UKC

Desperate looking E10 'pinky mono' project gets climbed by Franco Cookson on the North York Moors.

Full details and awesome photos...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68260

In reply
More banter here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=558648

In reply to UKC News: Looks awesome, good job Franco!

Well done Franco. Are you a fan of Psykovsky then? Bit on the mad side for me though I did see him play at 4am once

In reply to Stone Muppet: haha! excellent! I'm not sure. It's deeply disturbing music. I'm really into my trance, but psykovsky is a bit insane really. There's something quite incredible about the a-tonalness. It would be great to see him live, bet you felt psychotic. The route really reminded me of it - hence the name.

In reply to UKC News:

Sorry I'm a bit confused - is this just a laugh or is meant to be a serious newsflash?

Polish Pete

In reply to Steve Crowe:

Yeah, but what has he ever done on grit….etc

:oD

In reply to UKC News: Well done Franco. Seems like now you might be in good enough shape to get up Post Mortem on Eagle Crag Borrowdale after your failure a few years back.. Stick at it.

In reply to USBRIT:
The old ones are the best.

Regards and respect,

Rick

In reply to USBRIT:

My mate who was onsighting up to E6 at the time slipped and fell off the VD start common with Swimmer's Chimney when trying Brightside. His partner, another extreme leader, laughed oh so hard and then slipped off it as well. I don't see the transferable skills between overhanging dirty offwidths and steep walls on small monos... I do see the delight in sandbagging people with some impressive ticks to remind them that they may have breezed routes at that grade but they are not fully rounded at the grade in all styles.

In reply to Offwidth:

Exactly.

Its all about the footwork, body positioning, and knowing whether to push or pull hard.

Its probably because most people are not "rounded" that we get so much grade controversy.

In reply to UKC News:

From the horses mouth:

http://www.climbmagazine.com/news/2013/08/cookson-climbs-moors-testpiece

You've given Psykovsky's Sequins a grade of E10 7a, those are big numbers, what was the reasoning behind that grade?

"Mainly to wind people up and lay down the gauntlet! I honestly have no idea how hard it is"

In reply to Offwidth:

Adam Ondra is on public record falling off a 6A at Bas Cuvier.

And that was last year, so rather more "relevant" than Mr Brit's snide comment about something Fraco couldn't do years ago, thus apparently ruling out the possibility that he might conceivably have worked hard and become better at climbing in the intervening period. As most people don't but some people do.

How long was it between Jerry and Andy Pollitt famously frigging their way up Void, to them being undisputedly two of the best rock climbers in the world? Two or three years, perhaps?

In reply to Franco Cookson:


effort youth...

In reply to UKC News: I was only kidding the lad ...he has plenty of company who did not do well on this nasty crack such as Whillans ,Al Manson and I believe Fawcett and others.Franco allowed me to use the photo of his attempt at the crux to use on mountainproject.com.A nice gesture.I hope his new route gives the top guys some food for thought.

In reply to AlanLittle:

Chill out a bit, some of us over here have a sense of humour

In reply to Rick Graham:

Oops, sorry. Hard to tell the difference on t'internet between good-humoured pisstaking and snide.