/ NEWS: FRI NI VID: James McHaffie - The Meltdown - 9a First Ascent

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UKC News - on 02 Aug 2013
James McHaffie on The Meltdown - 9a , 4 kbIt's Adam Hocking's excellent film featuring James McHaffie on his super slab The Meltdown (9a!).

If you are wondering what a 9a slab looks like, then watch this video...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68261

Jonathan Emett - on 02 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News:
nice film adam!
Mr. K - on 02 Aug 2013
Nicely put together film Adam. And a good choice of music, I like a little bit of Pretty Lights. Bo)
GuyVG - on 02 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News: great film of a brilliant piece of history, thanks for uploading
stevemarkperry - on 02 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Brilliant video, brilliant climbing. Thanks for sharing.
becauseitsthere - on 02 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Great climbing by McHaf. Well done. Dawes enthusiasm really shines through in that interview.
martinph78 on 03 Aug 2013
In reply to becauseitsthere: Looks great, where is it (can't find it in the logbooks)?

Regarding the video, I liked it, but wasn't keen on the text, it appeared to slowly and could maybe be better positioned? Not a criticism, as I say, I enjoyed the video.
Mick Ward - on 03 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Superb video. Stunning talent... on the rock and off it.

Mick
James Oswald - on 04 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News:
Ace video.

I like the bit where James has to lift his foot up to put it on the hold, nice to see everyone has to do that sometimes :)
cb_6 - on 04 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News: Call me an ignoramus but I didn't even realise there were slabs at that grade. Really nice video and very impressive looking climb.
idiotproof (Buxton MC) - on 04 Aug 2013
In reply to James Oswald:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> Ace video.
>
> I like the bit where James has to lift his foot up to put it on the hold

I did that in font and ended up pulling a muscle in my arm...really smarted

ehole - on 04 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News: great video, nice one Adam!
Boogs on 04 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News:

High quality video and edit , exceptional route very inspiring stuff superb work and effort by all involved .
allycat on 05 Aug 2013
In reply to James Oswald:
Great short film!
Yeah the aided foot lift was pretty impressive, instead of straining myself next time will defo try that move. Wonder if it will help me climb any faster?!
Skyfall - on 05 Aug 2013
In reply to allycat:

> Yeah the aided foot lift was pretty impressive

I do it a fair bit despite being fairly flexible. Sometimes you just need to get that foot a bit higher than it wants to go of its own accord...
lummox - on 05 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News: Great little film !
Nic on 05 Aug 2013
In reply to James Oswald:

+1, I was thinking exactly the same at that point!
martinph78 on 05 Aug 2013
In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat: thanks.
Wiley Coyote - on 05 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Has the video been taken down? I'm just getting a blank black square on the page?
ads.ukclimbing.com
Ramblin dave - on 06 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News:
Awesome stuff!

Two thoughts:
i) It'd be interesting to see what visiting euro-wads made of this - not that it'd shut everyone down, but it seems like quite a unique style of climbing and a long way from euro-limestone or granite.
ii) Did anyone else find it funny that Johnny spends the first half of the video talking about how you have to deal with the small and weirdly positioned holds by feeling for the dynamic momentum and moving with the natural rhythm of the climb etc etc etc and the second half of the video seems to show Caff demonstrating that you can also deal with the small and weirdly positioned holds by having super-hench fingers and precise technique? Not forgetting that we're talking about super-wads here, and that Johnny at his peak (and these days, come to that) was still bloody strong and Caff is still flowing and dynamic in a way that most of us can only dream of, the contrast in styles is quite interesting.
pasbury on 12 Aug 2013
In reply to Ramblin dave:
> (In reply to UKC News)

> ii) Did anyone else find it funny that Johnny spends the first half of the video talking about how you have to deal with the small and weirdly positioned holds by feeling for the dynamic momentum and moving with the natural rhythm of the climb etc etc etc and the second half of the video seems to show Caff demonstrating that you can also deal with the small and weirdly positioned holds by having super-hench fingers and precise technique? Not forgetting that we're talking about super-wads here, and that Johnny at his peak (and these days, come to that) was still bloody strong and Caff is still flowing and dynamic in a way that most of us can only dream of, the contrast in styles is quite interesting.

I've just watched it and I reckon Caff is using some awesome body tension, precision gripping and dynamic changes of balance just as Dawes did.

Great little film - Dawes is still a great enthusiast and I find that inspiring.


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