UKC

Preuss ridge - Aiguille Savoie

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
cariva 02 Aug 2013
Got a last minute invitation to try this climb, which I did not know anything about.
Could anyone tell me a little bit about it? how hard is it? is route finding obvious enough? what about coming down? approach?
At this point, any tip would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Gone for good 02 Aug 2013
In reply to cariva:
Some good info on Summit post - 800 metre graded D

http://www.summitpost.org/aiguille-savoie/153117
 funalps 02 Aug 2013
In reply to cariva:

There is a description in Giovanni Bassanini's " Monte Bianco Le Classiche" published by CDA Vivaldi (No.29) AD+, 4c 400m, circa 16 pitches. Very remote. Descent by the normal route, (N ridge,) or abseil down one of the modern routes on the main face.

Meant to be brilliant. If you do it I would love a description for the camptocamp.org website.

Good luck
 David Rose 03 Aug 2013
In reply to cariva: In the last 15 years or so the area around the Dalmazzi hut, where you would spend the night, has become a major venue for Alpine rock-climbing on perfect granite. There are many routes of between 200 and 750m, from long VSs to much harder offerings. The Savoie and its Preuss route lie at the back of all this. I wouldn't really call the mountain remote, but there is plenty to go at closer to the hut. The AC guide contains barely a hint of all this. It's the Italian equivalent of the Envers des Aiguilles.
 funalps 04 Aug 2013
In reply to davidoldfart: On reflection, I agree "very remote" is hardly a valid description for a route in "Disneyalp". Nonetheless, the Preuss route should be a lot quieter than most of the other 190 routes in the funalps.com "Happy Alpine" selected list.
cariva 09 Aug 2013
In reply to cagm:
Just came back! It was awesome! Longer than I thought it would be. As you said, very remote may be a little too much, but it was very quiet indeed. The only thing I do not agree with the route description is the IV+ max...There is one very pitch(the first vertical one near the summit) which I even thought it to be something like F6A...Later I tried to re-evaluate it again(considering I am not a world-class climber) and thought it could not be easier than a full V (again, IMHO).
I will p.m. you to see if I can come up with a description of any kind.
Thank you all for the inputs!
Cheers

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...