UKC

Hi.

Im looking at the Fleche Rousse (AD) on the Argentiere with a mate for around 10th Sept (weather dept.)

After researching the route etc it seems a few differing viewpoints on the (whats noted as - hard rock section). Apparently its short but some say UIAA III others say 5a. Im just trying to get a picture of this section converted to UK, I take it to be VS4b is based on the photos and youtube I have seen. A couple of cams and some nuts hopefully? Anyone been on there?

Im only asking as its well into the route so im just trying to build a picture. Can this section be skirted? (I think its up to the actual Flech Rousse high point) as apparently there is a short ab after this. - note: we have plenty of AD+ under our belt.

Any beta on Fleche Rousse appriciated. Our other options are Y Couloir or Normale'

Cheers!

James.

Hi James,

I did it two years ago. Here's a good description of what to expect (http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54492/en/aiguille-d-argentiere-arete-de-fl...

Keep in mind " After going round a pinnacle (on the Saleina side) climb a mixed outcrop and come to a large shoulder. Don’t be tempted to contour the imposing outcrop on the right, instead go down a daunting gully the Améthystes side for 20m, then ascend a steep, slanting chimney opposite, (cairns, 30m 4b, friable rock) on the SE face."

We went right and ended up in a section where the rock quality was very poor. We did make it to the top eventually.

Good luck,

Patrik

In reply to Patrik:

Hi Patrik and thanks for your reply. Yes I have seen that guide, will take note of what you have said. So I guess you avoided the rock section by going right. Did you manage to stick to the guide time and do-able on a single 50?

Thanks.

James.

Hi James,

Yes, correct. At the time, and looking down to the gully, it didn't appear the right way. Going right, we first went over a snow field (not very big as I recall) and then up what looked like steps. This is where the rock quality was very poor, however it wasn't a major problem going up.

From what I remember, we set off at around 4.30-5.00am, made it to the top at around 9am. I climbed with a local guide who hadn't done the route before and there was another party of 2 going up at the same time.

In reply to JamesM:

The route was in good condition over the last two weeks (I've done it twice)but is getting dry very quickly. I think it needs more snow now (which it will be getting at the moment).
There are so many variations it is hard to be precise but there is a pitch of VSish on the gendarme before the Fleche Rousse but you can avoid this.
The Fleche Rousse itself has a nice mixed pitch and steep but easy finish. Thought it was easier than VS. All in all a standard AD route and easy for Chamonix where they can be a bit harder.
Great hut also with lots of rock climbing around.
Lastly, the descent has to be in good condition or you could be stuffed.

Tim

In reply to tim blakemore:

Thanks Pat and Tim. Will take note of what you have both said for when were out there in Sept. Will take all usual precautions, OHM check, chat to Guardian at hut etc.

Thanks guys.

In reply to JamesM:

Hello,
We did this route last week 14th, was a great day out. We were not sure we got the correct gully to desend before the steep chimney. We found the gully to be totaly dry but ok, we then found a sort of chimney at about 4a-c ish, possibly UK (Severe)the rocks lovely also which brought us back to the ridge.
Descend down the Millau glacier was fine, would not like to be be there after midday tho. At the tounge of the glaciar head back to the hut then down on to the argentire glacier, not straight down over the moraine onto the glacier this is not a short cut to the lifts!

Hope that helps
Rob