timmd 30 Jul 2013
In reply to moscoworbust: £600 a year??

Good lord.
 Brumbler 30 Jul 2013
In reply to moscoworbust:

Close, roped climbing at Redpoint, and bouldering at Birmingham Boulder Centre. Much closer than Boulder Central and personally I think far better.
 John_Hat 30 Jul 2013
In reply to moscoworbust:

Redpoint, no question.

Redpoint - a really good wall with great routes and friendly welcoming staff (and good food and tea).

Creation, who once required biometrics and installed a fingerprint scanner to get in the door. Now thankfully removed as, surprise surprise, it didn't work very well with climbers.
In reply to moscoworbust: I've only climbed at Creation, never felt the urge to travel to Red Point. Once i've got passed the BMX riders, there are so many routes, big routes, that it doesn't matter if they don't reset them that often! Yes it gets cold in the winter but, i just lob on some gloves between climbs and it's just like a December day cragging in the Peaks.

 Timmd 30 Jul 2013
In reply to mcphillipsa391: Kind of like an indoor crag?
 Misha 31 Jul 2013
In reply to moscoworbust:
I don't go to Redpoint often as our club's (Solihull MC) weekly indoor session is at Creation and given the number of people we sometimes have Redpoint would get too crowded. But based on an occasional visit Redpoint seems to have more interesting routes. Does it matter though? What you want from a wall is stuff that will push your physical ability. It's nice to have interesting routes but not essential. Also the bouldering at Redpoint is poor I think - too many routes squeezed in and not high enough. BBC and Creation are much better for bouldering. You're welcome to join us at Creation on a Tuesday evening from about 7.30pm. We have a few people climbing at your level. www.solihullmc.org.uk
In reply to moscoworbust:

I alternate between Redpoint and Creation and, if you can do that, I think it is best. A couple of years back I would have said Redpoint was much better than Creation but the gap has narrowed and you can't beat having a much bigger choice of routes by going to two walls.
moscoworbust 01 Aug 2013
In reply to moscoworbust:

OK,

Seems like some mixed reviews.

I'll have to go to both.

I'm looking forward to it, plus trying out the two bouldering centres.

I need to find a partner so that may sway my decision.
 mhawk 01 Aug 2013
In reply to moscoworbust: The misses and I are heading to creation on the 13th August to meet up with Solihull mountaineering group (check with misha), I'm sure they could cope with three newbies if you were to come along.
 BIG BAD JOHN 01 Aug 2013
In reply to moscoworbust: Not just great cakes at Redpoint now, but delicious hot snacks. Had curried parsnip soup on Tuesday, really delighted the taste buds. Seemed to be lots of new members, just joined there this week, and the place was really buzzing, great atmosphere, really inspired me. The choice is yours, but I would choose Redpoint everytime. You can put your name on the notice board for a partner, which would satisfy your other criteria.

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